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Revell Hawker Hunter - Swiss J-4013


amurray

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The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men,

Gang aft agley,

An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,

For promis'd joy!

- Robert Burns

 

I mentioned earlier that the interior intake pieces had to go on the inside of the locating tabs. Well, that holds true ONLY IF one doesn't open up the boundary layer duct ports, top and bottom.

 

33223483911_97d1b73f1c_z.jpg

 

 

BUT if one does open them up (as I have) then the ducts don't line up correctly with the vertical intake pieces. Above I have used a drafting pencil to outline the ducts on the intake pieces underneath the wing surfaces, top and bottom. As (bad) luck would have it, the ducts drawn onto the intake pieces line up directly on top of the vertical intake pieces. When I cut open the ducts on the intake pieces they will be on top of the vertical intake pieces. Not good!

 

33413365711_dbd54cb88e_z.jpg

 

So, I have to remove the vertical pieces that I have already glued, remove the tabs and then revise the existing vertical pieces or fabricate new ones. That is what I'm working on now.

 

I was skeptical of the intake/wing/fuselage design but this trial exercise so far leads me to believe this is a brilliant design on Revell's part. I highly recommend that one use tape to do a trial run as I have. Resist the urge to glue the intake pieces until you've got the hang of this construction.

 

And you can't see it in the bottom photo but there are more measles (filled sink marks) inside the intakes. They are visible so be sure to fill them.

 

And BTW the little splitter pieces that I glued onto the inside of the intakes before all this began got trashed. I'll have to fabricate new ones out of plastic card. Unless you're building OOB don't glue them into the intakes until you are finished installing the intakes in the wing.

 

32537647633_cacd8ffc83_z.jpg

 

 

Edited by amurray
Altogether: P-H-O-T-O-B-U-C-K-E-T!!!
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  • 2 weeks later...

I first removed the locating tabs with a mini-chisel. Then I overlaid the wings over the intakes and marked the location for the ports. I then use a small drill to cut out holes and then cut out the ports. A small diamond file did the rest. I then taped up the parts for a trial fit and the new intake ports matched up well with the wing ports.

 

32698389274_39e86f2fb9_z.jpg

 

33413367811_e6849328be_z.jpg

 

32698391824_69779104a3_z.jpg33413369041_f87fdaa927_z.jpg

 

A lot of effort.  But every photo of the topside of a Hunter in flight shows these vents conspicuously open.

 

 

Edited by amurray
Photobucket! Photobucket!! Photobucket!!!
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Interresting approach but I'm curious as to wether You're not "stumbling" from one problem into the other... If I understand correctly, You are going to move the "intake splitter-plates", in order to make room for the bundary layer duct ports of the intake-interior. Will that not effect the "off-set" between the splitter-plate and the curvature of the fuselage nose-section...? Looking forward to learn how You are going to solve that "problem".

 

Regards Rudy.

 

P.S.:

If interrested, here's my "take" on the Revell Hunter. The site is in Dutch but the pic's should be "self-explanatory". Small "sit-rep";

1) Build OOB as a birthday present for my brother.

2) Had a paint-issue, resulting in stripping the entire bird, re-engraving the panel-lines and drilling out the rivets with a 0.3mm drill by hand. ALL OF THEM !

3) Ran into dead-line, as result of "2)", forcing me into somewhat rushing towards the finishing-date...

4) Not the best result, but still she turned out "acceptable".

 

Hope You'll enjoy...

 

https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=43929

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Rudy,

 

My test fits show this shouldn't be much of a problem. I'm only moving the splitter about 1/32 of an inch. I appreciate your bringing this to my attention. I'll certainly keep it in mind as I permanently afix the parts.

 

Nice job on your Hunter!

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I see. I didn't have a clue as to how much the splitter-plate needed to be moved but with 1/32 of an inch, I guess it should be do-able. Still, these kind of little modifications sound good and pretty straight forward on paper but to incorporate them "in real life" is, of course, a different story. Seeing Your modelling-skill's, I'm sure that You'll be able to pull it off and I will be following with great interrest ! Sweet to see such a nice model get some special attention.  :popcorn:

 

Regards Rudy.

 

P.S.:

Thanx for Your compliment on my Hunter.  :bow:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've started gluing pieces together and right off learned a lesson the hard way. Do not glue the the locator tabs on the ends of the wings as the instructions would have one do. I glued them and then parts 37, 38 and 40 (for the Left Wing; 44, 45, 47 for the Right Wing) didn't fit so great. The problem is that gluing the locator tabs causes the wingtip to be too narrow, too compressed. Leave the tips unglued, let the tips "float", and one can then just let parts 37, 38 and 40 set the proper spacing when they are glued to the wing. I will remember this when I build this kit again in the future as I wish to do.

