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1/32 Trumpeter Me 262A-1a "Yellow 3"


Thunnus

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Thanks for understanding my situation.  It's good to know that others have gone through periods of inactivity.  I'm not quite ready to jump into this build full steam but since I'm back at the bench, I thought I could at least being to think about some of the things that I'll be running into eventually.

 

Wondering about how to capture the well-worn look of this particular aircraft, I thought I'd do a little exercise in pre-shading.  The Trumpeter kit has some extra engine nacelles in clear plastic so I glued together one of those together as a paint mule.  The nacelle was given a grey primer coat.  I'm going to do one half in my normal black mottling pre-shade and the other side will be black-based.
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Here's my normal pre-shading on one side... black is used on the panel lines and the mottle pattern.
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On the other side is my attempt at black-basing.  The 262 I am building is noted to have primer (assuming it is some sort of grey) showing through along the panel lines.  So my initial base coat on top of the black is Neutral Grey.  The panel lines are traced with the same grey color.
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RLM76 Light Blue and RLM83 Dark Green are the camo colors for this test.  My normal mottle technique results in panel lines that are darker than the camo.
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The black basing technique with the grey on the panel lines resulted in panel lines that are lighter than the camo.  That is the primary difference between the two techniques.  The modulation effects are similar and if I had not highlighted the panel lines in grey on the black base side, the two would be even more similar.
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Seeing these results hasn't convinced me either way..  I rubbed some Micromesh along the panel lines on the black base side to reveal the grey more.  I then gave the nacelle a quick weathering treatment.

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Just a quick test to give me some ideas when I actually paint this model.

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Great to see this one resurrected, I have been off modelling for the past year and was desperate to get back into it, so I started to do simple things at the bench and slowly the urge came back, it wasn't fun at the start but I soon slipped back into building and the enthusiasm came back.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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Hello John

 

I am so glad that you are back on your work bench, so god the lord have listen to me hehehehe. I am 42 years a modeler already, and of course i got some breaks in my hobby, i think thats normal, because other things are more important, cars, girls, wine, drugs and rock and roll, but any time our feeling for modelling come back.

 

I hope you stay in this great hobby longer, coz i like your way of painting and weathering so much, same as Ralph Riese.

 

 

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Thank you all for the positive comments!  I appreciate all of the support and hope to get this build on track now that my modeling mojo has returned.  I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas!

 

I pulled out the 262 build the other day and had a look to remind myself where I was at.  The fuselage is all buttoned up as are the wings with the engine nacelles attached.  The landing gear legs have been painted.  I noticed that that the oleo for the nose gear had lost its shine.  I had elected to use the metal nose leg that Trumpeter had supplied.  I didn't know how to address the eventual tarnishing of the metal so I decided to use the kit plastic nose gear, of which Trumpeter supplies two.

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I first cut off the oleo scissors.  There is a considerable amount of weight in the nose to prevent tail-sitting so I wanted to reinforce the nose gear with a long brass tube shaft. 

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Using the completed nose gear as a guide, I re-did the brake line attachments. The brake line can be threaded on later so I'll remove it so that I can paint the nose gear.

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One of the things that was holding me up on this build was the addition of the small control rods in the wheel bay.  The instructions from the Aires resin set is vague at best so I kept ignoring the placement of those rods.  I hunkered down and got them in finally.

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I guess I'm ready to attach the wings to the fuselage.  The fit is not the best here so I'll have to be careful to ensure that I have a good cement bond all the way around.  Here is a test fit showing the view into the wheel wells.

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