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Mark_C

Aerotech Mew Gull

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Kev,

 

The Shelf of Doom?  That sounds so final . . .

 

It's just another Group Build for stalled and unfinished projects - don't be frightened by the title! We've moved a few builds over from the Jurassic Plastic GB already. But I'm happy to move it wherever you'd like to continue posting about it.

 

Kev

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Kev,

 

I don't think it matters, really.  If I can't finish this thing by November (the C.T.S.O.D deadline), then it'll deserve to be there.

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Mark, I've known John Simons for years, since he used to sprint a rather nice Bevan replica Imp. In the model car world (from which I mainly come) he has always had a reputation for being a picky devil, but clearly from the reviews I read of his model aircraft kits he has given that aspect up.  How can anyone sign off a master which is so far out left to right?  How can anyone picky not spot a badly formed corner?  How can he go through the endless and almost always (these days) long winded photo-etching process without checking measurements.

I speak as a master maker. I have always wanted to do John's stuff, but resolutely got nowhere. I also used to do really nice exploded view drawings for his chum who does the Indy cars, but chum appears to be as tight as John is and wouldn't pay what it costs to do a good drawing any more.  In fact all your ills with this kit smack of corner cutting and money saving, which, considering the cost of the kit, is inexcusable.

 

Compare, if you will, the products of the Czech Republic and marvel at what they can do with resin, supported by their p/e makers and decal producers.  There is NO EXCUSE for the kind of problems you have endured. I would have insisted on my money back long before now.

 

I can see that you will finish this and make a good job of it, but can just as well see you scratchbuiding the next one!  Civil/"Golden era" aircraft need all the help they can get and do NOT need this kind of expensive shabbiness to put people off the genre.

 

Cheers,

Martin

Edited by GuildAero

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Oh my! What a battle!

 

I hadn't looked in on this one before and just read through the thread to follow your fight with this thing! You've really done wonders and are winning the wrestling match. It's a beautiful little aircraft, and you're taming it out of that difficult collection of resin. Good for you for persevering, it's paying off. I'm sure you've learned a lot!

 

Richard

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Thank you both, Richard and Martin.

 

I feel I have learned quite a bit, which is good.  And considering how many hours I have in it already, the cost per hour is pretty low.  My next big adventure will be the canopy and paint jobs.  I must learn how to achieve a really nice gloss white finish . . .

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Mark, I always tell sprayers to "pretend you're a robot".  Do it in nice steady (but not too slow) passes beginning before the model, ending after it and make sure you can turn the model as you go.  Of course wings complicate things a bit, but if there's any overspray, you can polish it out. Depends on how long your paint takes to dry.  I would recommend Zero paints and then use a simple gloss coat after decalling, like Lechler's Akrifan. One shot, spray ready and dries like glass.  I paid 20 quid a litre, which will last me years.

 

Martin

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Thank you, Alain.  I have hopes for this little beast.  This weekend I shall attack the cockpit canopy.  I must face my fears!

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Oh, Hell, I didn't realise you were in America.  But then again, don't you still have cellulose in America?  What I believe you call lacquer?  If so, there's your answer. Zero is basically cellulose, "only different" says the guy who makes it.  

 

Cheers,

Martin

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Thanks again, Martin.  I may give that a shot.  I understand Tamiya acrylics respond well to lacquer, and I have some Gunze lacquer solvent.

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Mark, I have found that the few Tamiya rattle cans I've used (very satisfactorily) have reeked of pear drops, a sure sign they are mainly cellulose (lacquer) whatever they say it is.  I have also happily sprayed Zero paint over well dried Tamiya with no problems and Zero is definitely cellulose based.

 

Where I'm in any doubt I use enamel, as in a half litre tin from the auto refinishers' shop.  I have a tin of black which has done my wife's trike's mudguards and a 4 foot model yacht and hardly seems to have gone down the tin!  I only use Tamiya if I can offset the charge, but they are the same price as Halfords rattle cans from the big auto supplier store.

 

Martin

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Good to know, Martin.  So far I'm just using their acrylic matt aluminum thinned with X-20, their acrylic thinner, over bare resin.  It seems to grip well.  I will do some small repairs and the respray, wait for it to cure, and then try either Gloss White directly over the silver, or else Flat followed by Gloss White.

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