BloorwestSiR Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I'll check to make sure I've got a full set of masks for you. The tool stand is from Hobby Zone. They're really great. I've got a couple of them and since you're in the States, shipping won't be be as bad. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Work is a bit on hold for now, while I wait for the masks from Carl. Thanks, buddy! BloorwestSiR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Yikes! What happened there Brian? Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimHepplestone Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Brian, here's some of the pics from when I did the roundels on my Mossie. I usually draw an X from corner to corner on the mask and number each segment so I can identify where they go and on which roundel. I then apply the outermost section and line that up. If you go with Maketar, I generally prefer their vinyl ones versus the kabuki tape as they're easier to reposition. I usually work from the inside out. I reinstall the mask elements until just the center is left. To prevent bleeding between layers, I'll use green painters tape to cover the rest of the mask. This may not be necessary but I do it out of an abundance of caution. Then I apply paint. I normally use Tamiya thinned with their lacquer thinner so I can get these done in one sitting. I always cover the painted bit before removing the next section of mask. This makes it easier to align things along with the lines drawn earlier. I then continue working my way outwards. I don't normally put a white base coat down which some folks do. I find that's where you get the greatest chance of it showing between elements. Plus it also can make the roundels thicker. Let me know if you have any other questions. Carl Love the roundels. Personally I also like montex masks. Closet sci fy builder I see? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Alot of ups and a little downs. Happens. The mossie is looking fantastic Brian! Sorry i forgot to mention a suggestion to use the HGW stencil wet transfers for the small stencils. It eliminates all carrier film that you find on the decals from tamiya. Either way the progress looks superb! K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Yikes! What happened there Brian? Carl See my edited post above for explanation, Carl. Alot of ups and a little downs. Happens. The mossie is looking fantastic Brian! Sorry i forgot to mention a suggestion to use the HGW stencil wet transfers for the small stencils. It eliminates all carrier film that you find on the decals from tamiya. Either way the progress looks superb! K Thanks, Karim. Yes, I did use mostly the stencils, as you'll read in my edited post (now with words!). What I think you're referring to in that second shot of the fuel tank stencil is the residue from the film. After I get all the stencils and decals on, I'm going to wash the microsol, decal adhesive, and film residue off gently before sealing it in with another coat of clear. My kid woke me up at 0400 this morning, and since I couldn't get back to sleep after he did, I went out to the garage. Managed to repair that spot where I rubbed through the paint and get all the HGW transfers on the top side of the plane. I've left them all to sit and this afternoon I'll hope the film comes off cleanly on all of them. In spite of Carl's generosity in sending me his leftover stencils, I realized that I didn't have a good insignia blue or red color for the masks, and I didn't want to wait another 10 days to get paints sent from an online shop. Having seen how well the red x over the radiator responded to microsol and patience, I decided to give the roundels another try. I used water just off the boil, and getting them hot really helped them react better. Then I applied microsol and was just extremely patient to let them settle on their own. They were starting to look really good when I left this morning. I thank you still for sending the masks, Carl, and I will save them for a Spitfire. Sorry I didn't elect to use them here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I couldnt get paint to stick to brass, and I only use laquers. Then tried soaking the same way as with resin parts (HUGE learning curve) and the helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 I couldnt get paint to stick to brass, and I only use laquers. Then tried soaking the same way as with resin parts (HUGE learning curve) and the helped. Yeah, that's why I initially tried the burnishing fluid to blacken the barrels without worrying about paint sticking. But it just didn't work as well as I wanted. Tell me more about your technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Yeah, that's why I initially tried the burnishing fluid to blacken the barrels without worrying about paint sticking. But it just didn't work as well as I wanted. Tell me more about your technique. soak in Acetone, then scrub with a toothbrush, then use burnishing fluid. after burninshing, scrub again with toothbrush and water. If it flakes off, then paint wont stick either. However, there is a simpler method, soak in acetone, use a metal etch primer, then paint any color. This is precisely why they started to use zinc primer in WW2, stainless, brass, aluminum are not easy to paint. Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 soak in Acetone, then scrub with a toothbrush, then use burnishing fluid. after burninshing, scrub again with toothbrush and water. If it flakes off, then paint wont stick either. However, there is a simpler method, soak in acetone, use a metal etch primer, then paint any color. This is precisely why they started to use zinc primer in WW2, stainless, brass, aluminum are not easy to paint. Interesting. I'll have to try that technique next time I'm using brass barrels. Although, scrubbing tiny brass tubes with a toothbrush doesn't sound easy. Do you find that acetone -> scrub -> burnishing usually does the trick? Or do you usually resort to priming and painting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 I wouldn't be surprised if the brass barrels are sealed in a clear lacquer to keep them from tarnishing before people buy them. As for the roundels, they should work fine on a Spitfire. I usually mix my own roundel red and blue so hadn't thought about using some that's ready made. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 What's your mix? I have a couple reds but didn't have any blue left besides usn intermediate blue, and didn't see any way to make that dark enough for an insignia blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 I use Tamiya paints for my roundels. Roundel red is XF-7 Flat Red and XF-9 Hull Red 75:25 Blue is XF-8 Flat Blue, XF-17 Sea Blue and XF-1 Flat Black. The ratio is approximately 75:15:10 I think. I sometimes use semi gloss black instead so it's not as flat. Yellow is XF-3 Flat Yellow and a drop of XF-7 Flat Red Hope that helps. Carl Uncarina and Bstarr3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Interesting. I'll have to try that technique next time I'm using brass barrels. Although, scrubbing tiny brass tubes with a toothbrush doesn't sound easy. Do you find that acetone -> scrub -> burnishing usually does the trick? Or do you usually resort to priming and painting? Honestly, Not anymore, I now prime and paint, I gave up burnishing, it was just an extra step. I had a lot of chipping issues on my P-40, the burnishing is a good base for primer though, but last couple I just primed and paint, I had chipping now. I have had good luck with using Stynilrez primer and Metal Air paint, they are both very thin and don't build up. I beleive Tamiya also makes a metal primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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