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Tamiya Birdcage Corsair

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Bryan,

 

The weathering looks spot-on! However, I have a few questions. By the sheen of the paint it seems pretty obvious you applied the oil to a flat coat surface, is that correct? Also, what type of thinner did you use to blend the oil in?

 

Thanks

Elmo

 Hey Elmo, I forgot to mention that I'm using Mig's Enamel odorless thinner.

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Hey guys, I really appreciate the comments!  It really helps me figure out this weathering thing along the way.

 

Chuck, thanks for checking in and I appreciate the comments.  I've followed your builds for a long time and learned a lot from your techniques along with some of the other great modelers on the site.  I am using MRP paints for the most part with a few Mr. Color paints thrown in.  I really like MRP and if you can deal with the odor, I highly recommend them.  This is coming from someone who has used several different paints in the past.  But this is also coming from someone who has a big paint booth to deal with toxic paint.  MRP really sprays nice but so does Mr. Color.  I don't know how to explain it but MRP almost feels like I'm powder coating my model.  I know that doesn't make a lot sense but it covers extremely well with very little paint and being so thin, it doesn't start covering up all those nice details like panel lines and rivets.  That is really important to me because I do the black basing and you would think that would require more paint but its just the opposite.  I highly recommend those with a paint booth give them a try.

 

So a bit of a lesson learned for me.  I did use a gloss coat but the salt weathering dulled the finish a bit.  When doing my first round of weathering this actually worked to my advantage since the oils seem to stick better, almost as if it were staining the paint a bit.  When I applied another gloss coat to seal up my initial weathering, it didn't do as well.  It was difficult to work the oils into the paint.  I was able to make it look okay but it required a lot more work.  

 

So while I'm weathering the bottom, I'm unknowingly putting my prints all over the top which easily wiping the oils off.  It comes off so easily, I mean barely touch it and its gone.  So I think its better to do this on a semi gloss finish since it will give the oils something to hold onto.  I have Mig's Encyclopedia of Aircraft modeling techniques and it mentions using semi gloss finish for weathering with oils.  Very good books by the way.  

 

So I've ordered some MRP semi gloss and it will hopefully be here in a few days.  I have some Alclad semi gloss but it takes forever to dry if it does at all.  So I'll kinda be in a holding pattern for a few days.

 

Again thanks to everyone for checking in.  Hopefully some of you guys learn from me so I can give something back to the forum...

 

Bryan

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Bryan,

   I wouldn' thave guessed that you've never used the dot method before. It came out perfect. so perfect that I'm going to go back you using that technique again, which I haven't used since my armor days.

 

Joel

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A bit more weathering.  I clear coated the weathered areas to keep everything in place and so I could add a bit more.  This is as far as I want to go in this area and I probably will blend everything a bit more...

 

Tg92uM.jpg

 

hwBFcR.jpg

When you do the chipping, I know you use a stiff brush. Do you wet the area too?

 

I also us Mr. Color and Mr. Paint so I am very interested in this process.

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When you do the chipping, I know you use a stiff brush. Do you wet the area too?

 

I also us Mr. Color and Mr. Paint so I am very interested in this process.

 

You got it... Just a stiff brush and water.  I went really slow so I wouldn't take too much off.  I thought I would have to fight it but it came off fairly easily.  Just make sure you clear coat the area when you are finished if you plan to mask the area.  Ask me how I know.  I had some lifting along the front of the wings.  Using a clear coat fixed that for the most part.

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After a nice holiday weekend with my son, I'm back to modeling.  While I had everything glossed up, I did a panel line wash with Ammo blue dirt on the blue areas. I use Ammo medium gray for the white areas.  

 

I resprayed the fuel stains for about the tenth time trying to get them right and then covered everything with MRP semi gloss.  The semi gloss really helped the oil bite into the surface better.  It felt like the oils were just sliding around when the surface was totally glossed up.

 

I used my Abteilung dark mud and dotted the areas around the fuel stains and did the same with Abteilung dust for the inside.

 

Like this:

 

YeE8Ik.jpg

 

 

Then started to blend them in like this:

 

Qaor7O.jpg

 

 

Ended up with this:

 

It6KiI.jpg

 

 

Same with the other side:

 

q4yXXG.jpg

 

 

I like this side much better.  I'm not crazy about the other side but decided that I'm just gonna have to live with it.  I just can't keep redoing it hoping for a better result.  Don't get me wrong, I'm fairly happy with it but it's just not entirely what I was going for.

 

Thanks for stopping in guys...

 

Bryan

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Gmmm....Sorry, but i hawe one question - US planes in WW2 hawe stars оn two wings from above?

In the beginning, yes. F2As, F4Fs, F4Us, and F6Fs had the roundel in 6 positions, but this was later reduced to 4. Not exactly sure why; maybe the thought was 4 insignias on the wings negated the value of camouflage or something like that.

 

I know towards the end of the war the Navy experimented with over-painting the insignias of Hellcats and Avengers in gray, to reduce their visibility during night time operations.....

 

-d-

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