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Tamiya Birdcage Corsair


Durangokid
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Peter, 

 

I forgot to tell you that I use a toothpick to apply the Maskol.  I also had a problem with it drying and ruining the brush.  I flatten the toothpick on one end kinda in the shape of a flat paint brush.  I use that end for the big stuff and the pointed end for the more detailed parts.  It has worked perfectly for me and in fact, I have more control than using an actual brush.

 

Hope that helps you buddy...

Thanks Bryan for the additional information. Toothpicks are indeed some of the most versatile tools in making models :)

 

I assume you airbrushed the Mig heavy chipping fluid. How long did you let the last coat dry until you airbrushed the MRP paint and did you do the chipping with a wet brush?

 

I find the comparison between yours and Carl's chipping interesting.

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IMG_20161231_160406.jpg

 

Yours represents chipping, that is paint flaking off and the effect is very realistic. Carl's on the other hand does look more like wear from ground crew sliding off the wing and looks very good too. Maybe the optimal effect would be a mixture of both methods where appropriate. I guess the study of pictures is the best guide.

 

As I said, this is just an observation from someone who hasn't done any chipping to the levels shown here.

 

Looking forward seeing your progress.

Cheers, Peter

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Hey Durango, killer work for sure.

 

As far as black basing and chipping check out Doogsmodels blog. He does a 1/32 corsair where the black is applied after the chipping fluid and before the blue. When it's chipped back the black and blue stick together as one one and you can't see the edge of the black. Check it out it's very well written.

 

Keep it up!

Kyle

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Hey guys,

 

First round of weathering is done, although I have a hard time capturing how it looks on camera.  This was done with just my airbrush, next will be some oil weathering along with some other tricks.

 

I didn't go to heavy with the weathering and since I decided to do Cupp's corsair, I didn't go to heavy with the fuel stains.  I only have two photos of his plane and the fuels stains weren't real strong, at least not that I could tell.

 

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I'm gonna add some subtle chipping to the tail planes and the ammo box areas but for the most part I'm done weathering with the airbrush.

 

What do you guys think?  I'm kinda thinking it could use a bit more since these things got pretty trashed out there in the pacific.  Hopefully with the rest of the weathering I have planned will dirty it up enough...

 

Thanks for stopping by guys!

 

Bryan

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Thanks Bryan for the additional information. Toothpicks are indeed some of the most versatile tools in making models :)

 

I assume you airbrushed the Mig heavy chipping fluid. How long did you let the last coat dry until you airbrushed the MRP paint and did you do the chipping with a wet brush?

 

 

 

Glad I could be of some help Peter.  I didn't wait long to start the chipping although I don't think it really mattered.  I went back and chipped a bit more the next day and it was still coming off with no problem.

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Hey Durango, killer work for sure.

 

As far as black basing and chipping check out Doogsmodels blog. He does a 1/32 corsair where the black is applied after the chipping fluid and before the blue. When it's chipped back the black and blue stick together as one one and you can't see the edge of the black. Check it out it's very well written.

 

Keep it up!

Kyle

 

Hey Kyle, thanks for the heads up!  I took a look and I think I will give that a shot next time.  I'll probably try it on a piece of scrap to make sure it will work with the MRP and Mr. Color paints but I don't see why it wont.  I'm starting a Avenger so that would be a great method to try...

 

Bryan

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Bryan,

   I'm a PTO modeler when I have the option of era and theather, but my weathering has been on the mild side. After seeing yours and Carl's techniques, the results speak for themselves.  Think it's time I kick it up a few notches myself. 

 

   Looking forward to your next update.

 

Joel

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I've found its a lot easier to paint the 1" walkway lines and the anti skid areas last. Dark colours cover over light colours better and its just easier to get straight lines with wide pieces to tape than it is to lay down a strip of tape exactly the width of the 1" line and keep it straight.

 

Time consuming i know, but taking shortcuts in this hobby has its limits.

 

-d-

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Bryan,

   I'm a PTO modeler when I have the option of era and theather, but my weathering has been on the mild side. After seeing yours and Carl's techniques, the results speak for themselves.  Think it's time I kick it up a few notches myself. 

 

   Looking forward to your next update.

 

Joel

 

Hey Joel,  

   I'm totally with you on that one.  Before a build I always say I'm going to weather the crap outta this thing but it's a different story when it comes time to do the actual work.  I'm worried about going to far making it unrealistic or ruining all of the hard work I put into it.  I think its just a matter of doing more and more as we go along.  I think I'm just finally getting there and if I can do it, anyone can.  And I really mean that...

 

 

I've found its a lot easier to paint the 1" walkway lines and the anti skid areas last. Dark colours cover over light colours better and its just easier to get straight lines with wide pieces to tape than it is to lay down a strip of tape exactly the width of the 1" line and keep it straight.

 

Time consuming i know, but taking shortcuts in this hobby has its limits.

 

-d-

 

Hey David,

   Since I did the black basing on this one, I think it may have been better to do it the other way, especially since I have the mask set from Maketar which includes masks for the lines.  On the other hand, it was easier to make it look warn with the chipping.  So it's probably good either way I guess...

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