monthebiff Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 truly is a rebuild Truly is an amazing build. Love what you are doing here Torben and what an excellent update. Regards. NDY TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Those fairings turned out nice! Waiting for the next update! I think I am getting addicted to this great build! Alain TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Really starting to look like a racing plane now! Looks so much cleaner than when you took the first photos. Keep it up! Gaz TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Hey, that's becoming quite a looker now! Richard Thanks Richard - she's one dainty, pretty looking bird that's for sure. Hi Torben - Brilliant modelling skills on display right there! Cheers! John. Cheers John, thanks for the encouragement. I reckon it's about It's 49% patience and 50% no compromise, 1% skill Torben..... just caught up.. Exemplary workmanship throughout. Thanks Maru, if this comes out half as good as the delicious food you brought to Telford I'll be a very happy man! Torben Will you please stop doing so well with this! It's putting me right off getting my own build sorted!! Only joking - she's looking beautiful. The stance is perfect and the surface finish is great (once I can stop "seeing" the polka dots of filler, of course! ). Looking forward to seeing it with some paint on. Kev Cheers Kev, so am I! but still quite a bit to do yet. At least I get to cover the spots with primer before I get to the riveting. "Bondo", automobile body putty, is good for these things, rather than milliput or other type of filler because the resin based putty is much much stronger and a bit more flexible. Problem is the resin based filler is a bear to file. You have to be very careful as it is easy to file away the polystyrene parts next to it. But then you can use a filler like milliput to fill in that part. I would suggest an initial undersize fillet of resin putty (bondo) and then the softer weaker putty over that for the final shaping. Yes it is a lot of work. I've heard of Bondo but don't think it's readily available this side of the pond. Thanks for the heads up - Always up for experimenting with new materials so I'll keep an eye out when I'm next in an automotive store. One of the main reasons for using Milliput (apart from being brilliant and familiar) is that it carves and sands so well and is not so hard that you first damage any PS next to it if you go carefully. modelman182 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Great effort and result too! Juraj Cheers Juraj Wonderful result. You have earned yourself a double of your favorite brew ! As a side note, your build has complelely convinced me ... No way I will add this one to the stash. In as much as I love racers and Schneider Cup racers especially, the kit is just not fine enough to warrant the expense. I might just as well scratchbuild one ... Can't wait to see the build finished and some paint on it ... Hubert Double Hic! I have very mixed feelings about this Hubert. On one aspect I think its absolutely fabulous that companies like Marsh Models undertake bringing such esoteric subjects to the market - for that they should be applauded and one can build up a good looking (if slightly clunky) S5. I have to admit I was expecting to do a bit of fettling but not quite so much as has turned up! I for one wouldn't have started this journey without following what modellers like Eric Galliers and others on this forum have done form such start points with Aerotech resin, but once I got in to all the research and finding such a wealth of external photographic reference I couldn't help but want to try and get this as good and accurate as I could make it. I'm enjoying the challenge (mostly!) learning many new skills and hope to end up with a unique, fine model of one of my favourite planes. The encouragement and feedback in these forums is key to making this a more pleasurable experience in what can be a solitary hobby. Man, that's a huge amount of work you're putting into the build. I get a better idea of the plane with the upper and lower halves together, looks like it's all motor with a minimal amount of plane attached. Don Too true Don - scalewise it feels closer to a 1/48 scale fighter, I'm guessing in the same way a F1 or Indy 500 would compare to a large sports coupe. That's what these Schneider racers were : big engine, minimal frontal area and weight. The epitome of this design concept was the Macchi MC-72 ... But then, it was incredibly efficient, and remained the fastest prop-driven floatplane or flying boat for decades ... Hubert Don't forget one of the prettiest too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Spectacular "Rebuild" of this kit,so much better looking by a mile ....It will be resplendent when it's all gloss blue. truly is a rebuild Cheers William, Shawn - yup it's turned out that way in a few areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Truly is an amazing build. Love what you are doing here Torben and what an excellent update. Regards. NDY Those fairings turned out nice! Waiting for the next update! I think I am getting addicted to this great build! Alain Really starting to look like a racing plane now! Looks so much cleaner than when you took the first photos. Keep it up! Gaz Thanks Andy, Alain and Gaz for your kind comments and encouragement, much much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Right, on with the build and on with the tail feathers. Not the greatest fit but pretty straightforward. Before doing so I carefully (re) cut the elevators off with a razor saw, making sure I stopped at the strengthening wires before easing them out. Originally I was planing to just heavily scribe this line but decided later on that I want to pose them at a slight angle down so they had to be removed - all went smoothly... phew! The underside will be cleaned up more when the top and bottom fuselage get finally joined together More in a minute, Torben Shawn M, BradG, Trak-Tor and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Wow - late to the party, but what a super effort you've put into this ! I've always thought these pre-war racers were the ultimate thoroughbred planes, and I've been eyeing that kit for some time, but being put off by the price. Seeing what you have to do, has put me off completely... thanks for that I guess :-) But I am sure that it will be a beauty when finished !