Adrian A. Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 Hi Guy's, I'm going to be ordering some items in the next couple of days for my 1/24 P-51D Mustang; reference book, decals (Petie 3rd), paint, etc., and needed a bit of advice before I proceed. In my ongoing progression of 'practice' models (I'm really having fun 'practicing'!!), I attempt to try something new on each model. (Several new things if I can swing it). On this 1/24 P-51D, I've already tried detailing the engine a little bit (Where do all those hoses & wiring GO anyway??), placards, gauges & seatbelts in the cockpit (still working on that). I'll also try to hone my seam puttying skills a bit more. Which brings me to the real reason for this post... Unfortunately, as yet I don't possess the skills (or inclinatation at this point) to completely sand & rescribe this ship. (Maybe another practice item later?) I've read that both Alclad & SNJ need flawless or nearly flawless surfaces or the overall finish is affected. (Or am I mistaken?) So... is there a suitable aluminum finish out there that is more forgiving than Alclad or SNJ? One for less skilled modellers, yet still capable of giving a nice finish. I also have some Humbrol Metal Cote, but I am unsure if this paint will give a nice finish with unsanded surfaces. Anyone have any experience with this paint? I've used a spray Krylon RTA 9213 Aluminum on my Tuskegee P-51B & my P-38 Lightning and the finish was acceptable. But.. in line with trying something new to practice with, I am wanting to break in my airbrush & give it a whirl. Is there a suitable acrylic out there? Or are acrylic's unsuitable for aluminum finishes? Any advice or comments on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Adrian A.
D Bellis Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 For what its worth, I painted some of the corroded cast aluminum parts on my motorcycle with Floquil's "Old Silver". It is very difficult to distinguish between the painted parts and the brand-new cast aluminum parts I purchsed. Unless I'm going for a highly-polished look, I'll be doing all of my NMF schemes with it. JMHO, D
ChrisS Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 Ronnie Murray's Ki44 Done with a spray can of Testors Metalizer "Aluminum Plate" and buffed with a t-shirt. Just goes to show that low-tech can work. No muss no fuss, no mess and probably a pretty short paint job.
Tony O Posted October 23, 2003 Posted October 23, 2003 Adrian any paint job is only as good as the prep work. Alclad II tends to accentuate flaws and a good coat or three of primer rubbed down with 1200 grade wet n dry should do the job. Alcladd is superb stuff and dries in minutes. I can't stress highly enough what a godsend this is to an impatient person such as myself. No skill needed in sanding and scribing is just patience..and a steady hand ...er what was I saying about Alclad.....I think the trick to an authentic look is to mix and match paints on various areas to vary texture and shade. Something that unfortunately takes a bit of practice. metalcote is ok but needs buffing to get a sheen and isn't as durable as Alclad. SNJ is really prone to marking but looks the business, if you are tempted to seal SNJ, it loses a lot of the effect. Its basically a personal thing and just playing about until you find the one for you. There are acrylic metallics have a look on Hannants web site http://www.hannants.co.uk for a full listing. Acrylics can give you no end of grief in an airbrush unless you add a retarder so cleanliness is next to godliness! I always immediately flush through with clean cold water ( not hot it sets any acrylic residue off even quicker... HTH There's enough posted about this site on airbrush techniques to get you started.
LSP_Mike Posted October 24, 2003 Posted October 24, 2003 Adrien, I can tell you that I used alclad on an "oscar" and was able to apply 4-5 shades of silver in one session, maybe an hour, and once on ,the paint REALLY sticks. no fears of lifting an edge when you un -mask a kit to apply subsequent coats of paint. I'm so slow I like it just because its bullet proof and gives me a wide margin of error. BUT, trial and error to find the technique that works best for you;true with any paint. good luck-mike in calif
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