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TorbenD

Aerotech Supermarine S5

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Torben, fine work with that jig! Getting all parts well aligned is a lot of work but in the end there is (almost) no hassle for final assembly. 

 

Alain

 

Thanks Alain, the pain was indeed definitely worth it!

 

Fascinating and fantastic work, Torben. Can I just ask ONE question, though. Do you have three pairs of hands??? That jig looks like it could be a monster to manipulate!  ;)  :D

 

Can't wait to see more of this beautiful Blue and Silver beast.

 

Kev

 

Cheers Kev much appreciated. Yup, and my feet and my toes!!! 

 

DSC02543-X2.jpg

 

... and some ad hoc weight when I ran out of those!

 

DSC02541-X2.jpg

 

I started roughly forming the outside shape of shoes with white Milliput once everything was weighted down. I added some small scraps of cling film first so the Milliput wouldn't stick to the floats as I wanted to be able to remove the legs/shoes to work on further.

 

Once outside was fully cured with the legs now set at the right height I removed the jig....

 

DSC02547-X2.jpg

 

 and roughly formed the inside shapes; a wrap of masking tape now holding the legs firmly to the floats.

 

DSC02551-X2.jpg

 

DSC02552-X2.jpg

 

DSC02557-X2.jpg

 

My first attempt to carve and file these back to the right shape revealed (beyond not taking photos to share :doh: ) 4 things:

 

1. White Milliput definitely too brittle when thin! I know, I know, you told me so...

2. Not (again) trust to plans as photographic references show the shows to be much smaller than all drawings  :fight:

3. Carving/filing the shape should be done as much as possible in situ

4. Both my port legs were minutely twisted out of true, the rear worse than the fore.  :BANGHEAD2:

 

more to follow tomorrow...

 

Torben

Edited by TorbenD

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Not sure if you have solved the milliput problem yet, but you could super glue a thin, curved (to follow the float shape) 0.010" styrene sheet under the milliput fairing to give them strength. The lip would not be brittle, as it would now be styrene.

Hope this helps!

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I feel your Pain.  Except for Zimmerit paste, I've given up on milliput unless I want to make a large, solid shape. 

 

Gaz

 

Still gotta love it Gaz - in my case it was user error - green did the job second time around...

 

 

Not sure if you have solved the milliput problem yet, but you could super glue a thin, curved (to follow the float shape) 0.010" styrene sheet under the milliput fairing to give them strength. The lip would not be brittle, as it would now be styrene.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks Alain, I did consider that as a back up - possibly even using a thin brass sheet instead but in the end I think Milluput alone should hold up.

 

On with these pesky shoes...

 

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the first attempt at the shoes or the twist fix. Of the latter the front port leg just required a firm, gentle twist which carefully adjusted the inner brass core without stressing the CA and plastic outer. The Rear port leg require extra persuasion but fortunately the rod at the top was malleable enough to rotate to exactly the right degree.

 

These minor adjustments left the original shoes slightly lifted (and twisted) so after replacing the cling film with small squares of clear sellotape the next task was to squeeze some slivers of green Milliput under these gaps before again giving the all shoes a thin over coat of more of the same.

 

DSC02561-X2.jpg

 

DSC02562-X2.jpg

 

As you can see I carefully drew guidelines in pencil so that when I started carving/filling back the teardrop shape would be correctly aligned - much tricker than I originally thought to achieve.

 

What followed was a long session filing, carving, checking (repeat ad infinitum) in front of as much photographic reference as I could gather. Most of this done with everything in situ on the floats. 

 

DSC02565-X2.jpg

 

DSC02564-X2.jpg

 

I had to laugh as almost all the green Milluput was removed as I ended up with far smaller shoes based on the photos  :hmmm: but combination of green and white seems to have given enough strength and finesse.

 

When almost there I very carefully removed the legs and even more carefully gave a final finesse concentrating and on the edges with curved scalpel blades and a fine rat tail files.

 

Once reassembled I'm much happier with the result. Hopefully after a coat of primer not much more refining will be needed.

 

DSC02571-X2.jpg

 

DSC02569-X2.jpg

 

Phew! Just got to sort the top of the legs now  :frantic:

 

Torben

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One more post - couldn't resist a quick dry fit check progress so far and to remind myself of the fact I'm building a whole plane not just some sticks on floats!

 

DSC02574-X2.jpg

 

DSC02575-X2.jpg

 

DSC02576-X2.jpg

 

DSC02578-X2.jpg

 

All seems stable so far and the stance looking nice and accurate. Double phew!!

 

Cheers for looking,

 

Torben

Edited by TorbenD

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Wonderful result. You have earned yourself a double of your favorite brew :) !

 

As a side note, your build has complelely convinced me ... No way I will add this one to the stash. In as much as I love racers and Schneider Cup racers especially, the kit is just not fine enough to warrant the expense. I might just as well scratchbuild one ...

 

Can't wait to see the build finished and some paint on it ...

 

Hubert

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Torben

 

Will you please stop doing so well with this! It's putting me right off getting my own build sorted!!

 

Only joking  :)  - she's looking beautiful. The stance is perfect and the surface finish is great (once I can stop "seeing" the polka dots of filler, of course!  ;) ). Looking forward to seeing it with some paint on.

 

Kev

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"Bondo", automobile body putty, is good for these things, rather than milliput or other type of filler because the resin based putty is much much stronger and a bit more flexible. 

Problem is the resin based filler is a bear to file. You have to be very careful as it is easy to file away the polystyrene parts next to it. 

But then you can use a filler like milliput to fill in that part. 

I would suggest an initial undersize fillet of resin putty (bondo) and then the softer weaker putty over that for the final shaping. 

Yes it is a lot of work.  :punk:

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Man, that's a huge amount of work you're putting into the build. I get a better idea of the plane with the upper and lower halves together, looks like it's all motor with a minimal amount of plane attached.

 

Don

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Man, that's a huge amount of work you're putting into the build. I get a better idea of the plane with the upper and lower halves together, looks like it's all motor with a minimal amount of plane attached.

 

Don

That's what these Schneider racers were : big engine, minimal frontal area and weight. The epitome of this design concept was the Macchi MC-72 ... But then, it was incredibly efficient, and remained the fastest prop-driven floatplane or flying boat for decades ...

 

Hubert

Edited by MostlyRacers

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