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Bil

1:16 Scale Scratch-built PT-17 Stearman

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excellent stuff. I was going to ask all the same questions about soldering, but I see others have answered them. I tried it for the first time recently, and although I made a complete pig's ear of it the resulting bond was unbreakable. You should give it a try... but the epoxy route seems to be working just fine!

 

When I spoke to Guillermo about using the epoxy, he stated that he has used it on his models for over 30 years and none have yet to fall apart or have failed joins.. so I will continue as I am for now and see if I get the same performance, if not then I will of course consider changing over to all brass and solder. 

 

The key with working with epoxy with metal is to ensure all surfaces being joined have been filed, sanded, or somehow roughened up to give it something to grab onto.  Fail to do that, and the bond will be weak and will indeed fail.

 

Bil

Edited by Bil

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RUDDER & FIN - Details

 

For the rudder I added the hinge components and the leading edge fairing, which is shown cut out of thin aluminum and shaped in this image:

IMG_1197.JPG

 

I also added the rudder wire connection tabs to the rudder horn, I did round the ends off later, this image shows the base construction:

IMG_1204.JPG

 

A test fit of the rudder and fin hinge connections:

IMG_1205.JPG

 

For the fin I added the support wire bracing lugs (just beneath the top rib) and the leading edge fairing.. note that the fin leading edge fairing in this image is not the final, I was dissatisfied with it, ripped it off and remade the fairing.. second try was MUCH better.

IMG_1209.JPG

 

Finally a coat of gray primer was given to both the fin and the rudder and they were joined together, for no other reason than I was curious as to how they would look. 
 
Note that this will not be the final color, that will be chromium oxide green.
 
I do still need to add the tail light with wire conduit and the trim tab to the rudder.
 
The hinge rod is only held in by friction, I want to be able to remove the rudder for additional painting/detail work later.
IMG_1228.JPG
 
The real thing:
IMG_1160.JPG
 
Bil
Edited by Bil

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Looks great! Forgive if you've already said, but how are you planning to cover? Using R/C style fabric shrink coat? 

 

Good question, and now that I think about it I don't think discussed covering yet.  Simple answer is that I don't plan to.  I will include all hatches, metal cowlings, wood fairings, etc. but I am going to leave the model displayed as a structural model.  Otherwise I would just build the structure out of wood and cover it where it wouldn't be seen, like in the rudder and fin.

 

I think it goes back to what I do for a living, and I actually am fascinated with aircraft structure and the engineering that went into building these beauties... I also plan to have the control surfaces linked and operable from the cockpit, hatches should open and close, etc.... ala Ken Foran.  Time will tell whether those goals will be achievable.

 

Bil

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Brahman104, do you have a link to the model build in the photos you included?  Looks like it would be worth exploring.

 

 

Hi Jim, 

 

I totally get your preference for the epoxy, especially coming on the advice of such a master! Soldering is quite straight forward, and with a little practice is pretty easy, and forgiving. Probably the most important part if you choose to have a go later in the build, is to properly jig everything up, so you don't have to worry about alignment issues.

 

In any case, for now you're doing wonders with your build so far! :)

 

The photos I included are for my long-running B-17 G to D model conversion based on the HK kit, here's the link if you want to have a look....

 

 

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=54022

 

Cheers,

 

Craig

 

 

EDIT: Kev already beat me to the link! hahaha, got to be quick around here :)

Edited by brahman104

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I have been working on the fuselage frame recently, some reference drawings:

002.png

003.png

After completing one side of the frame my progress looks like this:

IMG_1107.JPG

 

IMG_1111.JPG

 

Looks nice I think.. however after completing my read through of Airscale's Spitfire Race 80 thread I came to realize that I've been taking too many shortcuts and have been too cavalier with the build quality.. so I am going back to the drawing board on this and will be rebuilding it with a closer attention to detail this time... and better planning.  I doubt I will ever be at Peter's skill level (but who knows? ;) ), but I can at least learn from him and pay closer attention to the details.  More later after I regroup and try again.

 

Quality without compromise, eh?

 

Bil

 

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Looks nice I think.. however after completing my read through of Airscale's Spitfire Race 80 thread I came to realize that I've been taking too many shortcuts and have been too cavalier with the build quality.. so I am going back to the drawing board on this and will be rebuilding it with a closer attention to detail this time... and better planning.  I doubt I will ever be at Peter's skill level (but who knows? ;) ), but I can at least learn from him and pay closer attention to the details.  More later after I regroup and try again.

 

Quality without compromise, eh?

 

Bil

 

 

Indeed!   Im not sure ANY of us will ever be at Peters level honestly. 

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On covering, have you considered covering one side?

 

Richard

 

 

Yep,

Same thing I suggested.....

 

 

Sounds like a plan!  I was actually going to suggest that, or even cover 1/2 of it, 

 

 

 

 

Obviously the full open naked look would be very cool too, just a thought on an interesting take with only 1/2 covered. 

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IMG_1107.JPG

 

Where does everybody keep getting these types of drawings?  When I start my build next year, I would like to do the same thing with my build (B-25 under restoration)

 

Love your work sir....drooling looking forward to your updates!

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