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Another Hasegawa T bolt Bubbletop, my first LSP. November 12, 2022, It is DONE at last!!!!!!!!


Citadelgrad

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CG- 

The brake lines in your last picture appear to be standard -4 sized lines and fittings, which the b-nuts on the lines themselves would be 9/16” diameter, and the elbow would be 1/2” or 7/16” depending on the vendor. Those are still in use today. 
HTH 

 

THOR    :ph34r:

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Some info on P-47 brake lines:

 

Here's a pic from the erection and maintenance catalogue:

 

fnJFZadh.jpg

 

Here is the engineering drawing defining the various lines, hoses, and clamps on the LG strut:

 

hIgrboOh.jpg

 

 

 

The fixed line between the hoses is 5/16 inch OD, as defined by its own drawing.  I could not find the true callout of the hose OD, but on this drawing it scales to exactly twice the fixed tube OD which would make it 5/8 inch.  Note the drawing asks for wrapped tape around the hose.  Here is a close-up, if you want to get real fancy!

 

pvqgCsBh.jpg

 

You see four clamps that attach the brake line to the strut.  The lower one 93L39104 will be unseen.  Next clamp up is 89L39106 (the one you ask about), followed by 89L39105, and finally 89L39130.  Drawings of each follow.

 

93L39104:

 

8JytUsFh.jpg

 

89L39106 (the one you ask about):

 

g70IbdFh.jpg

 

Note there are two versions of this clamp, one with a thumb screw.  The two versions are interchangeable; either one could have been used.

 

89L39105:

 

MZMvmnCh.jpg

 

Again, two versions of this clamp.

 

And 89L39130:

 

oCgXUych.jpg

 

This clamp has a spring attached to it which would be all but impossible to model at 1/32.  It's up near the top of the strut where it is not easily seen though....  

 

The clamp in question has an elbow fitting (part number 3115-1ET-5D) that I cannot find dimensions for, but the drawing can be scaled to get an approximation (use available dimensions shown for other features):

 

  RjEocRKh.jpg

 

Obviously this is a micro-modelling effort - my estimate has that elbow at .75 inch tall or .023 inch at 1/32 scale!!  Have fun.  This may be information overload, but please do not hesitate to ask if you need more info.

 

 

 

 

Edited by JayW
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wow, Jay, i a, speechless at the level of knowledge and detail you share.  That photo of the valve with the hand on the wrench reminds me, i missed a nasty mold line on the top of one oleo...
 

One step forward, two back. I got the wheels and tires shot, but for some reason, the primer i used didnt bite very well, and the black was just wiping off.  Add to that that i screwed up the alclad on one of the molded in hubs, and it was necessary to strip the tires and start over.

 

you can see here the undercoat showing through

 

6O93WH.jpg

 

A test in which i rubbed the sidewall with my thumb pretty much acted like 80 grit sandpaper.  I really like the color but need the paint to stick, so i called a do over. 
 

In case anyone is wondering, MR.  Color self leveling thinner makes short work of alclad, and it will blast the tamiya acrylic paint, too, but in doing so, it gets quite sticky. No damage to the resin, but i really had to wipe to get the fingerprints off. 
 

then i used a nylon brush and some warm water and dish soap to scrub off 99.91% of the paint. 
 

i decided to really let the primer and coats set up this time. I got excited and rushed the initial steps last time.  Tonight i hit the wheels and tires with some Tamiya extra fine grey rattlecan primer, two light coats five minutes apart, and left the garage.  I will shoot some tire color tomorrow, then, weds, i will shoot the rims. 
 

LexRD5.jpg

 

i have a new plan for the rims, too.  The raised brake vents on this wheel mean that my plastic circle stencil is too thick to get good coverage.  I poked around and found a circle compass cutter, any size hole from 1cm to 6 inches or so.  I will use this to make a mask for the rubber part out of low tack tape and shoot the rims that way. 
g89TgM.jpg

i initially tried it on my self healing mat, and the hardest part is getting the size exactly correct. After that its just spin and lift. I will try the next set on a ceramic tile i use to mix figure paint on.  The blade was digging in to the soft mat and it made it harder to cut, and the chesp blades probably dont need that extra work. 
 

i will post my results with this deal as i experiment. 

