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Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A


Wolf Buddee

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Wolf - maybe you can help me here.  Do you know the cross section diameter of the Tamiya ignition wiring harness on your R-2800 1/32?  My guess is about .045 to .050 inch (maybe 1.5 inch dia full scale).  I am trying to decide on a material for my own harness in 1/18 scale, and have had to resort to scaling pictures to try to arrive at a good diameter.  I cannot find any drawings or diagrams that clearly tell me.

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13 hours ago, JayW said:

Wolf - maybe you can help me here.  Do you know the cross section diameter of the Tamiya ignition wiring harness on your R-2800 1/32?  My guess is about .045 to .050 inch (maybe 1.5 inch dia full scale).  I am trying to decide on a material for my own harness in 1/18 scale, and have had to resort to scaling pictures to try to arrive at a good diameter.  I cannot find any drawings or diagrams that clearly tell me.

Hi Jay,

 

Are you referring to the actual ignition wire or the conduit the ignition wire comes out of? The size of the lead wire I used for the leads was .015.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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8 hours ago, Wolf Buddee said:

Are you referring to the actual ignition wire or the conduit the ignition wire comes out of? The size of the lead wire I used for the leads was .015.

 

The conduit.  The horse collar shaped conduit.

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As my time being laid off of work comes to an end I needed to get as much done on the Corsair as I could.

 

With the engine, cockpit, and fuselage complete I had to get cracking at the centre section of the wing including the main landing gear and wheel bays. I had some excellent photos of the wheel bays that I found on line so I decided to add the hydraulic lines that run through the wheel bays. These hydraulic lines operate the flaps, wing folds, landing gear, and gear bay doors. I had originally planned on using lead wire but went with copper wire instead. The copper wire was much easier to keep straight and lead wire is too soft so kinks easily and looks a mess for this application. The copper wire, however, was more of a pain to work with given the number of bends I needed to make to run the lines as per my photos.

 

I found that if I glued the wheel bays together except for the upper forward section, which the MLG fits in to, I could slip the gear bays off and on the main spar without any trouble. If the front upper section had been glued on the bays wouldn't have had enough flexibility to slide on and off. That made the initial copper wire runs and painting of the canvas covers much easier to accomplish. I added brass 0.5 mm nuts to detail the hydraulic manifold and hydraulic sequencing valve for the MLG and MLG bay doors as well as scratch built the small angled fittings at the top of the hydraulic manifold that run to the top of each hydraulic cylinder for the main gear doors.

 

Hopefully the following photos will show well enough what I've tried to accomplish.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

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Edited by Wolf Buddee
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