Joel_W Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 Joel, you're rocking this build, my friend! Looking good! Ernie, Thanks. I giving it my best effort. I'm just not in the same class of builder as you are. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 The only real accuracy issues I've heard of are the landing gear being slightly too close together, which is an easy 20 minute fix. I recently also heard the prop diameter might be slightly off, but Harold has resin fixes for that. My issue with the kit was that they must have used a restored rebuilt airplane as a pattern, because it's like goulash. A little it of this, a little bit of that.... To make a truly accurate period T-6 from a certain time, place, and service branch or nation, you need to do your research. The vac canopies available really help the cause greAtly. The 1:1 prototype for the T-6 kit was "Deb", the warbird illustrated on the boxart. Basically a SNJ-3 with a lot of new parts coming from T-6 Gs ... The different versions of the T-6 are an actual minefield when researching them. I spent a lot of time trying to list the differences between versions in a systematic way when working on a projected resin kit. I stopped everything when Glen told me he was working on an IM kit. With hindsight, I should have shared more of my findings with Glen, but I thought then that he had help closer to his place. He and I discussed later that he had not fully realised the warbird was not the best source for reference ... As for the OV-10, Joel, grit your teeth. I am sure you will prevail and achieve another masterpiece Hubert Harold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 This picture is so valuable. I have googled and I have never seen this one before. It shows the biggest error KH did in my opinion. The parachute packs (the red items on your kit) are on the left on the front seat, and on the right in the rear to ensure proper separation between the seats... KH made both for the right side. I don't know if it is fixable, but I will pick the AMS seats when they are available again soon from Sprue Brothers. I am looking forward to building mine, and I am gleening as much as I can from your build, I'm slightly jealous actually. Mine will be with 20 Zuni's Also last interruption, did anyone see if Master Models have M-60's in this scale? would be awesome with metal barrels for this one... Anyway, thanks for a lovely build! Shaka HI and Harold 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Clunkmeister Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 The 1:1 prototype for the T-6 kit was "Deb", the warbird illustrated on the boxart. Basically a SNJ-3 with a lot of new parts coming from T-6 Gs ... The different versions of the T-6 are an actual minefield when researching them. I spent a lot of time trying to list the differences between versions in a systematic way when working on a projected resin kit. I stopped everything when Glen told me he was working on an IM kit. With hindsight, I should have shared more of my findings with Glen, but I thought then that he had help closer to his place. He and I discussed later that he had not fully realised the warbird was not the best source for reference ... As for the OV-10, Joel, grit your teeth. I am sure you will prevail and achieve another masterpiece Hubert I truly feel Glen's heart is in the right place. Like you said Hubert, the T-6/SNJ/Harvard is a minefield of versions and variations. Not only its different versions and marks, but then all the Countries who used made their own modifications and changes. Canada produced them as a modernized version well into the 1950s as well. Then today, what's the chance of finding a truly original T-6? Probably about zero. They've all been flown to death, crashed, recrashed, built, rebuilt, crashed again, scooped into barns and covered for decades, dug out, rebuilt from piles of rubble into runaround fun "warbirds", and then we have to figure out what's correct and what's not? I'm just happy to have a kit out there with an accurate T-6 shape that, with some research and scratchbuilding, can become just about any T-6 you want, from the earliest SNJ right up to the last Harvard produced in Canada. As for the OV-10, I will become much more serious when we get brass gear. Until then, I wait... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Clunkmeister Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) Joel, we have a nice T-28 pit coming out. Soon I hope, we get an OV-10 pit as well. A fancy, accurate resin pit will really wake this kit up. It's by far the most visible cockpit I've seen in a modern aircraft. Edited September 16, 2017 by Clunkmeister Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyrosjzmichos Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hey Joel! That's some great progress you're making there! This model proves how challenging Kitty Hawk models generally but you seem to be getting over these issues nicely. The wooden wing spars are a smart solution! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 The 1:1 prototype for the T-6 kit was "Deb", the warbird illustrated on the boxart. Basically a SNJ-3 with a lot of new parts coming from T-6 Gs ... The different versions of the T-6 are an actual minefield when researching them. I spent a lot of time trying to list the differences between versions in a systematic way when working on a projected resin kit. I stopped everything when Glen told me he was working on an IM kit. With hindsight, I should have shared more of my findings with Glen, but I thought then that he had help closer to his place. He and I discussed later that he had not fully realised the warbird was not the best source for reference ... As for the OV-10, Joel, grit your teeth. I am sure you will prevail and achieve another masterpiece Hubert Hubert, Your heart certainly is in the right place with your willingness to share your findings with Glen with the goal being a much more accurate T-6. I'm just not so sure that the powers to be would have made those corrections if the CAD work was already completed or nearly so. At this point it is what it is. As for the OV-10, I'm giving it my best, but like I said, the kit just keeps on fighting back with issues after issues. Joel Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) This picture is so valuable. I have googled and I have never seen this one before. It shows the biggest error KH did in my opinion. The parachute packs (the red items on your kit) are on the left on the front seat, and on the right in the rear to ensure proper separation between the seats... KH made both for the right side. I don't know if it is fixable, but I will pick the AMS seats when they are available again soon from Sprue Brothers. I am looking forward to building mine, and