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I have the same circle cutter and it works well, once you get used to it. It is most successful if you hold as centered as possible and spin it like a top, but very lightly, using not much more pressure than the weight of the tool, itself. It may take multiple passes on some masking material, but it cuts much cleaner this way, in my experience.

 

Keep up the good work!

:thumbsup:

John

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I took another stab at the resin tires and wheels, and, frankly, i am not thrilled with the paint job. I initially tried to use a plastic stencil, but it was too thick because of the raised detail.  I then tried the circle cutter, and it worked much better, but still not as crisp as i would like. I went back with a brush and some silver, and it looms better than it did, but not great. This seems lime a pretty basic issue.  Does anyone have any tips they can share for a crisp line demarcating wheel from tire?  I know, this is the back side and will largely be covered by the lower gear doors, but i would like to do better.  I am absolutely ready to strip these and try again, but i think its the method i am using that is lacking. 
 

only one, discouraging photo

7VehFx.jpg

if this were a jeep, well first of all, i built a jeep and the stencil worked perfectly, and then i weathered it, which might hide this paintwork, but i never weather to hide stuff. 
 

any ideas?  
 

Bill

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  • Citadelgrad changed the title to Another Hasegawa Bubbletop, my first LSP, April 1, and the second painting of the resin wheels is MEH!

They look alright to me Bill,...I think you may be trying to get them too perfect with the mask, after masking wheels I paint, I just about always have to go back in with a brush and touch up.

 

Just my thoughts,

Jeff.

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On 4/1/2021 at 11:38 PM, JT68 said:

They look alright to me Bill,...I think you may be trying to get them too perfect with the mask, after masking wheels I paint, I just about always have to go back in with a brush and touch up.

 

Just my thoughts,

Jeff.

 

On 4/4/2021 at 5:49 AM, ChuckD said:

I think they look fine.  A little weathering and they'll be perfect.  

 

The pursuit of perfection is the enemy of happiness.  :)

Thanks, Jeff and Chuck.  I was just expecting the crisp demarcation, and will work on how to do this, but will weather these and see how it looks.

 

Speaking of landing gear, I got my little package from Hiroboy.com, which is a model car website.  I was kind of blind ordering, looking mostly for parts I can use on the brake lines of this and other upcoming planes, so I did order a variety. I figured that if the parts, which are labeled as suitable for larger scale cars, were too big, I can just use them on engines.

 

Here's what I got.  

 

First up is a resin 90 degree .8 mm hose joints, HD03-0237, that I thought would be perfect for the hard line to rubber line joint at the oleo scissors,

 

Uc9Kex.jpg

Tough to judge it here on my office desk, but I think these are around the right size, that's a large paper clip for scale

XAX4qI.jpg

 

I will put a landing gear leg next to one this evening if I get the chance.  I think these might work.

 

Next up, These hose fittings, "Top studio 1.1 mm Hex Fitting, Tapered"

 

BsCzu3.jpg

Tough to show the detail and give any size perspective, so I took another one with that paper clip opened to show the diameter.  They look like they would do well as the terminus of the rubber lower hose to 90 degree elbow at the oleo, but I need to see them on teh legs to make sure. 

E0M9TS.jpg

 

I think these will work nicely at the transitions.

 

Next we have "Non plated hose joint set", this is an assortment of shapes and sizes of straight and angled connectors, including Ts

 

wLFz5V.jpg

Here's a shot showing the assortment

pm9GnX.jpg

 

Lastly, I got some electrical connectors, sort of greeblies for adding detail, but with no specific use planned

 

ZwJERk.jpgBvXyrH.jpg

 

 

I had sort of forgotten that I was waiting for these, now I can select which parts look the part and confirm that they are the correct size for what I want, but I am pretty excited. 