33781119975_c40130669e_z.jpg

Edited by amurray
Did you guess "Photobucket?"
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As I mentioned earlier Revell did a great job of molding the exhaust ports in the open position. Well, such fine work goes unnoticed or looks out of place if one does not open up all the vent grills and replace them with vanes made of plastic or PE brass scraps.

 

33394910400_995cacf399_z.jpg

 

33394910730_40faface57_z.jpg

 

 

 

First step: Drill holes in the molded vents.

 

33394908360_01226ec7fa_z.jpg

 

Second step: Thin the plastic behind the vents so as to make it easier to open them up. I used my Dremel Miti-Mite and a round diamond-tipped burr.

 

33394900960_97d8bee2f9_z.jpg

 

Third step: Open up the vents with a #11 Xacto blade. Don't worry if you make an opening too large. You can always go back and put in plastic strip to recover the proper shape or dimension.

 

Fourth step: Use an assortment of files to even out and smooth the edges.

 

33623134502_9a40ddb1ae_z.jpg

 

I now have to experiment a little with brass and plastic to see which material I'll use for the vanes.  :hmmm:

Edited by amurray
Can you say, "Photobucket?"
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I'm keen on this build, but I want to do a Hunter in the contemporary FR variant. A co-worker's dad flew one in Aden and he has lots of pictures of that bird. Any idea how hard it would be to modify the Hunter nose to FR standard?

 

Thanks for your detailed build log!

Edited by cdnguy68
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I'm keen on this build, but I want to do a Hunter in the contemporary FR variant. A co-worker's dad flew one in Aden and he has lots of pictures of that bird. Any idea how hard it would be to modify the Hunter nose to FR standard?

Thanks for your detailed build log!

In looking at photos of the nose of the FR.10 it shouldn't be to too hard to modify the kit nose. Another option is to take a piece of bass wood, carve it and shape it to make a mold to "smash form" a new nose. Then just cut out a place for the side mount camera covering and replace with a scratchbuilt part. The forward camera covering would then only require some scribing to replicate.

 

Sounds like a cool project!

Edited by amurray
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  • 9 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Kevin,

 

Sorry to be so late responding to you.  You are correct that I was a victim of Photobucket.  It upset me so badly that I dropped a number of modeling projects.  I got on to other projects but will return to this project.  I will re-enter the "Photobucketed" photos using a different hosting site.

 

One other thing happened at the same time Photobucket decided to screw all their loyal customers:  Rudy's tactful warning to me (see above) that I discarded in an off-handed manner became all too apparent.  I was in the process of recognizing the wisdom of Rudy's observation and thereby re-building the interior shape of the ducts when Phtobucket struck.  The two disappointments one on top of the other caused me to set this project aside.  As soon as I finish an F-94C for a friend's father I will return to finish this project complete with restored photos.

 

Thanks,

 

Art

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I'm keen on this build, but I want to do a Hunter in the contemporary FR variant. A co-worker's dad flew one in Aden and he has lots of pictures of that bird. Any idea how hard it would be to modify the Hunter nose to FR standard?

 

Thanks for your detailed build log!

Hopefully dead easy with this: http://www.alleycatmodels.co.uk/hunter-fr10-nose-6611-p.asp

 

Don't forget the cockpit mods though.

Edited by MikeC
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After ONLY a 6 year hiatus, I am back with this project.  Photobucket in 2017 screwed me, you and all other modelers using their service.  But it wasn't just this Hunter project they destroyed but my pride and joy LSP Twin-Tail T-33 and MiG-21F projects.  I spent countless hours (as did many of you) retrieving photos from Photobucket, downloading them to a new service, Flickr, and then re-building my articles on LSP with Kevin's help.  Over several months I rebuilt the T-33 and MiG-21 build projects.  Thoroughly frustrated, I moved on to other projects, abandoning my Hunter.  But I promised Kevin, "I shall return!"

 

I've spent the last few weeks replacing the photos above and re-familiarizing myself with the kit.  I also did a lot of additional Hunter research.  As a result, I will not do the J-4013 photo-recon bird but another version of J-4013 (the Swiss Air Force Hunter test bed aircraft) that does not include the chrysanthemum underside (I'm no artist) but will incorporate the faded Day-Glo paint job that attracted me to this bird to begin with. 

 

I apologize for the delay and hope you will follow my resurrected Hunter!  I solicit your comments and your help.  :hi:

 

[BTW did I mention that it was Photobucket that screwed us?]

[BTW did I mention that it was Photobucket that screwed us?]

[BTW did I mention that it was Photobucket that screwed us?]

[Ad Infinitum]

 

"Don't get mad, get even!"    :fight:

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