Starfighter Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Wow, the stressed skin looks very realistic! F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Hi Milan For a background, a neutral color.shade/toner would be a mid tone Gray of mid tone blue. White is a hard background because it greatly effects the overall exposure and the camera unless you adjust your exposure. I prefer a dark blue background which helps pop the model and doesn't have much effect on the overall exposure. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 (edited) I`ll chek out for grey/blue paper in the store. For photographing the Harrier i used exactly dark blue background, but a textile one, with very matt surface, looked to me the same as the surface of the billiard tables. The results wasn`t pretty, but that is definitely because of my cameras - a phone camera and ipad camera. Well, for the final pics of this model i plan something way more professional but i`ll leave it as a surprise, if... someday... Edited February 21, 2017 by F`s are my favs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsahling1 Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 First, a good reference photo is a must for knowing what you want to achieve. This is a cropped/zoomed one, the original is from Airliners: And i have a couple more at very low angle that also show the pattern sufficiently well. Then, it`s just scratching the surface with a knife with a curved blade. Lots of scratching and everywhere, but very gently, the shavings have to look like dust rather than shavings. The rivets and the panel lines should not be deleted as well. And then, it`s a lot of sanding to smoothen the indentations from the blade even more. This is actually what makes the scratches to look like ripples, waves, etc. I start with 320 grit, the entire surfaces, then with 800 grit (which is actually the same 320 grit but the opposite side of the same piece of sandpaper, which is very very used and is more like 800). These two treatments do remove from the plastic and especially with more tention. Then, i "sand" everything with a very used 1000 grit sandpaper, which is rather like a polish. It does not remove from the plastic, just makes it shiny like before. PS, check out page 8 and 9, there i started with the pylons and the fuselage, the wings and the vertical stabilizers are texturised around p.10. The stabilators are almost intact. Thanks for the tip! Next time I decide on a "kitchen sink" build I might have to give this a go. Isn't there a 1/48th B-52 supposed to be coming out soon??????? I can't wait to see some paint on yours, please do some weathering, those F-15Es can really take nicely to it and combined with this stressed skin effect you've got going its going to a showstopper. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finn Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Great work, of course you can always have a few replacement parts, including some from the F-15C: Jari Marcel111 and F`s are my favs 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 (edited) Jari, striking pic! I have it. It is in a folder named "weathering zoom above" I`ll avoid the replacement parts like in this case the flap and the wingtip, but I plan to make the exact same metallic finish like on this pic It is clearly visible on the intake ramps and in front of the canopy. Especially that contrast between metalic shine and normal paint is something that i like a lot. It`s tested and i think i will manage to do it justly. Edited February 21, 2017 by F`s are my favs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperfixer Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 I don't know if you guys are familiar with modern, high performance jet skins, plates and panels, but it's very tough, not flexible at all, a few millimetres thick, very hard aluminium alloy and because of that pretty sensitive for cracks. It's nothing like world war 2 era planes material. So "oil canning" or "stressed skin effect" is pretty unlikely, although it looks like it on that picture. geedubelyer, F`s are my favs and Eagle Driver 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Well, when it comes to the real plane, I could only see pictures and videos , but in all cases it's obvious that the surfaces are not mirror flat like in a oob model. I like it a lot how it looks like after that stressed effect. It's very subtle indeed and the difference is barely noticeable only at very shallow angle, otherwise it looks like before, perfectly flat. I think I found my Nirvana with this "weathering" effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finn Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Here are some examples of a/c out in the real world, some are shiny and clean: others have been out in the sun and sand for awhile: note the intake ramp on this one: Jari F`s are my favs and Planesimple81 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 I don't know if you guys are familiar with modern, high performance jet skins, plates and panels, but it's very tough, not flexible at all, a few millimetres thick, very hard aluminium alloy and because of that pretty sensitive for cracks. It's nothing like world war 2 era planes material. So "oil canning" or "stressed skin effect" is pretty unlikely, although it looks like it on that picture. I think that the images that show significant "oil-canning" on modern aircraft are often of jets making hard manoeuvres and under extreme stress. The g-force appears to temporarily ripple the aircraft skin which then settles back to nearly flat when in normal flight. Jari's images seem to show that there are certain areas that appear distorted even in normal flight though. Cheers. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finn Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Don't forget the rivets: Jari Marcel111 and F`s are my favs 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 my god those are some amazing pics F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 I saved them... really amazing pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperfixer Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Well, maybe in the extreme low temperatures of high altitude or under high G- loads it can happen in certain area's but I don't see it on planes on the ground. The metal is made to be strong and keep its shape and will crack easily when it's deformed. Anyway, it doesn't mean I don't like your build, I love it! It will certainly look great when it's finished. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Driver Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi Milan For a background, a neutral color.shade/toner would be a mid tone Gray of mid tone blue. White is a hard background because it greatly effects the overall exposure and the camera unless you adjust your exposure. I prefer a dark blue background which helps pop the model and doesn't have much effect on the overall exposure. Keep 'em coming Peter I wouldn't waste my time trying to explain that. It has been done several times already and he just doesn't seems to listen. Or his receiver is tuned at another freq. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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