Radders Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Lego.... Genius. If it works mate, go for it. Regarding gluing the perspex, in the film industry... they used chloroform and I'm certain it also sticks other plastic to it too. I did have a 'large' bottle of it, but it's all gone now and I've never been able to get more.... I actually think you need a license now to hold it. But if you can get it, it's great.... PS: Will reply to the message shortly, been really busy..... daHeld and airscale 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Smart. I used lego's for a jig for my P-38 build. Worked great......Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Nice Peter, Have to keep an eye on this! airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Great project and start! 💃 So, my Dora 9 could not be placed in the Telford competion because it doesn't has plastic parts? Bye for now, Bernd. daHeld and airscale 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighter Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Great idea, but it'll become extremely heavy if filled with Lego, won't it? I always add a horizontal former to my fuselage skeletons and the whole thing becomes extremely rigid. The advantage is that it saves weight! Jeff, daHeld, Shaka HI and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Great project and start! So, my Dora 9 could not be placed in the Telford competion because it doesn't has plastic parts? Bye for now, Bernd. Thanks Bernd, Well this is what the entry rules state: Scratch built (S) · A model constructed where the main body parts (50 percent or more) and/or flying surfaces are home-made or vac-formed plastic, other than of a commercial nature. · The basic structure should be of plastic although a supporting (wooden) core is permitted. · A scratch built model may be detailed to any level desired by the modeller. All models are to be constructed as stated and defined. Metal foil, wood, veneer, paper, cloth, decal or any other material may be used to cover the model to represent a particular finish or to construct detail items. Such coverings or details must be cosmetic and not structural. The Spitfire I did was ok as the airframe is GRP and it was from a kit originally, but it seems clear that plastic needs to figure strongly as it is the IPMS - International PLASTIC Modellers Society, rather than model engineering where any medium would be acceptable HTH Peter Jeff, daHeld, Derek B and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
109 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Ok. Thanks for the info. Indeed, I use almost no plastic at all with the Dora. Have a nice day, Bernd. airscale and Alburymodeler 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) As I recall, IPMS USA contest rules used to stipulate that models be predominantly composed of plastic. But the current requirements are very liberal and only "encourage" the use of plastic. From the 2017 IPMS/USA National Contest Rules Book http://www.ipmsusa2017.com/index.cfm?mode=rules ... 2. Composition. The use of plastic is encouraged; however, the use of other modeling materials is allowed as the builder sees fit. Judging standards of finish, attention to detail, and authenticity will be the same, regardless of the materials used. Edited October 12, 2017 by allthumbs 109, daHeld, Out2gtcha and 1 other 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 I like the new rules! 109, airscale and Alburymodeler 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackCanopy Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Be careful, Peter There are people out there considering the gluing of Lego a sacrilege ... ;-) (Disclosure: I'm not one of them) airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guyman1 Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Beautiful work Peter I will be watching very closely as this unfolds. Guy airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 evening folks Great idea, but it'll become extremely heavy if filled with Lego, won't it? I always add a horizontal former to my fuselage skeletons and the whole thing becomes extremely rigid. The advantage is that it saves weight! Thanks Ben - brilliant counsel as usual - I wish I had thought of die cut formers like that! I have scrapped the lego idea as even if I had used it I was concerned about the rigidity and while I make brass U/C so weight is not a major issue, it did seem a lot of hassle and maybe not the best way the worst danger point is below the observers cockpit, there is not too much fuselage so flexing would be a problem. I decided to go fully agricultural on it and JB Welded a big length of hexagonal pbrass stock I bought when I bought my lathe - it is way too big for the scales I work in so it was sacrificed to add a good rigid structure along the fuselage length.. before that though I had to think about wing fixings - I had great success with my F7F using square brass tube so I looked up in the manual and found the dihedral to be 3 degrees 3 minutes - I got an online protractor and set out the angle & printed it so I could bend the mounts to the right angle - I have no tools for this so it was done by eye clamped to a fireplace! The sliding tubes that will be set in the wing are also used so you get a good view of the entire angle created.. ..then it was some heath robinson lash up on my bench to get the angle right in the fuselage... ..I did use some lego around the spars to add strength and the whole area is washed with CA so likely the wings break before the joints do.. ..it is starting to take shape - the key here is strength & dimensional accuracy.. ..also been using printouts of the PE to make sure that it fits the model when it arrives.. I think I might skin it and fill with foam, or maybe balsa & skin not sure yet.. making this up as I go along TTFN Peter Gazzas, Rainer Hoffmann, Derek B and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trak-Tor Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Well, well... that looks pretty massive!Great job! airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Peter, if you need some foam.... airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 DO NOT overlook opening up those cooling intakes on the upper corners frame 3 Peter! I never succeeded in making them look great in 72 scale, but there should be room in 18 scale, ..also been using printouts of the PE to make sure that it fits the model when it arrives.. I think I might skin it and fill with foam, or maybe balsa & skin not sure yet.. making this up as I go along TTFN Peter daHeld, airscale, sandokan and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now