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SCRATCH BUILDER

3D Printing

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I have taken a long hard  look at that Ben, for $500.00 i don't think you can go wrong, should bet great for all the little bits.

Edited by SCRATCH BUILDER

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Hi there,

I want to share some experience with my Anycubic Photon 3d printer. I read some positive comments about the Phrozen ABS like grey resin. I gave it a try, and made a radial engine. Here, the various cylinders are sticking on the print plate, still covered with liquid resin. They all sit on support struts, which can be easily removed after printing.

ysZkGtU.jpg

RStw9tc.jpg

After cleaning in Isopropyl alcohol, that’s how it turned out.

dhGZAWg.jpg

RlbbQ7O.jpg

The whole diameter of the engine is about 4 cm. Looks promising for a 400 € printer :frantic:

Cheers

Alex

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Nice Alex, I made some 1/16 scale servos for my V1 project. what settings are you using for the Phrozen ABS like grey resin

 

7 minutes ago, Jennings Heilig said:

Just to make it easier to paint/finish??

Hey Jennings,

Thats correct, FDM printer/Resin printer it's all the same, Alex would have had to put in support structure if he printed as one piece, he would have to support all the overhanging material and it would have been way to hard to clean up

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20 hours ago, AlexM said:

Hi there,

 

I want to share some experience with my Anycubic Photon 3d printer. I read some positive comments about the Phrozen ABS like grey resin. I gave it a try, and made a radial engine. Here, the various cylinders are sticking on the print plate, still covered with liquid resin. They all sit on support struts, which can be easily removed after printing.

 

ysZkGtU.jpg

RStw9tc.jpg

After cleaning in Isopropyl alcohol, that’s how it turned out.

 

dhGZAWg.jpg

 

 

RlbbQ7O.jpg

 

The whole diameter of the engine is about 4 cm. Looks promising for a 400 € printer :frantic:

 

 

Cheers

Alex

IN the pictures no layer lines are showing.  Have you worked any of these parts to remove them or is this printer producing completely smooth parts?

thx

 

Gary

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Wow, those parts look really clean and very nice, especially for 3D printed parts. 

 

3 minutes ago, ghatherly said:

Have you worked any of these parts to remove them or is this printer producing completely smooth parts?

 

I would like to know that as well.................usually parts made on home printing 3D printers, the "stepping" is very noticeable, even in 3D printed parts that came in my 1/32nd Extra 330. These dont appear to have any of that. 

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Agreed. I think this year might be the year I pull the trigger on one of these. I'm learning the modeling software now, should be up to speed in a few months, so maybe this summer.

 

Tim

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12 minutes ago, BiggTim said:

I'm learning the modeling software now, should be up to speed in a few months, so maybe this summer.

 

 

Thats my issue, is what program to get and learn to make stuff on the 3D printers. 

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1 minute ago, Out2gtcha said:

 

 

Thats my issue, is what program to get and learn to make stuff on the 3D printers. 

 

I chose Fusion 360, as I work with Autodesk software a lot, and there are some similarities in design. I believe Steve (Model Monkey) uses it, and likes it. Plus, they have a free "startup" license that is open-ended for people who just use it for their own purposes or for small run stuff to sell, up to 100k a year, I think. If I made that much, I'd happily pay for it. There are lots of fantastic tutorials on Youtube.

 

Tim

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Just now, BiggTim said:

 

I chose Fusion 360, as I work with Autodesk software a lot, and there are some similarities in design. I believe Steve (Model Monkey) uses it, and likes it. Plus, they have a free "startup" license that is open-ended for people who just use it for their own purposes or for small run stuff to sell, up to 100k a year, I think. If I made that much, I'd happily pay for it. There are lots of fantastic tutorials on Youtube.

 

 

Good to know!  I know there are a LOT of programs out there , and its tough to know which one to get as its quite a commitment (as you already know!) once you decide on which program to start to learn. 

 

Im going to try to save up for one this year myself, as I genuinely think this is the way of the future for the hobby, and could open up whole new avenues for us, not available in the past. 

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2 hours ago, ghatherly said:

IN the pictures no layer lines are showing.  Have you worked any of these parts to remove them or is this printer producing completely smooth parts?

thx

 

Gary

I'm sure there would be some on the hub but there so small and i mean small that primer will blend them. And the orientation the he printed the cylinder heads at there would be no print lines ( printed at .05mm ) 

 

 

1 hour ago, BiggTim said:

Agreed. I think this year might be the year I pull the trigger on one of these. I'm learning the modeling software now, should be up to speed in a few months, so maybe this summer.

 

Tim

 

 

I recommend the ANYCUBIC, a few of us have it and for $500.00 its your best bet to get started, I have had mine 3 months now and not a failed print (you do have to level it correctly). there resin is cheaper, but it is open source so you could use any resin you want. I post some pictures here of my prints.

 

 

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22 minutes ago, SCRATCH BUILDER said:

I recommend the ANYCUBIC, a few of us have it and for $500.00 its your best bet to get started, I have had mine 3 months now and not a failed print (you do have to level it correctly). there resin is cheaper, but it is open source so you could use any resin you want. I post some pictures here of my prints.

 

Yes, that is exactly what I am planning to get! Your experiences here as well as some other sources have convinced me that this is the best route for the type of things I want to do. I'm looking forward to it, but I have to save up....

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15 hours ago, Jennings Heilig said:

Pardon my noob question - if you were going to 3D print a radial engine, why wouldn’t you print the whole engine as one piece instead of a bunch of parts you have to assemble?  Just to make it easier to paint/finish??

 

As Rick (SCRATCH BUILDER) said, somehow you have to outsmart gravity. Actually you can print at a certain overhanging angele, and even some vertical areas without support below. But to longer the distance, the higher the risk of a failed print. For example, if this engine would be printed as one part, the thin pushrods (0,7 mm diameter) would lay pretty flat "in the air", only connected to the main engine at both ends. I havent tried yet, but I suppose such a print wouldn't look great. You could add support-structure under those areas in the printing software, but it would be a pain to remove the support after printing.

 

And as you said, it propably makes painting easier ;)

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15 hours ago, SCRATCH BUILDER said:

Nice Alex, I made some 1/16 scale servos for my V1 project. what settings are you using for the Phrozen ABS like grey resin

 

Hi Rick, thanks! My settings are:

 

Normal exposure time (s): 16

Off time (s): 0

Bottom exposre time (s) 90

Bottom layers: 8

 

I haven't tried if other settings would lead to reasonable results in shorter time, but with those settings, my printed parts with this resin turned out nice so far.

And for me as a hobbyist, time isn't really a critical factor. But even with those settings, the prints go pretty fast. One batch of cylinder takes just a bit more than two hours.

 

Here is a overview with recommended settings from other Anycubic users:

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/edit#gid=0

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