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23 hours ago, airscale said:

Hi 3D folks

 

Looking for some guidance if I may

 

I have just designed the spinner for my 1/18 P51 in Rhino. I kept it to just the simple shape as last time when I did the Spitfire XIV all the rivets & stuff I put in didn't really come out..

 

the real one is natural metal and I have been dreading trying to skin it in litho..

 

WIP655_zpsxfyxsqs1.jpg

 

WIP654_zps5nl5llm2.jpg

 

now when I went to Shapeways to get the parts printed, I see you can choose Aluminium or steel rather than plastic ($87 or $37 just for the nosecone eek), if I choose Steel as it's cheaper, I then get a sub-option for the finish, in which there is 'Nickel' where it says it is polished to a smooth finish..

 

My question is has anyone had any 3D printing done in metal, and could it actually be the answer to my prayers where I get a metal spinner I can then scribe & detail without having to skin it?

 

Not sure how the process works at all - is this actual metal, or is it metal like 3D material?

 

Hope someone knows :)

TIA

Peter

 

 

Hi Peter, I've had some of this done before it's a bit tricky and the results are not that great, We had some done for the Drone prop blades cage for 'Isle of Dogs', the result was a bit gritty and they kept trying to push us in the direction of the resin loaded with metal powder for better results which was even worse.

I used to make stuff for model railways and always CNC stuff out and white metal cast the results are stunning if a bit long winded.

Graham

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3 hours ago, GrahamF said:

Hi Peter, I've had some of this done before it's a bit tricky and the results are not that great, We had some done for the Drone prop blades cage for 'Isle of Dogs', the result was a bit gritty and they kept trying to push us in the direction of the resin loaded with metal powder for better results which was even worse.

I used to make stuff for model railways and always CNC stuff out and white metal cast the results are stunning if a bit long winded.

Graham

 

 

Gah - just read this post after ordering @ 140 euros..:doh:

 

thanks for your input guys - I went with aluminium (could have had platinum at $9,400...)

 

I redid the design 4 times as I found out more about the spinner and found one buried drawing of the correct cut-out shape which I don't feel so bad about as even David Glen made the mistake I did originally by shaping them to the wrong profile on his 1/5 P51 (don't know if he even knows that tho) so will get the backplate & cone in ali and the hub in plastic

 

WIP657_zpsri7etbji.jpg

 

I am hoping I can polish out any coarseness, if not I will have to put it down to experience and see what they say - mind you, they won't deliver it until early April as it's ali so some time to wait..

 

Thanks again

Peter

 

 

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  • 1 year later...
On 2/8/2019 at 2:45 AM, jumpjack said:

For a 'frrebee' I would definitely recomend fusion- apart from anything else, there are basic tutorials for kids online to get you started double quick and it handles modelling type small scales with ease (unlike some others). I made my first complex hollowed out 3D model from scratch in under a fortnight.

Another plus for fusion is that it can  model direct from DWG imported from other programmes- in my case I use CorelDraw for most of my 2D and ship into Fusion 360 for modelling.

I would suggest looking up reviews. I'd also recommend it for how user-friendly it is to set up and troubleshoot, as you said you don't know a lot about printing. It is probably the best choice to use cura for slicing and it will take a couple of attempts to get the settings right. However there are plenty of sites and videos to help with that!

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I've been using Fusion for injection moulding tools this year and I find it very good, but as for drawing up I've stuck with rhino as I don't really have the time or need to use it for drawing. One bug bear I find is that it relies on the internet so living in a third world country like the UK that can cause problems. The rendering function seems superior though.

Graham 

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