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JayW

Heavy Mod - 1/18 21st Century Toys P-47D Razorback

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I am happy to say the machine gun work is finished, both wings.  The LH wing turned out as good as the RH wing.  That's a relief.  No pics; would be repetitive.  

 

So the goal here of course is to complete whatever is required such that the upper and lower wing halves can be joined.  All the work either creates something that is missing, or modifies something that is inadequate.  For nearly all the wing sub-projects, they can be divided into work done prior to wing half join, and work done post wing half join.  So far, most of the work I have done on the wings is needed prior to wing half join.  Here is a list of sub-projects with status:

 

Done:

 

LG bays LH, RH

Guns & LE penetrations for guns plus inside supports  LH, RH

LE penetration for pitot mast plus inside support LH only

LE penetration for gun camera RH only

LE penetration for air duct RH only

 

Partly done:

 

Flap supports LH, RH

Dzus fasteners gun bay and ammo bay  LH, RH 

 

To do:

 

Finish above partly done items 

Landing light relocation LH only 

Tip lights LH, RH  

ID lights (red, green, amber) RH only 

Aileron supports LH, RH

Bomb pylon internal supports LH, RH (may not need anything here - just holes)

Install landing gear  LH, RH

 

So alot of work left to do prior to buttoning up the wings.  Then, after wing half join, there is more work to do, including paint of course.  I have a plan for all the remaining work, but am worried about two items:  landing light, and tip lights.  I seek guidance from the masters.

 

So on the -30 variant (and on), and I am modelling a -30RE,  the wing landing light (LH side) was moved from behind the landing gear bay to closer to the tip.  No doubt, it was to make room for dive flaps, which were introduced on that variant, and which this model will get later.   Of course, my LH wing has the light in the wrong place for a -30.  Here is a picture of the landing light area vigorusly sanded on to remove the landing light doubler, and the "made in china 21st century toys"  raised lettering:

 

13qzif6l.jpg?1

 

Yup, the lettering is gone.  So now I do not have to see snide comments on it anymore.  :)  I will add a cover for the landing light hole, a bit of putty, sand smooth, and it's gone.  BTW - the light was a good bit too small.

 

So what's my problem with the landing light?  Well, it requires a .50 inch hole drilled in the lower wing skin near the tip:

 

KSX2Jh2l.jpg?1

 

I have drilled a small pilot hole at the location it needs to be (the small black dot - not to be confused with the big screw hole above it, which will be covered up).  That is going to be a big hole.  I'll do it with the end mill but there will be alot of power behind the drill, and I think it puts the wing panel at risk for severe damage if the bit digs in and it gets away from me.  What I need is a clean .50 inch hole.  Any ideas?

 

The tip lights - here is what is provided on the toy:

 

   l0LmUCfl.jpg

 

If one knew nothing about P-47's it might be OK with you.  But I know it's wrong.  The real light is larger (see the pencil lines in the picture), and it is clear plexiglas, not colored.  Here is a shot of Dottie Mae's wing tip:

 

  kYrEns3l.jpg

 

Let's unpack that a bit:  The glass is clear, it's larger than what is on the model presently, and the bulb is colored (not the glass).  The structure inside the plexiglas is painted with ZC primer.  And, the flanges the plexiglas is attached to have neoprene black tape serving as a gasket of sorts.  I can model that convincingly in theory, and to be sure, I could probably delay the work until after the wing halves are joined.  And I might.  But the big challenge is to provide a clear properly shaped part to fit in there.  Wow.

 

Well, I think I can make the glass out of 2-inch diameter clear acrylic (2.5+ inch dia would fit better, but I don't have any, and it would be too big for my lathe).  I would machine a big ring with the right cross section, or close), and then cut the two flats.  After installation, I can file and hone to final shape.  That is a pretty bold plan.  I worry the acrylic is hard enough to resist final filing.  So I read once where a guy used a clear portion of a tooth brush to make a clear part.  Maybe softer plastic....  Any comments on that?  Anyone have better ideas?

 

FYI, the flooring on half my house gets done in the next few days, including the modelling office, which will be a big fat interruption to say the least.  Stick with me; it will be worth it!    

   

Edited by JayW

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i've used clear lexan plastic for large lights before, easy to shape and polish and available in sheets from the hardware store

i've also seen many times the toothbrush trick but have never done it.

