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1/32 FLY Hurricane: spinning wild


quang

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Nice pic, Quang! I can see why you want to model that aircraft. Perfect SAAF noseart. 

The Fly Type 2 guns look pretty darn good, too, but I still think I will go with Master barrels; they are simply amazing although I the price is also amazingly high.

 

You can see why I asked if you were going to add rivets to the fuselage. One vertical double row shows up nicely above the armorers(?) right shoulder. They would need to be smaller than what you used on the radiator housing, though.

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Fantastic build Quang! I too like using Archer's rivet decals and they're definitely worth having in the ol' tool box. With regards to the rough spots spattered out of the airbrush, couldn't you pick it off or clean it up with the tip of a #11 blade? If you loose a rivet you could always replace it individually.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

I tried to clean up the rough spots and ended removing the whole coat of primer and at the same time all the rivets on the radiator housing :BANGHEAD2:

So I guess there's another riveting session in sight. I'll use larger rivets this time for the first ones looked a bit skimpy IMO.

 

 

Nice pic, Quang! I can see why you want to model that aircraft. Perfect SAAF noseart. 

The Fly Type 2 guns look pretty darn good, too, but I still think I will go with Master barrels; they are simply amazing although I the price is also amazingly high.

 

I agree the Master guns are amazing. Furthermore I don't like the idea of the two resin guns poking out of the wings. When they break (as they surely will), I'll replace them with the Masters.

 

 

You can see why I asked if you were going to add rivets to the fuselage. One vertical double row shows up nicely above the armorers(?) right shoulder. They would need to be smaller than what you used on the radiator housing, though.

 

I see 'em now that you mentioned it.  :doh: I'll try to add them on if the ones I have are not too big.

One question about the springbok on the nose. It's much more precise and finely done than the usual nose arts. I wonder whether it's not a decal. I have seen the same springbok on at least one other a/c of the 1 sqn. Here on a Mk.1(?). Note exhaust deflector.

scan0001.jpg.opt1252x911o00s1252x911.jpg

 

I've always seen the springbok on the port side. Is it repeated on the starboard as well? Can you or some other member shed a light on that matter?

 

Thank you all for your contribution to this build.

 

Sincerely,

Quang

 

 

 

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BTW, Quang, you have seen this, haven't you? http://www.saairforce.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5638

 

Yes indeed Ray. 

 

Also check out the numerous websites created by Tinus le Roux and dedicated to the men and machines of SAAF in WW2. Truly a labour of love. :bow:  :bow:  :bow:

 

http://saafww2photographs.yolasite.com/bomb-finney-north-africa-photographs-album-1.php

http://saafww2pilots.yolasite.com/photographs.php

http://saafww2pilots.yolasite.com/links.php

 

Fascinating stuff about life in a squadron at war and an absolute necessary background to a thorough build.

 

Incidentally, what triggered my research for a colour scheme was this painting by Antonis Karilis which reveals itself to be less than accurate than I thought. :doh:

unnamed.jpg

 

Cheers,

Quang

Edited by quang
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Thank you Johnny for the kind words.

 

Let's get on with the build. It's about time we give our Hurri some feathers. 

 

The wings are assembled and given plasticard tabs to aid to a positive assembly with the fuselage. The tabs also help to keep the mating parts level thus avoiding the dreaded step at the wing root.

B3138255-361B-40AB-AA8C-3B8C999FE092.jpg

 

The lower join is near perfect.

E1747F1A-A71E-401B-8F34-079FB859DC38.jpg

 

The upper join much less so. :BANGHEAD2:  

8758CBD8-F3C8-4B26-8053-00FFE159E966.jpg

 

I could close the gap by sheer force but then the dihedral would not be correct. So I decided to glue the wings with the correct dihedral and close the gap with milliput. 

 

Here's how to use milliput with minimal fuss. First protect both sides of the gap with Scotch tape (sellotape).

C9F00365-2B9B-4EED-B386-ACBC235D8C92.jpg

 

Milliput is applied using a toothpick as a rolling pin then smoothed with a wet finger. Leave overnight. Smooth the excess with # 800 wet-or-dry. Remove tape. Et voilà!

