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Waldron Punch and Dies


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Hi guys,

 

I've been watching many of the scratchbuilding details added to various kits and have got the itch myself. Do you guys have any suggestions/ideas of suppliers? I've been looking at the Subminature and also the other Standard Waldron Puches and die.

 

Secondly it seems that the punches do 'disc's of various sizes. Is there any other shape they do? Do they also help you create shapes like Hex nuts as well? If they don't, how would one go about creating individual hex nut detail in 1/24 or 1/32. I get confused a bit when it comes to what does what in a punch and die set.( e.g Chris S's fuel filled caps on the P40...OK I get the disk but what about the bit on top of the disc that one would grip with fingers to get the fuel cap off...is this the shape of the punch or is it the die that it sits in?

 

I've had a surf around for various retailers and found 'Roll Models' to have the best prices so far...

As to where to buy I'm a bit unconvinced given the wide fluctuation in pricing and in postage I've seen (especially between UK and USA).

 

Help/ advice/input greatly appreciated

 

cheers Matt

 

PS Radu you must be laughing <_< ...this is why we 'neeeeed' your book mate :ph34r:

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Good topic Matty, I've often thought the same thing regarding punch sets.

 

When I eventually get to detailing my 1/24 Rolls-Royce merlin in 1/24 for my old airfix spit, I was just going to drill 0.5 or 1 mm mm holes and insert short ends of copper wire or styrene rod to simulate the bolts. Dunno if it'll work, but it should look better than whats currently there.

 

just a thought anyway.

 

Cheers,

Ango

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:D

Hi there,

Waldron's set only does circles, it was designed to be used in conjunction with their aircraft instruments.

There are some sets out there that produce hexagonal shapes, I think Historex Agents in the UK does a punch and die set for hexagonal parts

(www.historexagents.com) but I am sure there must be other manufacturers of punch and die sets out their.

There is a company called Grant line, I think that do injenction moulded nuts and bolts in hundreds of different sizes also in some Academy armour kits they provide seperate nuts and bolts moulded to the sprues that you shave off and apply as required.

Hope this is of help.

All the best,

Angelo :D

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Matt,

 

As a temporary measure, you could make your own punch set by utilising various sizes of drill bits. First, obtain two strips of 3mm or 5mm clear perspex (or similar) sheet. Scribe a centre line along one of the strips. Sandwhich a packing piece, or spacer, between the ends of the strips, and secure with screws (or bolts, or glue). Using the various sizes of drill bits, carefully drill vertically, along the centre line, all the way through both thicknesses of strip. Using a larger diameter drill bit for each hole (or some form of de-burring tool/cutter), gently chamfer each upper hole edge, thus introducing a 'punch guide lead-in'. Now the clever bit. Utilising the actual drill bits that you used to drill the holes in the strip, file/grind the shank end of the drill bit until it is square and flat to the shank, with a nice sharp edge. using the modified drill shank, insert the plastic card between the perspex strips, place the drill shank into the corresponding hole size, and use something of medium weight and hardness to gently tap the drill shank through the plastic sheet...and vola, one nicely punched piece of plastic sheet (or a new plastic disc)!.

 

HTH

 

Derek

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For hexnuts you might try Plastruct hexagonal stripes. RaiRo from Germany has, as far as I can remember a hexagonal punch-set too.

 

BTW, has someone a hint how to align punched out holes? I have some difficulties there when punching more than one whole, as they are seldom correct in alignment or distance. And using classic drillbits, I get get them right aligned and in distance, but the holes look disgusting... :D

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BTW, has someone a hint how to align punched out holes? I have some difficulties there when punching more than one whole, as they are seldom correct in alignment or distance. And using classic drillbits, I get get them right aligned and in distance, but the holes look disgusting... :D

The reason for the tranparent perspex in the above temporary hole punch, in conjunction with the scribed centre line (better still if it is a scribed cross through the centre of each hole) is to aid alignment of the plastic card (which should also be marked with a corresponding cross locating mark). On normal plastic that is to be hand drilled, I cross-mark the hole location as described, make a centre-punch (or other spot mark) in the centre of the exact cross mark, then use a mall drill to make the first hole, followed by progressively larger drills until the desired hole diameter is achieved.

 

HTH

 

Derek

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I must sing the praises of the Waldron Punch and Die set, it is one of my "couldn't do without" tools. But you are right it only does circles.

 

On those fuel filler caps, the cap is (as you noted) done with a punch, but the "grip" was done with a simple section of plastic "rod" strip...which brings to light something fairly critical...strip stock. You need lots of different sizes and shapes. Sheet, tube, rod (square and round), I L and U bearm etc...when you are standing at the plastic strip display, buy more different sizes and types than you think you'll need, some may languish for a long time, and then one day....they save the project :D

 

I punched the disk, then cut a piece of square rod wider than the disk, and glued it on in the center of the disk. Then I simply used a jeweler's file to round and shape the rod to my liking.

 

This is the kind of thing I'm looking to get from Radu...something that seems impressive to a viewer, but simple to the maker. In my opinion the more of these simple things we share together, the better we will all be as a group of builders.

post-8-1126707098.jpg

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Has anyone tried the much less expensive punchs or punch sets available in craft stores? I'm refering to the 'hole-punch' type that look like pliers. In addition to various sizes of circles, I've also seen them is diferent shapes such as stars, squares and hexegons.

