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Mustang JBB

Has anyone use Milliput as a bonding agent on resin kits?

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I was thinking of mixing some milliput(or similar epoxy putty), rolling it out into long thin strips, then laying these strips over the contact areas on resin kits.  Instead of using CA or mixed liquid epoxy, use the milliput to bond the fuselage together.  Basically sandwiching a very thin layer of milliput between the parts, then trimming off the excess before curing.  Hopefully filling some gaps along the way.

 

Anyone ever tried this?  Any thoughts on pros and cons?  Experienced milliputers... any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

James B

Edited by Mustang JBB

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hmmm interesting, never thought about that, but then again i never tried it, might be an option.

Did you try it out yourself??

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Sounds intriguing for sure but the cost of some resin kits (cough HpH) makes it risky to be a pioneer in the field :)

If you have a cheaper test-bed kit to try it on, make sure you let us know how it goes.

 

You could experiment using chunks of the pour stubs first. Just to check how the materials interact

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I think Milliput would be too thick for this sort of job, though it's great for filling large gaps in any type of kit, because it does add significant strength to the join beyond what traditional putties or CA would.

 

Ke

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More inclined to use standard two-part epoxy glue personally - more messy than the cyanoacrylates, but gives useful 'wiggle' time.

 

I think Milliput would be too thick and can't see a reason to use an epoxy putty over an epoxy glue?

 

Iain

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I used it on my Kfir to hold some items like the wheelbays in place on the inside of the fuselage to make sure it was good and strong as well as no light getting through.  I would not advise it for joining small parts or something like joining halves as epoxy or superglue works best there.

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Yes, ditto. I've been using it to lock-in Aries wheel wells on A-7Es after being fixed in place with CA glue - belt and braces. It also fills in any tiny gaps.

 

Tony

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hmmm interesting, never thought about that, but then again i never tried it, might be an option.

Did you try it out yourself??

Not yet.  I am getting my ducks lined up to build the Fisher X-1B and was thinking of how to approach the different building phases.  I have used Milliput before as a gap filler and similar strengthening of hidden joints.  I am going to experiment with scraps as soon as can get back to my bench.  I am away for two weeks, and day dreaming about building.

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Sounds intriguing for sure but the cost of some resin kits (cough HpH) makes it risky to be a pioneer in the field :)

If you have a cheaper test-bed kit to try it on, make sure you let us know how it goes.

 

You could experiment using chunks of the pour stubs first. Just to check how the materials interact

The cost of the kit is definitely on my mind, that is why I am asking for advice.  As you suggest, I intend to experiment with scarps and pour stubs first.

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Personally, I would not do it for a simple reason: a Milliput seam will not resist to any shock... Keep in mind large scale kits means large parts and to glue fuselage parts, this is not really recommended as you need some structural strength.

 

As others wrote relying on epoxy glue is a far better solution and it offers similar gap-filling properties. However, as most glues, it is obviously less forgiving...

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I was thinking of mixing some milliput(or similar epoxy putty), rolling it out into long thin strips, then laying these strips over the contact areas on resin kits.  Instead of using CA or mixed liquid epoxy, use the milliput to bond the fuselage together.  Basically sandwiching a very thin layer of milliput between the parts, then trimming off the excess before curing.  Hopefully filling some gaps along the way.

 

Anyone ever tried this?  Any thoughts on pros and cons?  Experienced milliputers... any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

James B

 

Yes, I use epoxy putty as a glue of sorts to glue homemade backpacks, sandbags, and gear onto the the rear decks of tank models.  It's a pretty common technique among armor modelers.

 

I should point out I have only done it on styrene; I guess there could be a bonding issue with resin specifically, but I bet it would work fine.

 

This video tutorial discusses and shows what you are trying to do.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WckO9qShoRA

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