Hubert Boillot Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 If the plastic LG fails, then the SAC one will fail as well ... only 10 times faster Hubert Tony T and Jack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregair Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 If the plastic LG fails, then the SAC one will fail as well ... only 10 times faster Hubert Oh dear! Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 The kit main u/c strut is one-piece and quite flexy, which doesn't bode well, a possible solution is to use a base and pin the wheels to it, or pray for a G-Factor replacement... Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Indeed SACs stuff is utterly worthless. The SAC junk literally bends way easier than most of the OOB plastic its meant to replace. The only difference being, the OOB plastic tends to have at least some memory, but the SAC stuff made with what seems as soft as solder, has none. As Andy notes, we will likely need a G-Factor (or other similar) hardened brass replacement to do the job. Tony T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony T Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Have the Roden L-19 to do as a French warbird and wanting something a little tougher than the kit legs. Avoided the Kittyhawk Bronco for want of stronger undercart but am keeping an open mind about the Roden pushmepullyou. The glazing looks to be potentially complex. (I'd prefer big clear parts that need masking and painting rather than inserts without any flange or lip.) Tony Out2gtcha and rafju 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 (I'd prefer big clear parts that need masking and painting rather than inserts without any flange or lip.) Yeah, thats kind of a biggie. I think that providing all clear parts that would need to be masked, makes for way cleaner seams IMHO. And way less work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 I have the O-1 kit, and have seen Eric's build, and the bird doesn't seem too heavy to me, so I'm wondering if he is having any problems with his? Eric reinforced the landing gear on his Birddog with metal wire, though I can't remember what type. Kev Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Eric reinforced the landing gear on his Birddog with metal wire, though I can't remember what type. Kev Looking at the build guide he used brass tube for the tail wheel, and a mix of brass rod and mini drill bits for the MLG: "I devised a plan with a small window of opportunity to be able to insert a brass rod through each leg, but with an even smaller margin for error. I thought of how both of my own legs had been fixed a couple of decades ago when I was in my teens and went for the same method. A collection of brass rod, drill bits and a pin vice." "I started each hole with a small pilot hole, going in as far as I could. These drill bits are not flexible and it was important that each hole started out straight." "Using the longer, flexible bits, I continued the hole along the length of each leg, using the white discolouration of the plastic to determine its progress. I then cut a small channel at the end of each hole. The brass pin was then passed through each leg before being bent into each channel." LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Thanks, Brian. After spending so long putting the book together, you'd think I'd remember the details! Kev Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Looks like a very similar if not exact same plan may be applied to the O-2 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 "I felt that the tail wheel assembly was going to be a major weak spot in the kit. The leaf spring is very thin and will break very easily. Using a very thin bit I drilled a hole right through the length of the plastic part." "And inserted brass tubing through it. I have much more confidence in moving the model around now." Tony T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony T Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 That "how to" book sounds like a plan Tony Out2gtcha and LSP_Kevin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 That "how to" book sounds like a plan Tony Building Mac's Birddog in 1/32 Scale Kev Out2gtcha and Kagemusha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 That "how to" book sounds like a plan Tony If you want to build the O-1, ibthink it will be invaluable. There some seriously nice walkaround pics in it too LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr b Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Would the metal undercarriage from Scale Aircraft Conversions resolve that worry for the bird dog undercarriage? Im sure that they will do the same soon for the O-2 Would not know for sure ............but the problem is to take out the old gear....I was told about the pin thingy on the wheels ....mighty be the best option for now.......... rgds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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