1/24 Scratchbuilt Westland Whirlwind Mk.1.

[Rick K]

WTF!  Mind blown!

 

This is truly great stuff.  Tagged this thread I did.

[SCRATCH BUILDER]

HIPS is all I use, I find that ABS as to many warping issues when you printing thin wall and PLA was ok but for what we want to do its not useful.

 

You will find with HIPS and a raft you can print 90 degree vertical. 

[Cap'n Wannabe]

 

I think I'll call this a proof of concept. The experience so far with PLA is quite good, but the material is hard and brittle when printing this thin. It is also quite hard to sand and a little difficult to glue. I tried CA, but maybe I didn't use the right type because I could quite easy break the parts up again. I thought maybe I should use epoxy glue to join the parts instead, but haven't tried it yet.

I've found the glue that works best for PLA is Selley's Plastic Fix.  You get a primer pen that you apply to one surface, and a superglue gel.  Normal superglue just doesn't have the same bonding power.

[GunnarO]

HIPS is all I use, I find that ABS as to many warping issues when you printing thin wall and PLA was ok but for what we want to do its not useful.

 

You will find with HIPS and a raft you can print 90 degree vertical. 

 

This is good news!   Thanks.

Can you share some print settings you find works best on your printer? like printing temp., heat bed temp., printing speed, etc.

 

I've found the glue that works best for PLA is Selley's Plastic Fix.  You get a primer pen that you apply to one surface, and a superglue gel.  Normal superglue just doesn't have the same bonding power.

 

Thanks! I suspected this was the case. For the moment I'll try out prints with HIPS and see if I can use D-Limonene as glue, or maybe normal plastic kit glue will work.

 

Cheers

[Trak-Tor]

It looks good.

[SCRATCH BUILDER]

Hey Gun,

 

Use this to glue Plastiweld/Plastruct , and Tamiya plastic cement works also, fuse's together just like a kit model.

 

As far as setting i have Lulzbot Taz 6, extruder temp 240, bed 90, speed 35mm(kinda slow, but i have the time,slow speeds mean better prints)

Just because a printer can do 70mm/s doesn't mean it should, I also use Simplify 3D to slice.

 

Always use a raft or brim but make the brim touch the print for support(easy to trim off. 

 

I will get you more settings on our 3D printing thread.

[Dan Paxton]

I Love your work and explanation of what you're doing.  I am now following this thread!

 

I've been working with TinkerCAD, teaching myself how to create the 3D models of what I will want to build when I do buy a printer.  STEEP learning curve, fortunately, i'm doing the design leaning before committing to the purchase....keeps my mind occupied.

 

LOVE the work you're doing

 

Cheers 

Dan

[AlexM]

Great work so far

 

Currently, I like HIPS best for that kind of projects, too. Easy to glue, sand and scribe.

 

Cheers

Alex

[GunnarO]

I Love your work and explanation of what you're doing.  I am now following this thread!

 

I've been working with TinkerCAD, teaching myself how to create the 3D models of what I will want to build when I do buy a printer.  STEEP learning curve, fortunately, i'm doing the design leaning before committing to the purchase....keeps my mind occupied.

 

LOVE the work you're doing

 

Cheers 

Dan

 

Thanks, Dan!

 

A very capable CAD package is Fusion 360 from Autodesk. It has all the tools you need for modeling an aircraft and direct export to a slicer software like Cura or PreForm. It has a free license for "enthusiasts", which we are....

 

Software download: https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/free-trial

License information: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html

 

 

Great work so far

 

Currently, I like HIPS best for that kind of projects, too. Easy to glue, sand and scribe.

 

Cheers

Alex

 

 

Thanks, Alex!

 

Good to get a second confirmation on the decision to use HIPS. Got a shipment confirmation today, so won't be long before next print is running.

 

 

Cheers

[wunwinglow]

Really interested to see how the HIPS works out. I'm trying to persuade my bosses that an FDM machine would be a great addition to the workshop. If I had the spare cash myself....!

[GunnarO]

FINALLY!!!  a roll of HIPS is in the house.

 

First print was perfect, better quality than the PLA parts and easy to work with. Cutting and filing was just plain easy. My favorite material so far. I started with a small part for mounting the tailplane together, and went on to do the tailplanes.

 

Then the problems begun...

 

The following prints would not stick to the plate, so I'm still trying different methods for keeping them stuck. I guess it is the warping that lifts them, so just need to find the right stuff to fix it.

 

The quality of the parts though, is just great. Looking forward to see how the parts turns out when I find the right solution.

 

The cross for mounting the tailplane and part of port tailplane:

 

The hole in the tailplane parts have a 0,1mm clearance, and slides perfecly on to the mounting cross:

 

Mounted together, it's a perfect fit.

 

On to the next test....

 

Cheers

[Shawn M]

nice rigid solution, takes alignment out of the equation!

[AlexM]

Hey Gunnar, look at our 3d-printing thread:

 

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=70571&page=2

 

I had the same problems with HIPS not sticking on the plate, and finally bought this special foil called Buildtak. It's available in various sizes. And I'm not exaggerating when I say that for me, it's difference like day and night. Especially the very first few prints on this foil were sticking so good on the plate that it wasn't easy to remove the parts. I use a box cutter blade to carefully remove the parts. After some prints, the adhesion is getting weaker, but it is still much better than printing on the glass plate. Highly recommended.

 

Cheers

Alex

[SCRATCH BUILDER]

I cant stress enough the use of a raft or brim when your printing. gives the print a much wider base to the plate.

[GunnarO]

nice rigid solution, takes alignment out of the equation!

 

Thanks, yes it works very well.

 

Hey Gunnar, look at our 3d-printing thread:

 

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=70571&page=2

 

I had the same problems with HIPS not sticking on the plate, and finally bought this special foil called Buildtak. It's available in various sizes. And I'm not exaggerating when I say that for me, it's difference like day and night. Especially the very first few prints on this foil were sticking so good on the plate that it wasn't easy to remove the parts. I use a box cutter blade to carefully remove the parts. After some prints, the adhesion is getting weaker, but it is still much better than printing on the glass plate. Highly recommended.

 

Cheers

Alex

 

Thanks Alex, I've read through the thread already. The bed on my printer can't be switched out. The heating plate is covered with a PEI film glued to the plate. It works quite good. The new printer model has a replaceable heat plate of metal, so I might upgrade at a later point.

 

I cant stress enough the use of a raft or brim when your printing. gives the print a much wider base to the plate.

 

 

Yes, I used an 8mm brim but it still didn't work. I'm trying now with a glue stick, and it seem to work. I turned the print 90 degrees on the plate as well, don't know if it helps but tried it anyway.

 

Cheers