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1:24 Trumpeter Bf 109G-14


LSP_K2

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12 hours ago, dodgem37 said:

Exhausts have a center-line weld as well.  Making progress.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Oh yes, in my post above (with the twelve stacks), I indicate as much. Thanks, Mark.

 

7 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

This is coming along swimmingly K2. I have yet to sit outside and work like that........................maybe I should try that while the weather is in the slim nice weather window. 

 

It can be very relaxing and cathartic; fresh air, nice breeze, and as Shawn says below, the sanding crud stays outside, a real nice bonus. Whenever possible, I try to have a small pile of parts ready to go, that require cleanup, specifically for the nicer weather days. It's just something that I've been doing for years now, and the weather is slowly approaching that nice balance here; not too hot, not too cold. I love it, I really do.

 

3 hours ago, Shawn M said:

i highly recommend working outside, especially when sanding or carving 

 

Given all the shade in your back yard, combined with the tables and chairs, you have an ideal environment for that too. If I wasn''t so concerned about my rust bucket of a car, I'd suggest that we get together for some outside hobby stuff; that'd be fun.

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Looking good Kevin. I'm sure you know this....but when I would put weld seams on one of my armor kits I would soak the stretched sprue in some liquid cement. Just until it started to sag when you held it straight out. Put it on the part and you could work the the top edge with a knife to put the weld "ripples" in it. :)

 

Dan

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3 hours ago, Daniel460 said:

Looking good Kevin. I'm sure you know this....but when I would put weld seams on one of my armor kits I would soak the stretched sprue in some liquid cement. Just until it started to sag when you held it straight out. Put it on the part and you could work the the top edge with a knife to put the weld "ripples" in it. :)

 

Dan

 

Yep, I do that too. Actually, on a small scale, the sprue actually wrinkles all by itself, (if enough liquid cement is applied). I also have a brand new soldering pen that I can use to add some cool weld marks, though being so small, even in 1:24 scale, I don't know if I'll bother or not; we'll see, I guess. All I really need now is a small rheostat, and I can do all sort of cool stuff with it. (I used a soldering iron to add zimmerit to a 1:35 King Tiger, and it turned out just great.

 

Thanks for the input, Dan. I'm really wanting to make this one as cool as possible, within reason. After the disappointment with my George, I've become re-energized to "get it right".

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2 minutes ago, Shawn M said:
  • yikes, what a mess. But I know you can whip it into shape

 

I used the kit panel on my K-4, and all things considered, think it came out OK. I actually see the IP's of the Trumpeter 1:24 kits to be pretty darned decent representations, OOB. Thanks, buddy.

 

JhVb4B.jpg

 

 

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The panel from the K-4 kit, is essentially the same panel as issued in the G-6 kit, so I added the additional weapons panel below, but won't have to do that to this G-14. This is my first attempt at that panel, but I can't find a photo of the one I rebuilt. I wasn't at all happy with this first attempt.

 

PEdZGh.jpg

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This is rather odd, in going through my Aero Detail books just now, I apparently no longer have the Bf 109G volume. I'm almost positive that I had it at one time, but I also recall selling off a few volumes, and perhaps that was one of them. Bummer.

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One item that I neglected to add, was the supercharger intake. Since there exists the possibility of this being seen through the intake, I've now gone ahead and added it. I actually had to shim it a bit, so as to be parallel with the crankcase, but it looks good, now that it's dry. I may also add some wire screen, something that looks better than the supplied checkerboard.

 

EgqO2i.jpg

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