allthumbs Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) Achieving consistently clean and uniformaly straight engraved panel lines can be a challenge. Even against the solid edge of a metal ruler, it's common to experience needle "chatter" or localized "digging" as you draw the engraving tool across the model's surface, perhaps due to uneven finger pressure or soft spots in the plastic. Whatever the causes, it leaves behind a groove that's irregular and craggy, at least when viewed up-close or beside the crisply molded engravings that adorn modern kits. What to do? Many modelers have discovered how to chemically treat these imperfections with a light brushing of plastic solvent. This helps smooth out rough edges and dissolve burrs. Another perhaps less-well-known method is to attack the problem mechanically with what I call a "Poor Man's Slotting File." It's quick. It's easy. And, unlike the solvent trick, it works across a wide range of substrates, including putties and resins. Here's the rebuilt nose section of my EA-6A Electric Intruder. New panel lines were created along its surface, including atop areas built up with epoxy putty and cyanoacrylates. Here's a step-by-step guide... To start with, two parallel lines are scribed into a scrap piece of styrene plastic. The entire surface is block sanded flat, removing the raised ridges along each line. Afterward, the chiseled point of a wooden toothpick is used to clean out each channel. Next, the filing tool, made from .010 inch sheet plastic bonded to 1000 grit sandpaper and given a beveled edge, is gently drawn along both sides of one line. Position the sander so that its nearly 90 degrees to the surface. The goal is to straighten out imperfections without appreciably widening the groove. Note that one of the lines here is left untreated for comparison purposes. continued... ​ Edited June 29, 2016 by allthumbs Brandon Wood, BiggTim, Zero77 and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) Residual sanding dust is whisked away with a soft dry paintbrush. The plastic card then received a coat of Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1000. And here's the result (in each of the following pictures, the "untreated" line is on top) Granted, the difference is subtle. For one thing, I "lucked out" in the beginning with two successful (and fairly clean) draws from my scriber. This doesn't always happen! In these super close-ups though, the contrast becomes more apparent. Why bother then? Well, even from normal viewing distances, our eyes can detect (and our brains construe) the shadows and highlights cast by engraved panel lines. And a smooth-edged line, uninterrupted by micro blemishes, I would argue, prevails, especially given how little time it takes to apply this technique. The tool can be created in a few minutes time, from materials you likely have on hand. And dressing the panel line takes only a few seconds. So give it a try. It's easy as pie and I think you'll like the results it yields. Rich Edited August 21, 2016 by allthumbs Zero77, A-10LOADER, Starfighter and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Thanks for posting this, Rich. I think that those of us who bother with rescribing at all, are always looking for better and easier ways to do it, and this looks like a very useful technique to have in the tool bag. Can you explain a bit more about how you made the tool itself? I take it that the abrasive sheet extends past the plastic card backing by a fraction of a mm? Kev Big Texan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckT Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Awesome info! allthumbs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) Hi Kev, I should have been clearer. For the sanding tool, I cut out a piece of .010 inch plastic card (about the size of a small guitar pick). Coat one side of the plastic with CA glue and lay it down flat against the back side of a sheet wet/dry sandpaper (I use fine grit 1000). After the glue drys, trim away any excess paper with a sharp hobby knife or razor blade. Create a bevel on the "working edge" of the tool. That is, slice it at an angle so that the sanding side is prolongated. Here's a crude illustration.. When the sanding edge becomes dull, just slice it off (again, at an angle) to create a fresh threshold. For really fine lines, you can get away with using fresh sandpaper by itself. Just remember to slice it an angle. Without the plastic backing though, it is prone to crumpling. Another variation is to substitute plastic sanding film http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes8802.htm for wet/dry. These films are thinner than conventional sandpaper and they bond well to the plastic card backing. Thanks for your interest! Rich Edited June 29, 2016 by allthumbs A-10LOADER, Brandon Wood, Wouter and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thanks for posting...! I re-scribe a lot, with mixed results. I will gladly try any tips I can get. allthumbs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thanks for the additional explanations, Rich. Kev allthumbs and A-10LOADER 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Very nice technique, and the result on your own model is just great. Thanks a lot for sharing ! allthumbs and A-10LOADER 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I think this would make a great Tips article for the website. May I republish it there, Rich? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) Sure Kev, that's fine. My full name, btw, is Richard Brumm. Edited June 29, 2016 by allthumbs LSP_Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 I actually designed a tool that works on a similar principle a few years ago. Please have a look here: http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_110&products_id=417 Radu allthumbs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 I've just put this together as an article on the website: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=2751 Kev allthumbs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 While your card/abrasive tool looks like it works well, I think I'll stick with buffing with extra-fine wire wool after scribing. It's a bit dusty to clear up afterwards, but it cuts away any imperfections and polishes the plastic or resin to a shine too. Harold and allthumbs 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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