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Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A


Wolf Buddee

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4 hours ago, BiggTim said:

I would never dare put something like that on my model until it was painted and completely done. I would break that thing off if I farted too close to it or even looked at it wrong.

Hey Tim, LOL!
 

Normally I wouldn’t add anything like that until the end either but the photo etch piece is quite sturdy. To add it to the rudder post I whittled away half the width off the top of the rudder post. I then ca’d the hook in place and built up the rudder post width with the ca and restore it to it’s original width. That little hook is rock solid!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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3 hours ago, brahman104 said:

Brilliant Wolf! I love the little cable running through the cowl flap pulleys! I wish I could get paint to apply as smoothly as you do!

 

Craig

Thanks Craig, always a pleasure hearing from you.

 

The cable was really easy. I fed the fishing line through all the pulley assemblies, glued one end with Ca then pulled the line tight. I glued the loose end with Ca as well, trimmed the end, then painted the line with Mr. Metallizer Stainless Steel. Easy peasy!
 

I wish I could do what you’re doing with your B-17 build! I can only marvel at what you’ve accomplished so far. :o

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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1 hour ago, Wolf Buddee said:

Hey Tim, LOL!
 

Normally I wouldn’t add anything like that until the end either but the photo etch piece is quite sturdy. To add it to the rudder post I whittled away half the width off the top of the rudder post. I then ca’d the hook in place and built up the rudder post width with the ca and restore it to it’s original width. That little hook is rock solid!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Doesn't matter, I would still break it off, again, and again, and again....

 

I broke the antennae post off the D-13 four times before I just left it off and glued it back on at the end. The little short flaps on the Stuka I'm doing have been snapped off at least 4x each, so I left them off now as well. Even lost one of them and had to order a replacement sprue. I will probably lose the other one before the sprue gets here. I am a bull in china shop, buddy. I learned to scratch build just so I could replace all the S*** that I lose.

 

I'm such a clutz that my epitaph will be" Thump...OOOWWWW....&%$#@!*&!!"

Edited by BiggTim
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On 4/10/2020 at 12:48 AM, Wolf Buddee said:

Hi Craig,

 

Thank-you my friend. No, no photo etch on the front. Because the lamps face at a downward angle you actually can’t see the front face of the lamp when viewing down in to the cockpit. The black line towards the front of the lamp is my best effort at replicating the knurled portion of the lamp. For that I used Archer Fine Transfer micro weld bead. Making one of the lamps was fun. Making four of ‘em, all exactly the same, was a PITA!

 

The kit unfortunately doesn’t come with any representation of the six Brownings. Hence the need to make up something rather than just having a void in the openings.

 

Thanks for the compliment regarding the cockpit. Tamiya really have to be given a great deal of credit. Their Corsair kits are incredibly detailed from nose to tail straight OOB and we are very lucky indeed to have them produce such a model. Basically I’m guilting the lily with my extras. 

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

I’ve been stumped with figuring out a way to replicate a knurled surround and there you go and come up with the solution! Great work Wolf!

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That is some nice modelling, Wolf.  You must have a Parts Catalog.

 

'RB Productions rivet wheel was very instrumental in accomplishing that.'

Which did you use?  What do you think of the RB tools' spacing and imprint tie-in to Tamiyas riveting?

 

The detail on those flaps are incredible.

 

I know drilling that .009 hole for 2 lb mono was testy.  Out of alignment, a little too much pressure, not to mention the angles you had to drill.  That's an easy snap.

 

Corsair_37.jpg

I see the throttle tie-in!  Thank you.  You're so good to me!

 

A 2-part hook!?  You dog me!

 

Great show, Wolf.

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

 

 

 

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22 hours ago, ChuckT said:

 

I’ve been stumped with figuring out a way to replicate a knurled surround and there you go and come up with the solution! Great work Wolf!

Thanks Chuck,

 

Yes, necessity is the mother of invention I guess. It doesn’t hurt that I had the micro weld bead on hand otherwise I’d probably have just left it.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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RB Productions rivet wheel was very instrumental in accomplishing that.'

Which did you use?  What do you think of the RB tools' spacing and imprint tie-in to Tamiyas riveting?
 

Hi Mark!
 

RB’s rivet wheel set comes with a few different rivet wheels and I simply chose the one in the set that matched the existing rivet spacing on the kit. It was my first time using the tool and I had to repair my first attempt at using it. The second time worked a charm.

 

As far as drilling out the holes for the cowl flap actuator cable, it was quite simple, and no need to drill at an angle. Each pulley, with arm, and return spring is a separate piece that gets glued to the cowl flap assembly. The holes For the cable were drilled out before the individual parts were attached to the cowl flaps. I hope that makes sense. If not, let me know, I can take a photo to show you exactly what I mean.
 

Cheers,

Wolf

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