In this scale you could probably smash form the covers out of clear sheet for a "true" bulb and cover approach

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I'd use a step drill bit for the landing light; I've used them successfully on styrene sheet without grabbing up to 7/8" diameter, and the holes are clean and circular. 

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Hey Dan!   Step drill.  Heck yes!  Thank you thank you.  Now, cannot wait to show you guys the new landing light!  The tip lights on the other hand.....the material must be at least .3 x .3 inch section.  I have to go find a bigger toothbrush!  Or it end up being a lathe turning.    

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GREAT work so far Jay!  Cant say enough great things about how this is going.....................

 

1 hour ago, JayW said:

 The tip lights on the other hand.....the material must be at least .3 x .3 inch section.  I have to go find a bigger toothbrush!  Or it end up being a lathe turning.    

 

 

I struggled with finding a suitably large clear section for the tip lights on my 32nd F7F. I ended up at Plastuct......................they have a SUPER wide range of clear acrylic rod, and I found that using some of their clear, square acrylic rod was the PERFECT solution for custom scratch built clear wing tip lights:

 

https://plastruct.com/product-category/strip-and-rod/acrylic-rod/page/2/

 

 

The rod is a tad pricey, and you have to buy a certain minimum of the clear rod packages, but I purchased multiple sizes of square clear rod, and it will likely last me the rest of my modeling career for clear lights, so IMHO worth it. 

 

For a project of this size/magnitude, Id say it might be perfect, and at this point you have already gone this far!  The rod to me has been immeasurably handy. 

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Brian - I actually think I got my acrylic round stock from the same outfit

 

Shawn suggested Lexan - maybe a bit softer stuff.  I'll look around at Lowe's, Hobby Lobby, or maybe my local hobby shop.

Edited by JayW

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I bet I searched every drug store, home repair place, super store, dollar general and medical supply store in my town and never did end up finding a single clear toothbrush......or even colored ones that were big enough.

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12 minutes ago, Shawn M said:

I can get clear and colored toothbrushes no problem

 

 

Where were you when I was doing my F7F tip lights!!!     :lol:

 

I looked everywhere in town honestly. I mean everywhere that had any remote possibility of having tooth brushes or the like.  I could get them on line NP, but figured if I was ordering on-line, I might as well get the perfectly square clear rod.

 

Heres looking forward to you working your magic on the tip lights too! 

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54 minutes ago, Shawn M said:

LOL, Brian I offered!

 

 

I remember....................just no need to take up your precious time and effort if I had to have it mailed to my house from the net anyway. Plus I have a TON of extra now for most any project Id need.........................speakin of extra...............

 

You need any, I got plenty?

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If it's not too late for the gear well, on the inboard panel where it is dished out to fit the tire when the gear is up. Might I suggest you laminate some plastic to the outer side and dremel the dished part on the inside similar to what you did for the tail wheel doors. Just a thought!

 

Amazing work by the way! Spent all morning reading from the beginning to date!

Edited by Sgt Shultz II

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"If it's not too late for the gear well, on the inboard panel where it is dished out to fit the tire when the gear is up. Might I suggest you laminate some plastic to the outer side and dremel the dished part on the inside similar to what you did for the tail wheel doors. Just a thought!"

 

Hey thanks for looking in Sgt Shultz.  And thanks for the suggestion.  Well yeah it's too late.  The inboard canted ribs are solidly attached and to get them out of there would risk damage.  Your idea is probably beyond my skills, and I thought of it too, actually.  The laminating would be easy enough, and there is room to do so.  But the sculpturing of that convex  concave surface would be oh so tough.  The tail wheel doors are small enough where the imperfections are not real apparent unless you look for them.  The dish feature on the wing ribs is a good bit larger, and imperfections would show up like a sore thumb methinks.  My 1/18 P-51D fuselage mounted landing gear doors were done similarly, are large, and the imperfections show up way more than I wanted.   And I would not be frank with you guys if I did not say that I am suffering a bit from battle fatigue with this giant project.  I am still managing to keep up the level of detail I know it deserves, but I find myself having to talk myself into alot of stuff that would be great but not entirely necessary.  Like the aileron drive arms that you will see next post - didn't really have to do them, and didn't want to either.  But I did them.  

Edited by JayW

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