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1:48 Mauve P-40N "Lope's Hope"

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Well, it's time to stop lurking and get to work on my stash.

Life gets in the way but maybe posting my build here will help with my "mojo" and keep me motivated.

As for true LSP, I have a ZM Mustang and a Tamiya Corsair to do.  Also there's a T-6 Texan.

However, those have a lot of parts and I need a simpler build to get my juices flowing again.

I really should do "out of the box" but.... Nah!


This Mauve kit is really nice.  The True Details cockpit is sweet in it, I can tell.



Edited by KUROK

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The first order of business is the Curtiss Electric prop.

I am very picky about this.  There are some really good resin replacements that have only recently come out.

However, the old Monogram P-38 had some very pretty and accurate ones.

This is what you are seeing.  I have it coated with Mr. Surfacer.

I plan to mold in in rubber.  Then I can use it on other builds like the really good Airfix P-40B.



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Don Lopez was one of the nicest, kindest, coolest, most sincere people I've ever had the pleasure of knowing.  What you saw was what you got with him.  And I never participate in a total knee replacement surgery that I don't think about Don - he commented to me that he had had his knee "zero-timed" :)


A fitting tribute to a wonderful guy.  He really loved the P-40.




Edited by Jennings Heilig

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Thanks guys.

I have been fiddling around with that propeller blade.

I have a coat of Mr. Surfacer and some coats of Fine Surface Primer.

It looks good but up close I can see scratches.  I've tried polishing cloths but I think I need to wet sand with extreme fine paper.

The good news is I found some Micro Mark casting rubber in my freezer.  It's still good!

So I plan to mold this blade soon and move on to the cockpit.

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Hi All,


Here's some progress as I steal what spare time I can get to work on this.


I have my Curtiss Electric prop ready to mold with rubber for casting.





In this photo, I'm experimenting with interior green.  The top is Testors Acryl Interior Green and other is Humbrol Bronze Green.  I knew I'd like the Humbrol better and this just seals the deal on that:




In this photo I'm ready to pour in the rubber.  I hope to get away with a one part mold due to the slender nature of the prop blade:





Near disaster!  The ten year old mold rubber I have kept in the freezer was acting fine when I thawed it a few weeks back.  Not is started to kick right when I needed a slow, bubble popping pour.  At this point the rubber is full of bubbles and is not settling.






So I managed to get the original out.  I did try a cast or two in it but the baby powder (talc) I put in has settled at the tip.  The good news is that there are not any bubbles around the blade.  The bad news is the item is so thin it is not hardening very fast.  I may have to put the mold into hot water and try that next...



Edited by KUROK

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Production of mini Curtiss Electric blades is going well.

My one part mold is tricky.  I use a thin piece of wire to "plunge" out bubbles before the resin kicks.

I have to be careful as if I plunge too aggressively, I can create more bubbles.

So far it's about a 50% rejection rate.

I have enough for this project as of now.  The resin is soft due to a very thin part.

However it is stiff enough after about a week or two.



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Slow progress folks but that's okay.  Having fun.


I got about five good resin cast prop blades before I broke one off in the mold.  This was due to a large bubble weakening the blade.


I took the best three and have primed them with Krylon Matte Aluminum:


Edited by KUROK

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Just a little update.  More pics coming soon.

Tough to get time at the bench!

I have mounted the spinner on a brass rod like I do often.  The holes were filed to make room for my new cast blades.

Here it is just before a coat of Tamiya fine surface primer white.  Good thing as Lope's Hope had a white spinner!




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I'd like to share with you a new tool I have from CB Model Products.

At first I thought a wheel sanding tool was frivolous but have you ever been frustrated trying to sand a flat spot just right?


The tool can handle angled wheel situations like a Bf-109 or Spitfire.




Rubber O-rings are provided if you wheel has protrusions and my True Details wheels did.   You attach them with white glue.




In short order, you get perfectly prepared resin or styrene wheels.




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