TorbenD Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 (edited) Evenin' all - Phew! Finally managed to squeeze some me time in to work on the doors and rear shelf. Having painted the inside of the doors black to make the windows visually appear thinner then I decided I wasn't happy with the slight distortion on the windows and convinced myself that half open windows would be way cooler...so out came the mini-drill - looks like some bizarre battle damage! I bit of careful cleaning with a jewellers file and on with the main photoetch Once set, I noticed the PE panel wandered a little off its mark on the RHS door - rather than remove and potentially damage it I tweaked the edges with a sliver of Milliput to square things up visually before painting and adding some of the extra PE. My ongoing battle with PE continued with trying to add the tiny door furnishings etc. but having mucked up the first one I wisely retreated early ready to fight another day - I'll possibly scratch these out of stretched sprue nearer the end of the build. The rear shelf came next. The original holes in the rear panel were misshapen so I filled them in, removed all the detail before re-drilling and replacing the 3 framing bars in strip plastic card. Without the IFF equipment in the RAF versions this area felt a little bare - in my research I'd noticed some versions with a small low framework/shelf (any ideas anyone?) in the rear half so decided to add this subtle detail made from thin brass sheet cut to size and carefully scored/bent to represent what I saw in my refs. The corner posts were added after painting from thinned out plastic rod. I had to strip and repaint this shelf after mucking up the pin-wash first time round - still not sure if I've cracked it either... I still have to add a few scratches/weathering on the doors and shelf too, although will use sparingly on the rear shelf as this was largely sealed in by the armoured glass. I'm currently fettling a thin sheet of clear plastic sheet to replace the kit armoured glass which no longer fits due to the inner frame work detailing I did earlier Thanks for watching - not sure when I'll next get some progress shots uploaded, hopefully not too long next time. Cheers, Torben Edited August 11, 2017 by TorbenD Hubert Boillot, ShotMagnet, 109 and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Lovely work, Torben! Kev TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Progress is progress! TorbenD and Joel_W 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Damn nice work on that door. Good show. Sincerely, Mark TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Very nice work, Torben! HÃ¥kan TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeblack Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Going along nicely, Torben - keep it up! Mike TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Torben Terrific progress and some mighty nice detail work Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Have to agree with Peter, the detail work is very convincing Torben. You're a brave man taking out that perspex window too especially after your experience with the canopy, but I agree it would have been hard to live with the distortion. Max TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 (edited) Evening all, Belated thanks for all your kind words or encouragement. A minor(ish) update... Life/work stuff continues to get in the way so progress is doubly slow recently and I'm afraid the Group Build deadline is going to go flying by without this particular bird. Not helped by my constant redoing what doesn't come up to the “fussy b&st*rd/do it again better†standard I've set for myself - But heck, I'm having fun along the way. That and my constant feeding of the carpet monster as this and that micro bit of crafted plastic and wire goes pinging off the end of my tweezers or slips between my clumsy fat fingers rarely to be seen again. My scratch built trim wheel ended up being a fraction too thick to fit comfortably in the space between the box-frame and seat so had to remake. That said, much happier with the result using a different technique with stretched sprue created frame very carefully build and glued to a finer gauge wire outer frame (and a shed load of patience) I also started scratching the throttle quadrant, which ended up being more straight forward than I thought it would be. I carefully hollowed out the central channel of the kit part - created a new inner top section and once dry and sanded level and added the levers from 20thou plastic card and micro balls from a water filter cartridge. Still got to scratch all the connecting rods which I intend to do with thin brass rod with flattened ends at the link points. I know Eduard do PE for this but I'm not a fan of flat etch representing round rods with flat etch (plus I won't have fun learning how to do it on the way! My biggest learning this time was to start by leaving the part on the sprue as a handle so easy to hold whilst the micro surgery happened (and the CM didn't get another meal ) Talking of which I think I'm going to do as much of the various handles and switches out of stretched sprue as I can - I feel can flatten, bend, glue and carve it with more pleasing results than the PE provided. I've recently added Eric Brown's Wings of the Weird and Wonderful to my library which has a great chapter on this very aircraft including some great annotated illustrations of the interior from the Pilots Notes book. I simply had to start adding the detail - here's the LHS section - the RHS to do. Still needs a little cleaning up... Finally, beyond getting some Montex masks, the only Aftermarket I thought I'd treat myself to were some Scale Aircraft Conversions metal legs as I'm slightly concerned about the stretch of the kit undercarriage once I have all the nose weights in etc. I have to say I'm really disappointed with these - I know they are cast metal but the detail was way softer that I expected and in my set the mould clearly wasn't that well aligned which meant that once the offset and seams started to dealt with the fine framework on the front forks all but disappeared and any attempt to have a round tubular cross-section up this slim leg was impossible - in the image below the one on the right is partially cleaned up in the fork area and still has an offset and the outer frame has been filed off on the reverse side! So I started to think what if..? .. but then my mini-drill fused... Is this a sign I should stop worrying about the weight and just use the very decent kit legs? Until next time... Cheers for looking in, Torben Edited August 11, 2017 by TorbenD ShotMagnet, Joel_W, Whitey and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Progress might be slow, Torben, but it's still mighty impressive! And yes, I'd stick with the kit legs. What you've discovered about your SAC set is a universally understood truth about that range of products. Kev TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Hi Torben, I would use the kit UC legs also, as they really look fine. Beautiful work on that cockpit, hope mine will look as nice! TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 This throttle quadrant is epic ! As for the SAC gear, well, now you know you'd been better off buying a bottle of wine for the same price . At least you'd have enjoyed it ! The kit LG seems OK as far as I know. If you go the truned metal route, I would advise brass rather than aluminium, as you can solder the forks and things like that with brass, and not so much with alu. Keepi it coming Hubert Whitey and TorbenD 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeblack Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Hello Torben Many thanks for your comprehensive update, and while it will be a trifle disappointing not to make the deadline at least you are enjoying the build - which is the main thing! Your cockpit build is beautiful and most inspiring. I can also appreciate your thoughts on the efficacy of PE: being a returnee to modelling I was initially enthralled by it but now I'm not so sure...the jury is still out! And as I'd like to develop more scratch building skills ahead of a series of vacuform kits then using PE won't do the trick. So joining this GB has given me a lot of food for thought. Finally, I've been giving thought to the strength of the undercarriage legs on my Uhu: with so much weight in the nose I've inserted a brass rod in the nose gear for starters but now I'm pondering the mains. Keep up the great work and I'll keep following your progress!! Mike TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Very nice work! HÃ¥kan TorbenD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Very impresive!.....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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