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumpjack Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 I think what Americans know as Bondo is the same as UK car body filler products such as Isopon P38. The U-Pol Quicksand easy sanding version (Halfords) does what it says on the tin and is a lot easier to dress than is Hard set Milliput . By the way, assuming you already know fresh Milliput can be readily dressed to shape with water as lubricant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Next to re-enter the pit... It was now that I realised that as I've elected to show the hood completely folded back that despite carving out and opening up the interior I still needed to enlarge this area further especially in the pedal area which is not deep enough. Before: After: As you can see much will be visible in the depths! All this extra room meant that the locating hole for the leg support insert was much shallower and I had to trim the top off the front support in the plug insert for the legs - fortunately with the Milliput I'd just added underneath the plug to start fairing in the legs and create the correct belly shape the legs were stable enough not be affected. Apologies, no image of this yet.... Next up I lined the base with 10thou card to get a nice smooth finish and then started on the side walls ribbing. As already covered, I've been unable to to get any interior shots of the S5's interior so using a combination of the following (pixelated) plans and a couple of the S6's interior shots I set too with a bit of best guess and creative gizmology (Shep Paine stylie!) First up the side walls. My first idea was to build a whole section of side wall ribbing on 10thou card and cut this up later to fit my needs. By carefully sanding this back before adding the main structural ribs I was able retain as much scale finesse as i could without losing it completely. These 05mm square sections of Evergreen where also sanded back to a shallower depth. It was after doing all this and test fitting sections when I realised I would still have difficulty neatly trimming and fitting this to the prepared sidewalls and (especially) the highly curved floor area that I decided a different approach might be better and more refined. This way I also got to add some rivet detail internally... Taking 10thou plastic card I used a riveting tool with the most appropriate tooth gaps and ran them down the card using a reasonable amount of pressure up against the edge of a steel rule to keep everything straight. Care must be taken not to push completely through the thin card but to leave the impression of a fine row of pop rivets on the reverse side. By making two such lines the correct spacing apart and trimming out I had the riveted base for my ribs. These were carefully sanded as thin as possible on the opposite side to the popped rivets to get as much scale thickness as I could without them becoming to delicate to work with or so thin that any liquid glue (no matter how sparingly applied) would not simply dissolve them on contact. I then added the 0.5mm square sections for the structural section of the ribs in between the raised rivets, again sanding this back once the glue had firmly set so they would be more scale depth. Much happier now as this will add a little extra eye candy to what is quite a sparse cockpit. After making a masking tape template of the side walls from the carved out interior I cut 10thou side walls to the right shape and after carefully measuring up I made up the side walls allowing a little wiggle room at either end refine the final placement fore/aft against the exterior rivet positions - (more of which in a minute!!!!) More in a mo' Torben BradG, Gazzas, Hubert Boillot and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Absolutely exquisite detailing, Torben. You keep raising the bar on this one ! Hubert TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Regarding this fore/aft position and getting the internal ribs riveting to match the external riveting I've hit a little conundrum that I hope some of you chaps and chapesses can give me a steer. When looking at references of the cockpit area the double rows rivets for the ribs are clearly visible and closely match he scale spacing I've done internally My question is about these in relation the the rear bulkhead of the cockpit. I'd expect to see a vertical line of rivets line up with the rear edge, or may be just slightly behind to take into account the thickness of the seat rear cushion and headrest so that this bulkhead would be fitted directly against a rib. From this image (although) not 100% side on the rib looks like it's set back a good 6 inch +. The best plans I have (see last post) have these cushions resting up against the rear bulkhead. From what the external rivet lines are indicating the only possible conclusions I can glean is that: 1. Either the bulkhead is not fitted completely flush with the cockpit surround but set back to the near rearmost row of rivets and the the headrest (and seat rear cushion?) is deep enough to just show slightly in front of the cockpit surround. 2. The rear bulkhead is somehow fixed to the same rearmost rib but in such a way that it's not riveted to the fuselage skin and set forward so it is flush with the cockpit opening. From all the images/videos I can see point 2 is the most likely as I can only see what appears to be flush fitted bulkhead in the headrest area - it that case I'm surprised it has no external riveting in line. Any thoughts, ideas, insights most welcome. Whilst I'm on... does anyone have any idea if they just used lap seatbelts or would they have had shoulder harnesses too? I suspect just laps... Thanks for looking in, Torben Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trak-Tor Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Excellent! Looking forward for the detailed cockpit. Juraj TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumpjack Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Seatbelts- not exactly definitive but in the Schneider cockpit scenes from First of the Few, David Niven does not appear to be wearing any shoulder straps! You can find the film on YouTube; relevant scene is around 39 minutes. TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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