Bill_S Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 (edited) I got this kit last week, and I couldn't resist opening it up to sniff the styrene. I'm going to take this one slow, as a fill-in when I've got things drying on my George builds - or as a mojo enhancer when I get bogged down. This will be a strictly OOB build, too. At this point, I plan on building it buttoned up - though ungainly, I find the lines of this plane pleasing. First impressions: Despite the lack of exterior rivet detail, despite the molding of exterior surfaces in clear plastic - it's a beautiful kit. The molded-in details are in a word, crisp. What parts I have put together fit like a glove. The instruction booklet is comprehensive. The only improvement I can recommend as I start is that I wish the color photos of completed assemblies were a little larger. At the bottom of each page is a legend on paint colors used in the steps for that page. No flipping back to the front to look at color callouts! I've given the fuselage halves a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500 black (new to me, but highly recommended). I didn't really see ejector pin marks until I primed - another disadvantage of clear plastic and old eyes. Here we go... I poted this on another thread, but it's important! Do NOT use snips to remove this sprue attachment point! Notice the ejector pin marks. On mine, they are raised. Some forethought will be required to prevent tail sitting. I've looked at every conceivable place to add weight (as far forward as possible). Before my dentist retired, he gave me bags of sheet lead from used dental x-ray film. They're very good for filling small oddly shaped crevices, like the back side of the supercharger. More weight added to the Mk 103 ammo chutes. lead shot and J-B weld. I would recommend using a fuselage half to set the proper angle on the rear cockpit bulkhead. A detail shot of the fuel compartment bulkhead. I have yet to do any detailing. And the nose gear bay with a coat of RLM 02 I gave the IP a coat of Mr. Surfacer and applied the decal once dry. I opted to use the single decal for the entire panel. This decal was thick! It took several coats of Microsol to finally get it to settle in. I would recommend cutting off the four red switches at the bottom and applying them separately. Otherwise, that single decal will have to traverse two 90 degree bends. I couldn't get that part to line up properly.. That's all for today. Edited August 8, 2017 by Bill_S dutik, Kagemusha, Doctorgaz and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wurzacher Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Good detail and progress for a week! I have seen a re-build instrument panel at the Dornier archive last sunday! What a surprise! I hope to get a picture to post this. Your IP looks great; I only would have used the single instrument decals for a better fit. The red knobs will be primed in white and then given a red colour when I do mine. Really, you made a promising start! Following with interest! Bill_S and Uncarina 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Good detail and progress for a week! I have seen a re-build instrument panel at the Dornier archive last sunday! What a surprise! I hope to get a picture to post this. Your IP looks great; I only would have used the single instrument decals for a better fit. The red knobs will be primed in white and then given a red colour when I do mine. Really, you made a promising start! Following with interest! Thanks, Wurzacher! I considered going the single instrument path, but I'm going to save those for my Arado 196 - which came without any! Uncarina and Wurzacher 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 The details are really impressive. The wheel bay is almost as good as if it was resin. Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian79 Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Bill, you need to get a set of the sharp pointed tamiya nippers, they cut smooth and close with no issues, the rest looks good! Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Very impressive start. Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 BIll Nice start on the Arrow and the IP looks excellent. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Looking good so far. Thanks for the tips on handling the clear fuselage parts. I have the Ho229 in the stash so it's good to know. Carl Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 (edited) Cockpit is nearly complete! Another. Getting decent light on that IP is tough. Radiator housing... Edited August 8, 2017 by Bill_S jgrease, Wurzacher and Uncarina 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wurzacher Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Really nice, Bill! May I add that you could paint the four valves in red? Middle section of the IP, at the bottom? This is a re-build Do 335 instrument panel, preserved at the Dornier archive. I have seen this (and other stuff) last sunday and got permission to post this picture in public: See the four valves and their "Auf - Zu" (open - closed) marking? Bill_S and Uncarina 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted May 27, 2016 Author Share Posted May 27, 2016 Thanks for the photo! Those valves are red on my IP; it's just very hard to photograph that thing! Wurzacher 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian79 Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Great pic of the instrument panel! Bill_S and Wurzacher 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) I'm working on the engines; a note about order of assembly! Z-M would have you cement part E-23 (fuel injector pump) early in the assembly process. This part ultimately is to be painted silver - almost everything else is black. In the assembly sequence, it goes in prior to any of the engine accessories mounted on the back. Here it is installed in the front engine: Once I got to this stage, I sprayed the entire assembly with Mr. Surfacer 1500. It leaves a nice finish, I'd almost call it a semi-flat. Painting that part isn't going to be fun. In addition wiring harnesses are added in a later step. Presence of part E-23 hampers installation of the harnesses. Rear engine with ignition harness. Unpainted E-23 in the foreground... It took some jockeying, but I did manage to get the harness into the front engine. The detail on the engines is incredible. Parts fit together very well. In my opinion, there is excessive slop in the front prop shaft. If I get propeller droop, I'll just CA the thing in place. Don't forget to add weight to the front engine - it is by far the best place to add it. In my next post, I'll point out every place I added weight. Thanks for looking in! Edited August 8, 2017 by Bill_S Uncarina and Wurzacher 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Very nice progress, Bill! Kev Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Coming along nicely Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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