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  • Citadelgrad changed the title to Another Hasegawa Bubbletop, my first LSP, April 8, package of plumbing parts has arrived.

Ok, as promised, I was able to get some photos with the connectors next to my landing gear.  
 

take a look at this photo, originally posted by JayW,  a close up of the area.  I am comparing the relative size of that C shaped tow bracket, the adult hand on the wrench, and the elbow in question:

6yegvk.jpg

 

and here is my landing gear, showing that same C tow bracket, and the elbow i am thinking about using.  
 

dT3jSI.jpg

lADssr.jpg

i think this is going to work.  Check my mark one eyeball math, but the ratio looks very similar.  

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More small progress.  I had hoped to use aluminum tape for ducting for the clamps on the gear legs holding the brake lines, and while looking unsuccessfully for some liquid chrome pens, i thought i would try to use it for the oleos themselves.  
 

First version was too large, second too small, Goldilocks theme tonight, and just when i got it perfect, i realized i had put the seam on the wrong side, so i had to carefully unstick them and cut new ones.  I think these look passable. Tomorrow, hopefully, some brake lines and some washes.

 

photos:

4j34bz.jpg

 

EYZbzm.jpg

u8eD8t.jpg

 

the tape works well.  Issues to watch for, wrinkles.  Use a new blade, and a straight edge, obviously.  Its pretty easy and cheap, so i discarded a bunch of attempts. I think this version will do. 

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  • Citadelgrad changed the title to Another Hasegawa Bubbletop, my first LSP, April 9, aluminum duct tape for oleos?
  • 1 month later...

I have been thinking about the next step a lot.  This causes a pause in my building.  The dzus fasteners around the cowl area are going to be obliterated when i address the main fuselage seam.  
 

to address this, i have a jeweling tool and will select an appropriate sized tip and see what i can do. 
 

I also just bought but dont yet have in my hands a Silhouette Portrait cutter.  That probably wont come into play on this build unless i mess up my masks, but my next several builds will be Luftwaffe birds, so i am hoping to learn the system so i can ditch traditional decals as much as possible.  
 

in preparation for joining the fuselage i have glued up the cockpit tub, its a big step for me because i did so many new to me things on it, i hate to reduce it to what you can see through the tiny fuselage opening.  Oh, well.  Progress.

 

i did snap a few shots in my garage workshop under build lighting conditions, just to document this step.  Its not really much different than my last update, but i hope to close it up this weekend.  
 

some shots. 
First, that amazing Yahu panel, i think i will use these when i can. 

H3o6iC.jpg
 

T4NeuK.jpg

 

NZNXYA.jpg

 

sorry about the photo quality, the lighting at the bench is great for work, but imparts an unpleasant tone in photos.  
 

i will photograph in better lighting now that i know how bad this looks. 

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  • Citadelgrad changed the title to Another Hasegawa T bolt Bubbletop, my first LSP, May 15, last tweak before closing up fuselage!

Fuselage was closed up this weekend.  I got a very good join, but there are always a few areas.

 

I have found that it's very hard to photograph the seams up close, so here are two shots, top and bottom, after two rounds of fill, sand, prime.  I am really getting use out of the micromesh pads, I have a range from 1500 to 12000, and it really works to get the scratches out.

 

One more close look tonight, then probably a final prime, and I am "ready" to rescribe the lost lines.  So far the vast majority are just straight connected lines that cross the join, but on the underside there is an arrowhead shaped deal at the center under the wing root area.

 

Photos:

 

c8RV6p.jpg

 

l1jsle.jpg

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  • Citadelgrad changed the title to Another Hasegawa T bolt Bubbletop, my first LSP, May 19, fuselage closed, let the sanding dust FLY!!!

Good work on the seams Bill!  Now comes the fun part... scribing!  Take your time with that curved line on the belly.  It helps to use some sort of guide/template but maybe tough to find a metal or raised plastic one with the same curvature.  Flexible white Tamiya Tape might be useful here...

 

31kVMLSQ4FL._AC_.jpg

 

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