808F2CFA-D21E-41C3-AE10-E5B6E1B5BCE7.jpg

 

The lower join is conveniently hidden by brass etchings. Note that the 2 strips are sided (right and left)  :unsure:

DC657D9E-AF12-45E4-BB10-2DEDB68D2998.jpg

B8D60CCD-C79C-401F-A650-C3D5AB0FBAAA.jpg

 

I tried to smooth out the rough spots on the radiator housing … and ended up removing my painstakingly applied rivets  :BANGHEAD2:

So I thoroughly cleaned up the area and added new rivets.

53999E54-6973-402A-A967-6D3F1A95F7C5.jpg

 

I also added rivets to the metal panels on the fuselage. Thanks Ray for the heads-up!

7822BB7A-059B-4BE9-A083-223A6EAE7ECF.jpg

 

Here's how they look under a coat of primer

D8F72D75-2024-4EB3-9BE3-D095FB07FA07.jpg

 

836281F3-B9F7-4AF6-8D21-059B0D1C4355.jpg

 

4DC5667B-1765-4311-8BC8-C8997D6D3E9D.jpg

 

F3A3CF70-0C99-40BC-BBC4-649CDEB854EB.jpg

 

AC875AD2-066E-4BB1-AB73-8138DE727238.jpg

 

These rivet decals really add a great deal of realism to a build. The more I use them the more I'm convinced they will be unavoidable in my future projects.

 

45677c134cce429828026145e11a148c.jpg

 

Cheers,

Quang

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Excellent work, Quang! I'm starting to regret not biting the bullet and using Milliput on my P-39, now. Still at least I know the requisite strength is there. Looking forward to more of your terrific progress!

 

Kev

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Kev,

 

My priority has always been to get the correct dihedral first, then comes the strong bond and lastly a smooth join.

In the case of my Hurri, the strength of the bond is provided by the spar and the small tabs. The milliput acts merely as a filler.

 

Remember: glue bonds and filler fills. Don't expect them to work the other way round.

 

Some people favour Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculp because they dry harder than Milliput and therefore should give a stronger bond.

It is simply not true. A harder filler would only be harder to sand. More importantly, if the filler is harder than the surrounding plastic, we tend to remove more plastic than filler when we sand thus disfiguring the join in the process.

 

Hardness of the filler is very important. It's the reason why Milliput comes in 4 or 5 varieties of grain/hardness for the hobbyist to choose.

 

HTH

Quang

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Guest Peterpools

Quang!

Outstanding research and transferring the details and corrections to the Fly kit requires extraordinary skills and craftsmanship.

Keep 'em coming

Peter :popcorn:

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Looks great, Quang! Those rivets look spot on! Brings the level of detail closer to the wings. How much rivet repair is the leading edge wing seam going to need? I was looking at that on my kit...

I like your method with the Milliput. Which hardness did you use?

I was wondering if a couple of sprue spreaders would have helped? Or would they have been visible through the cockpit?

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Quang!

Outstanding research and transferring the details and corrections to the Fly kit requires extraordinary skills and craftsmanship.

Keep 'em coming

Peter :popcorn:

 

Thank you Peter for the kind words. It's been years that I haven't gone this far on a model and it's you guys that keep me going. Really  :bow:

 

 

Looks great, Quang! Those rivets look spot on! Brings the level of detail closer to the wings. How much rivet repair is the leading edge wing seam going to need? I was looking at that on my kit...

 

FLY has obligingly done the rivets in the leading edge areas in engraved fashion, thinking that it would be easier for us to restore them after sanding.

But now that I've learned how to do it, it would be even easier to replace the lost details by Archer rivets. Hopefully  :rolleyes:

 

 

I like your method with the Milliput. Which hardness did you use?

I use the Superfine White Milliput.

 

I was wondering if a couple of sprue spreaders would have helped? Or would they have been visible through the cockpit?

The cockpit area is a can of worms. Sprue spreaders would only make it worse IMO. The worse risk would be the whole cockpit tubular structure plopping down as the fuselage sides are spread. Talking about a nightmare!  :frantic:

 

Cheers,

Quang

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