Decals

[AngoMango]

More tips needed please fellas!

 

I'm trying to make the USAF wing insignia decals on my Trumpeter P-51 conform to the aileron actuating detail.

 

The actuating mechanism is so raised of the wing surface, that it is a nightmare getting the decal to bed down nicely. I've used microsol to try and soften the decal, which it does, but not enough.

 

Any suggestions (other than painting the insignia) would be greatly appreciated

 

Cheers,

Ango.

[Koala]

G'day Ango. Is this the sort of thing you are talking about (piccy attached)?

 

The big (AFAIK) good quality hino decals provided with my re-popped Hase Ki43 had the same challenge of forming decal over aileron actuators.

 

The way I tackled it (in my ignorance of any more advance modelling techniques) was to place decal, then apply, re-apply and then re-apply again etc. a decal solvent/setting solution - in this case Mr MarkSoftener. (I've now obtained some Microsolve and Microset which I hope will be easier.)

 

Anyway, I worried the hell out of/worked the offending area with my softest small brush throughout the process. Gradually (very slowly) the little bugger softened (almost melted) and I was able to form it up over the actuator and tuck it into the recesses with the brush.

 

On one side it did tear, but against a base NMF this is passed off as "scratching on raised paintwork" and looks acceptable as such. IIRC I may have even added a touch of red paint to "correct" my hamfistedness.

 

Decalling kills me. When one has got so far and put in so much effort, after many hours input, it is still touch and go whether the pooch gets screwed at this late stage. Shaky hands and sweaty brow time

 

Good luck mate!

[LSP_Ray]

What I have done before when Microsol has gone as far as it can, is to run an Xacto knife around the detail, apply more solution, and when all is snug touch up with paint.

[AngoMango]

Thanks Koala and Ray, all comments are greatly appreciated!

 

Koala, I know exactly what you go thru mate...I've already screwed the pooch, so to speak, on my first attempt, but fortunately I have a spare insignia for the upper wing (precisely the location illustrated in your pic) so still have 1 chance to get it right. As you say, sweating bullets.

 

I was thinking of precisely cutting out the shape of the actuator prior to removing the decal from the backing paper, but I think if I did that, I'm bound to get the location a little bit wrong. Also, the integrity of the decal would be compromised and would tear very easily while positioning was underway.

 

Might just work, work, and work again on the offending area with soft brush and decal softening solution. If the decal does tear, I can touch up with the closest colour paint, as both of you fellas suggest.

 

Thanks again!

Ango.

[LSP_Matt]

Koala...nice job on your jap decal

 

I just purchased some Mr Softener myself today as I am going to have a dip at using the decals for my 1/32 FW190D9.instrument panel

 

The guy at the shop kindly offerred some instructions on use. As follows: Small drop of Mr softener on the area where the decal will go. slide decal, position and blot dry as per usual. Apply another drop of Mr softener and gently brush this over the entire decal....and then leave alone 24hrs. He said it will shrivel quite a bit and then kind of 'selflevel' back smooth.

 

I guess the bit that differs is the manipulation of the decal with softener in situ whilst it is setting.

 

Anyone else have any perspectives on the validity of this technique?

[Koala]

Yeah - I forgot to say that when all else fails I also put the decal to the knife. But what I do is to split it high on the concave shapes, let it settle in into and around the shape and then patch the hole with paint and metal "scratching". This approach pre-empts and controls the inevitable split.

 

I also don't hesitate to go back and cut a decal after intial application and softening, where it sits over, say, an aileron joint. I then re-saturate it with softener and let it bed back down. I've heard that some of the other decal solutions can kill a decal if too much is applied, but aside from a tiny amount of bubbling, I've never done this (yet). I'll also use a soft point to work decals into panel lines and other depressions. Yep - I worry the hell out of them!

 

CQBDent - beware the MrMarkSoftener! I have had very different results with different decals. I completely killed a very small kit decal on my Hase 190 by placing it onto a drop of MarkSoftener and then trying to locate it. Had to buy a whole new decal set just for one "insert crank here" stencil!