I am gleening as much as I can from your build, I'm slightly jealous actually. Mine will be with 20 Zuni's Also last interruption, did anyone see if Master Models have M-60's in this scale? would be awesome with metal barrels for this one... Anyway, thanks for a lovely build! Winnie, Thanks for stopping by and checking out the OV-10 build to date. I came across that picture after I finished the seats, so that they stayed the way they were with the packs on the right side of both seats. My goal right from the start was a busy enough cockpit to fool the viewers eye. The key to that without any question is the white wire bundles. So that's where I put my efforts. I added enough bundles to create the effect that I was looking for, and I still just might add another bundle or two. My concerns has for the last few weeks focused solely on the wing issues caused by the way over engineering of how many panels can we comprise to make the rather complicated wing especially with the twin engine booms. After looking at the short inner panel I've come to the conclusion that since the panel is one piece, and the upper middle section is one piece, and that the opposite panel fits correctly, the issue is that the short panel is indeed just molded a few mm to short. The missing female receptacles for the alignment pins for the center section is still a all time 1st for me. IMHO KH has gotten a lot better with this offering, but it still falls way short in execution of what a modeler really wants and expects. I'm 0 for 3 with KH kits. I'll just wait till they finally figure out the entire process before I buy another KH kit. Until then, my Kingfisher will continue to seat on a shelf in my stash gathering dust. Joel Edited September 14, 2017 by Joel_W Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hey Joel! That's some great progress you're making there! This model proves how challenging Kitty Hawk models generally but you seem to be getting over these issues nicely. The wooden wing spars are a smart solution! Spyros, Thanks buddy for stopping by, it's much appreciated. While I'm very slowly making progress, I'm indeed making some. As for the wooden spars I lucked out, as they're very strong in the configuration I used. But the bottom line is that I had them in house, but didn't have any brass square tubing. Joel Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmusky Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hi Joel Great work on the pit, been following along for tips just a pity it's taking so much work. I was hoping it was going to be a fall together type of kit, but as your proving it certainly isn't that, so much so I thought I can't be bothered with the hassle just sell it on but since I've always had a soft spot for the Bronco I'll keep it in the stash and continue to follow your great work and make some notes for when I do get the nerve to attempt it. Keep going on the good work mate. Darren Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Hi Joel Great work on the pit, been following along for tips just a pity it's taking so much work. I was hoping it was going to be a fall together type of kit, but as your proving it certainly isn't that, so much so I thought I can't be bothered with the hassle just sell it on but since I've always had a soft spot for the Bronco I'll keep it in the stash and continue to follow your great work and make some notes for when I do get the nerve to attempt it. Keep going on the good work mate. Darren Darren, Thanks so much for stopping by and leaving a post, it's really much appreciated. I'm not a fan of the Kitty Hawks philosophy of how many pieces they can make each sub assembly out of. multi piece fuselage halves, 4 piece cowls, overly complicated engines and engine mounts, only leads to excess frustration by those attempting the build, with what I'm betting is a higher percentage of SODs, and others that were contemplating buying the kits, just opting on taking a pass. While I'm still trying to find the time this week to take pictures of the wing/fuselage joints now, I've been frustrated by the anti-glare panel fit issues. Again, no real alignment points, coupled with a super tight fit inside the windscreen, I'd had to more then once remove it, and try again. I've done that so many times, that I now have to repaint the anti glare panel. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 (edited) Been a while since my last update due to a combination of work, bad back issues (once again), and my continuing battle with the main wing lower section fit. As I previously said in a post, I decided that I had to correct the issue of the one inner wing panel not matching up to the fuselage wing flaring to the point of actually being under it. This drove me nuts, as both the top center section and the lower sections are each one piece. there isn't any reason for this that I could think of, other then some change in the mold for the one inner wing section. The dihedral is just way to flat in cross section. Your also notice that to align the leading edge, the rear flap edge isn't flush with the top surface flap edge, while the dihedral is clearly to flat in cross section. Yet in Brian's build it's flush. I just can't figure it out. So the only solution I could think of was to cut a slit in the center of the inner panel, then using a plastic wedge to pry both sides up and try to keep them even. I also used some plastic strips to support the cut adjustments from the bottom Well I got close, but some sanding and blending in with Bondo was needed. After all the work, here's the fit on both sides. the other inner section still fits fine and now the other wing section that didn't fit, now does. Almost perfectly I might add. the slight issues on the leading edge joints is mostly from it being just a dry fit without any tape or clamping. Now I can finish painting the anti glare panel, mask, and install the front windscreen. Joel Edited September 17, 2017 by Joel_W Shaka HI, Hubert Boillot and Starfighter 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandy 1 VX 4 Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 (edited) Joel it looks like your kit might have gotten warm and Warped Edited September 17, 2017 by Vandy 1 VX 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Dog Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Or was pulled from the dies too quickly and there was some slump in the plastic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandy 1 VX 4 Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Or was pulled from the dies too quickly and there was some slump in the plastic Especially if the lower wing section was in towards the center of the mold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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