 

The price tag on the Waldron set ($48 from Roll Models) is a bit steep for a hobby tool. :o

 

D

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The reason for the tranparent perspex in the above temporary hole punch, in conjunction with the scribed centre line (better still if it is a scribed cross through the centre of each hole) is to aid alignment of the plastic card (which should also be marked with a corresponding cross locating mark). On normal plastic that is to be hand drilled, I cross-mark the hole location as described, make a centre-punch (or other spot mark) in the centre of the exact cross mark, then use a mall drill to make the first hole, followed by progressively larger drills until the desired hole diameter is achieved.

 

HTH

 

Derek

Hm I just took a closer look at mine, the problem is probably that the diameters of the holes in both the perspex and the steel underplate are about 1 - 2/10 of a millimetre larger than the shaft, so I have a pretty loose fit. So both visually aligning the parts and punchins is made a little difficult, as the shaft tends to sway away.

 

K, I'll have to make something improved when I'll have have access to the neccessary tools next time :o

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The price tag on the Waldron set ($48 from Roll Models) is a bit steep for a hobby tool.

Then you don't really grasp the value of said tool. I bought both. Don't use them much (yet) but absolutely invaluable those few time I did. Having spent many years wrenching on cars, I've come to accept that some tools, despite cost and low usage, are worth their price simply because I don't get frustrated trying to make some other tool fit the job. No broken bolts, no stripped nuts, no fried gaskets, no ruptured blood vessels.

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Then you don't really grasp the value of said tool.

Thanks. As a life-long professional mechanic and technician, I do grasp the value of proper tools. But I also grasp that this set's price is higher than it needs to be.

 

Much like Snap-On or Mac hand tools, there are lower-priced alternatives without sacrificing quality or user-friendliness. I bought two punches today at AC Moore for $5.49. 1/8" & 3/16" round - sizes I would use for instruments of nearly every LSP project. Just tried them on Waldron instruments and they work perfectly.

 

Take care,

D

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Wow guys thanks,

 

Angelo..thanks mate. I checked out that web site and its looking like a good option. I'd just need to see what sizes of nut goes with what punch. Its handy to know what the punch and die can/can't do. On the Grant line nuts which you and Wumm referred to, no luck unfortunately down here. Wumm no luck with the Hobby shops...thanks man but I guess its not mainstream for them . Not that I mind this, after all its a niche area compared to the issues of trying to run an entire hobby shop.

 

Derek, thats a top idea and much more in my usual way of doing things. One of the major problems I've found down south here in Melbourne though is the generic nature of a lot of the hobby shops. Even the lack of aftermarket goodies, but especially tools at the latest Model Expo/competition. I recently bought some drills and snapped them up when I saw them...the guys in the engineering shops/hobby shops had always looked at me funny as though no one ever drills holes so small. So I'm thinking whilst its a 'great' idea (I'd also downloaded something similar off HS with photos) I'm simply stuck for supply of drills or drill guides to do it. Then again, I also have to consider my ability to create it. Maybe shall we say...confident but very very cautious...ie no beer beforehand.

 

KOTR, I agree Erwin should do a zero...oh sorry wrong thread ;) As for plastruc in hex shape, I'd heard about that but none of the shops I rang firstly had a clue what I was talking about, and when they eventually did...said they never stocked it. One guy was very nice and said his Armour-head mate used a stretched piece 'hairclip' which was the correct shape...I've already rang my mates hairdressing wife to track their existence/lack thereof down.

 

Chris S...I thought it was done like that. I had also wondered if it would have been possible to kinda stamp it to that shape...but then I wondered about the dies. Diagrams like that in a book have got my vote. I wonder how much it would be if LSPers forwarded a few $ to a publisher to get some made. I have no idea if it would be possible but I'd reckon once the word got out and people could see the Radu/Chris S/Chris R edition 1 the pressure would be on by the modelling community to produce one.

 

Slarti and D...oh man I'm with you guys on having the right tools for the job. If there's anything that gets me cranky BIGTIME its compromising on tools and equip....which if you're a patient of mine you're going to be happy about becasue you know I'm doing the best, in the most efficienct way. That doesn't mean being a prima donna and only buying Snap On( Also Expensive in Aus) but you have a point D...sometimes you can get exactly the same quality and efficiency with no apprent compromise but without the added price. The problem here in Aus is simply no ones knows what this punch and Die stuff is, little own stock it....e.g There is one new 262 in my local hobby shop but X20 3in 1 Tigers.

 

But as for prices this is what I have so far

Meteor Productions Waldron subminature Punch and Die 109.99

Roll Models Waldron subminature Punch and Die 86.00

Roll models Waldron 'standard' Punch and die 48

 

UK was 123Pounds...yoik let go of my leg ;) ( Oh...its Rudel... :lol: )

 

If you guys can come up with any other better places you know of...please feel free to post without fear of feeling you're advertising. Thanks for the input chaps :D Thumbs Up...I_

 

Cheers Matt

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Hi Mat,

I bought both sets from Historex and use the round ones all the time.

The hex head are great for dressing up engines and stuff.

Check this link http://www.historexagents.com/web/punch&dieindex.html.

They were here in Melbourne 5 days after i placed my order!!!!

These could be bought from Brisbane but I bought mine direct as it was

much cheaper.

I have a friend that has both Waldron sets and swers by them as well.

Cheers

Tim

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