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3D Printing


SCRATCH BUILDER

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I am not in 3D design as many years as some fellow modelers here (I hear about people designing since 1990s). I may have few decades years experience as a traditional scale model (considering I built my first scale model when I was only 7yo), but the 3D is something new for me too and trying to do my best the last few years only.

 

Since I am the co-founder of the Anyuta 3D team (founded almost 10 years ago originally operated solely on digital projects for use in industrial construction), on early 2012 I thought as good idea to expanded into the scale modeling too by designing & manufacturing complete scale models, after market kits and accessories for the modeller who seeks something different. Nowdays, our Anyuta 3D team has two basic branches:

  • The main industrial design part and
  • The retail shop part for average modelers.

We create complete 3D printed model kits or partial 3D digital designs on behalf of international scale model companies to be used as master prototype miniatures and later get produced as injection molded model kits, available for sale into your local hobby shop. For example, have a look on the screenshots attached for some project CAD designed by our Anyuta 3D team as a commision work for well known international scale model companies - maybe you'll recognize the model kits found in hobbyshops too. As addition, we also provide custom work service for individual customers such as collectors & US and EU located military museums such as NASM, RAF halls, Deutsches museum, Merlin engines museum, DTM, etc. Finally, we keep online shop just for retail sales for the average scale modeler, with most reasonable prices.


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Although the Anyuta 3D team started very very very small, within few years became a multinational team composed of CAD designers and old fashioned scale model builders too. The last 3-4 years, we run a network of hand picked freelance CAD designers around the World and we forward to them 3D model orders to prepare the commision work we receive from our customers. Same time, a team of traditional scale modelers, figure painters & skilled craftsmen is also organised to build & paint as complete miniatures the 3D printed objects. Despite the fact I always enjoy designing myself and keep a first-person role on the 3D model building, after 2015 I decided to take a step back (for reasons that few fellow modelrs here already know) and assign parts of the huge workload on trusty associates (aka “Santa's helpersâ€) to run business easier, faster and get the work done more efficient. Today, I prefer most to have a general view of work and make the contact deal with customer factories & museums.

 

I always try to inspire people co-operating with Anyuta 3D team to always try to keep ears and eyes open to learn new things. Critisism sometimes is part of the process to become better.

 

Regards,

Nick / Anyuta 3D

 

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Ssculptor. Here is an idea for your Jeeps. In 1969 the Army decided to go from green to white on their missiles, including dummy training missiles. All ours were in a large hanger, so we opened the doors and without respirators went to work spraying. We got so high that we painted everything, including the vending machines and the Army jeeps wheels and all outside. We also got the commander's car, but no one else's.

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  • 5 months later...

I use Fusion 360 for my CAD program.  Its free, its simple to use, there are tons of how to videos.  CAD is a learning curve.  No 2 ways around that.  But when you get a drawing saved and you need to make improvements on that particular part, its simple to go back into the CAD file and make your changes.

 

For a 3D printer, I'm starting with the Snap-maker.  Small print area and it doesn't do fine small details (-1 mm) well.  but its a good introduction to the technology.

 

I've used a 3D printed part as a blank for forming annealed aluminium parts.....with good effect in my tests.  

 

Cheers, Dan

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello there,

 

for those who have problems with the material not sticking on the printing plate, this might be usefull: A spray glue for the printing plate. At room temperature, it's hardly sticky, but the higher the temerature is, the more sticky it gets. I made good experiences with the heated print plate at 100 degrees Celsius, when printing HIPS. After the print is finished, I let the plate cool down. When it is cold enought, there is a slightly cracking sound, and the printed object can be removed from the plate without any resistance. Great stuff!

 

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Cheers

Alex

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  • 1 month later...

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