Shaka HI Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Fantastic Joel! I've followed your builds on ARC, but I must say, this has to be your best so far and I can't believe it'd get any better than this! Joel_W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 I havent visited this thread for a while. Your skill levels are mind boggling Joel. I will have to resort to PE to fix some of the errors in the kit. Joel_W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 One thing is that the gear doors are one piece, so the black and gray portion should meet. Great work on everything else Matt Matt, Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if they had to be flush to the gear or not. I'll try to remove them and re-glue into the proper position. Usually, gears doors fall off my models if I just look at them to long. Of course these will most likely be on forever since I want to reposition them. Joel scvrobeson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Great progress Joel. It's great learning about the myriad of small details like the prop colours that I didn't know before so thanks for the history lesson too. For the oleos, maybe you can try Hasegawa's chrome film. I think it may be mylar based as it has a bit of stretch to it and can be sliced into really thin strips. I've been using it instead of trying to paint bits like that. Carl Carl, Thanks for stopping by and having a look. It's much appreciated. I'll have to see if Sprue Brothers carries the film or I could have bought Bare Metal Foil, as they seem very similar. Either would have done an excellent job. I'm going to try it out for areas where air brushing just doesn't make sense. Every model over the last few years for me has been a history lesson, as I've been spending more and more time researching the build. Originally my focus was as a plastic modeler, not a historian. But that has slowly changed, and now I spend more time learning about the subject of the build then I ever would have previously thought I needed to do. That's one of the reasons why my focus is from late pre-war through Vietnam. I would never have guessed that the gray cowl ring was from a tarp covering the props, or that they didn't repaint the bottom of the aircraft. How quickly we forget that back then time was of the essence, man power was at a premium, and the focus was on winning the war on two fronts. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) Fantastic Joel! I've followed your builds on ARC, but I must say, this has to be your best so far and I can't believe it'd get any better than this! Shaka Hi, It's always a special treat for me when I reunite with some of the "old gang" from either ARC or Aeroscale that has also made the move to LSP. I remember following your builds back then. I'm really glad that you made the move to 1/32 scale & LSP too. I still keep in touch with Janne (Aigore) and follow his builds. Sure wish he'd up scale and join us here. Pete (my brother) has for years nagged me to up scales as it's the best bang for the buck when you divide the cost by days of a build. And he never missed a chance to push me to switch to LSP as soon as I made the scale switch. By far the best overall group of modelers I've ever seen on one site in any scale. As for this being my best so far, I'm truly humbled and flattered as it's coming from a modeler with a lot more skills then I have. To be truthful about it, my decaling isn't up to par as what I could get away with in 1/48th scale, you can't in 1/32 scale. I do see some silvering so I really need to concentrate on cutting out every letter, and removing as much clear film as possible. I'm even thinking of going with masks slowly but surely for Insignias, letters, and numbers whenever possible. Of course cost will have a lot to do with it once I retire, and my modeling fund takes a big hit. Joel Edited March 11, 2017 by Joel_W Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 I havent visited this thread for a while. Your skill levels are mind boggling Joel. I will have to resort to PE to fix some of the errors in the kit. Gerhard, Thanks for stopping by and checking out my progress to date. It's been a very interesting journey for sure. As for my skill levels being mind boggling, I'm truly humbled, but believe me, they're not anything special. You guys only get to see the end results, not the failures, wrong turns, & screw ups. Everything I've done to the F4F, I'm positive you can do to. Nothing wrong with using PE if you prefer that way. It's the end results that count. Joel Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Wonderful progress Joel, Your engine looks so good and the whole build is coming together really nicely. Regards. Andy Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) Wonderful progress Joel, Your engine looks so good and the whole build is coming together really nicely. Regards. Andy Andy, Thanks so much for stopping by. I'm really glad that you like the way that the engine turned out. For a while when I struggled with the ignition manifold and the wiring, I wasn't just so sure. Joel Edited March 11, 2017 by Joel_W Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 One thing is that the gear doors are one piece, so the black and gray portion should meet. Great work on everything else Matt Matt, By the luck of the Irish, the gears doors popped right off. I had to shave down the center guide on both inner doors so that they would fit flush to those brackets on the gear strut assembly. Again, thanks for the info, it's greatly appreciated. Joel Shaka HI, scvrobeson, Shawn M and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 JA Nice fix and still no P&W emblem in sight Bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 JA Nice fix and still no P&W emblem in sight Bro Bro, It's on my to do list. I managed to loose the lens for the taxi light on the bottom of the wing, so a 2 min job has turned into a few hours with Krystal Kleer. Can't turn over the F4F till it dry. Joel Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 JA The clock is ticking Bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Your build is looking beautiful Joel. I really like the way you painted the propeller. It's little things like that that add up to a real winning build. Keep inspiring us regular plastic manglers! Tony, Thanks for stopping by as I know just how busy you've been with the new house and the new job. The prop wasn't hard to do, just took a lot longer then I'm use to. Glad that you appreciated the effort. Joel Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Ah, looks much better now Joel. Glad that the fix was easy to do Matt Joel_W and Shaka HI 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Fantastic progress and great finish (although Ipersonally prefer yellow wings ). Glad you could sort the LG doors fitting. They look so much better now. Hubert Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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