 

The Hase decals are very thin and they can (and did in this case) just shrivel up to an unrecoverable tiny little ball of nothing if placed onto MarkSoftener - especially if they fold back on themselves.

 

Its worth mentioning that I've saved my bacon before with tangled, partially disolved, decals by carefully lifting them off the kit and floating them in a basin of water, and then gradually and carefully unfolding it with a soft brush and kind words of encouragement.

 

I only use the Marksoftener under the decal now on larger more sturdy ones. I'd rather just take the time to work it into the top with the smaller ones - reapplying many times if necessary.

[LSP_Matt]

Yeah thanks for the good oil Koala. I'm thinking I might be inclined to try on a kit that I'm not too fussed about or one that I have spare decals for.

 

Actually, the guy at the shop did mention that one of the reasons why he recommended not to touch it for 24hrs is the Mr softener can cause the dyes on the decals to run.

 

Not that I'm doing much at the moment except trying to remove this really F%**&^g annoying "Trek Blue Error Nuker" spyware from my PC. All of my spybot and Nortons nails it but its regenerating....Arrrgggg :angry:

 

Cheers Matt

[jbrundt]

Try Solvaset. That's the strongest decal solvent out there. it may take several applications and some work with a brush but eventually they will conform.

 

Solvaset is sold by Walthers (the train guys).

 

hth

 

Jeff

[smithery]

For raised details (and especially instrument panels CQBDent), I brush a liberal coat of Future on the area just before I place the decal. As the Future dries, it's self-levelling properties suck the decal down, perfectly conforming to the details. While wet, it also allows me some wiggle room to place the decal properly.

 

And there's little or no risk of the decal tearing. And no harsh chemicals.

 

Food for thought.

 

Since trying this technique, I have not used my decal softening agents once.

[ChrisS]

For raised details (and especially instrument panels CQBDent), I brush a liberal coat of Future on the area just before I place the decal. As the Future dries, it's self-levelling properties suck the decal down, perfectly conforming to the details. While wet, it also allows me some wiggle room to place the decal properly.

 

And there's little or no risk of the decal tearing. And no harsh chemicals.

 

Food for thought.

 

Since trying this technique, I have not used my decal softening agents once.

 

Really?

 

Now this I might have to try! So you use water to get them off the sheet, then sit them into some future brushed on the target area? Man that does sound like if it works it probably works well.

 

[LSP_Matt]

that sounds like a great idea Smithery. In Aus I've only been able to get my hands on Pledge ( Johnson and Johnson) which is the alternative recommended by Swanny ( I belive the "future guru" ).

 

Any experience with this product any LSPers from Aus?...it'd be nice just to get future though because it sounds magically good..

[smithery]

Really?

 

Now this I might have to try! So you use water to get them off the sheet, then sit them into some future brushed on the target area? Man that does sound like if it works it probably works well.

 

That's exactly it Chris. It's almost too easy. It's especially good for IP decals.

 

I'm rather lazy, and choose not to rescribe anything, so I use this method on the older raised panel-line Hasegawa kits. It works equally well on engraved panel line kits.

 

Since adopting this method, my bottles of Microset and Microsol just sit there on the shelf collecting dust.

 

Just to give you an idea, here's a pic of a 1:48 (the horror!) P-47 Razorback. Take a look at the insignia. Panel lines are clearly visible through the decal.

 

[smithery]

it'd be nice just to get future though because it sounds magically good..

I think we could arrange something. I'd be happy to ship you a bottle.

[Coolie]

Any experience with this product any LSPers from Aus?...it'd be nice just to get future though because it sounds magically good..

I use Pledge One-Go in the same way that everyone uses future. The only thing I do is dilute it 50% with de-mineralised water to get rid of the really slight tint to it. I get it at the local woolies (Safeway prolly for you)

[LSP_Matt]

Thanks Smithery but I reckon i'll take the plunge and give the pledge a go.

 

Thanks Coolie I'd found it at Safeway ( Mexican for Woolies). I can get demineralised water from work...we have to use it in our autoclaves.

 

Sounds like a great technique though guys and am looking fwd to giving it a go.

 

Cheers Matt