bdthoresen Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Lovely work so far. I am enjoying this thread. I am curious, though why you used the mask for the rudder fabric on the vertical tail to apply primer? Keep the updates coming. THOR Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 I have almost completed riveting both wing upper and lower surfaces. Only some details to be done (pictures hopefully in a few days from now). One thing where I am stuck are the leading edges. I have seen photos and manual drawings that show inner ribs (see photo below, the leading edge is in the center in front of the wing). However, the rivets are hard to see on photos and most modelers who have riveted a Fw 190 have not added any rivets to the leading edges. I have added a photo where you can see the rivets below. Does anybody have a better picture of the leading edge (inside and outside where the rivets can be seen)? Martinnfb and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 (edited) Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting. Cheers, Roger Edited April 13, 2020 by VintageEagle nmayhew, Greg W, Kais and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterOlsen Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 Hi Roger, beautiful rivet work, very neat, well done ! Cheers, Peter Martinnfb and VintageEagle 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 Beautiful riveting work! Which tool did you use? VintageEagle and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 2 hours ago, PeterOlsen said: Hi Roger, beautiful rivet work, very neat, well done ! Cheers, Peter Hi Peter, many thanks for your kind comments! Cheers, Roger 58 minutes ago, Thunnus said: Beautiful riveting work! Which tool did you use? Hi John, thank you very much! I have been a close follower of your Bf 109 and Fw 190 builds. They are among the best I have ever seen. I used a RB riveter wheel (0.75mm) for most rivets, a riveter punch tool for the larger rivets on and around the wing main spar (I think it is a jeweler tool, most likely the one that you also use) and for individual rivets a scribing tool with a pointed metal tip. I'd say 60% of the work was studying photos and documents to figure out the pattern. Cheers, Roger D.B. Andrus and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 It looks like you are using the same type of tools that I'm using. You're doing excellent work and I hope that you can get the cannon fairings worked out! Martinnfb and VintageEagle 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted April 15, 2020 Author Share Posted April 15, 2020 12 hours ago, Thunnus said: It looks like you are using the same type of tools that I'm using. You're doing excellent work and I hope that you can get the cannon fairings worked out! Thank you! I have tried to use a Evergreen plastic tube to fabricate the canon fairings, but was not that successful. I may order the EagleParts fairings and then see which solution looks best. Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Man! that's alotta rivets Roger. Very well done Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 A whole lot of Rosie the riveter going on there. Looks fantastic. Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageEagle Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) Finally a new update. After the tedious work of riveting the wings, I planned to build the landing gear wheel wells out of the box. But that plan was soon abandoned and I ended up investing (too) many hours again for upgrading the wheel wells. So far, so good. The Eduard P/E parts are fragile and I hope everything will hold together when installing and painting the wheel wells. I did a few modifications which I have summarized in the photo below. Meanwhile, I have also received the excellent landing gear legs from 'Synthetic Ordnance Works'. The oleo strut is not only metallic like the real strut, the whole leg is also much stronger due to the internal metal structure. I like that the outside (except the strut) is plastic as I can more easily work with this material than with bronze like Eduard's aftermarket legs. I first thought (wrongly!) that Eduard got the lenght right, but it was the opposite: the Eduard legs are too short (fully compressed oleo strut) and 'Synthetic Ordnance Works' got it right (see other photos). Next will be painting, then installing some pipes and wires in the whee wells. Then installing it into the wings/fuselage. Cheers, Roger Edited May 6, 2020 by VintageEagle TAG, MikeMaben, Kais and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 VintageEagle and Martinnfb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misha71 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 great work. you have done fantastic job Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 hi, can you post a proper side by side of the synth works legs and the brassin ones? all the talk was that the kit legs were too long / the extension was too great and simulated an aircraft suspended - not even bearing its own weight - when the kit came out I seem to remember, and by their own admission synth works have copied the kit parts in terms of dimensions beautiful work by the way!! Martinnfb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Hi Roger Here are some process shots of how I dealt with outboard wing gun port using some aluminum tubing: HTH, Damian MikeMaben, 109, Lothar and 8 others 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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