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1/18 Spitfire Mk. XIVe - Race #80

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Peter, thanks for your reply, much appreciated.

 

Chuck, great tip with Great Planes Debonder - I'll have to find some and give it a try. Thank-you!

 

Norm.

 

 

I have some of the GP debonder as well as some of the "Hobby Town" brand of debonder.................

 

Just be careful with them!   I found both of them act the same way, and not only do they seem to attack the top green coating of my self-healing mat, but they also attack IM plastic ( Ask me how i know! :lol:  ).

 

It sounds stupid of me, but years ago I had not ever used debonder before, and it was the consistency of water and had virtually no smell, so didnt bother checking the interwebs to see if it was not compatible with any types of materials, and found the hard way it was NOT compatible with IM plastic, when I attempted to use some to remove some small CA spots on the vertical stab of my Has P-40E.

It marred the rudder horribly before I wiped it off, and had to fill the spots in, and re-scribe the entire vertical stab.

Edited by Out2gtcha

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I have some of the GP debonder as well as some of the "Hobby Town" brand of debonder.................

 

Just be careful with them!   I found both of them act the same way, and not only do they seem to attack the top green coating of my self-healing mat, but they also attack IM plastic ( Ask me how i know! :lol:  ).

 

It sounds stupid of me, but years ago I had not ever used debonder before, and it was the consistency of water and had virtually no smell, so didnt bother checking the interwebs to see if it was not compatible with any types of materials, and found the hard way it was NOT compatible with IM plastic, when I attempted to use some to remove some small CA spots on the vertical stab of my Has P-40E.

It marred the rudder horribly before I wiped it off, and had to fill the spots in, and re-scribe the entire vertical stab.

 

 

Weird.  I have never had that problem with GP debonder on plastic.  I used lots of it on a Q-tip on my last 3 builds directly on plastic and it didn't eat anything.  My bet is that it's plastic specific, so thanks for the warning!  I'll do a test piece next time, but I already know on my Tamiya F-15C kit I have no such issues.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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evening folks :)

 

 

I have a suggestion if you don't mind me posting it here.  I used to have all sorts of grief with PE brass and CA glue, because no matter how careful I was, some glue always showed or I glued the tiny parts on crooked.  CA glue debonder would eliminate some of the mess and allow re-positioning of some parts, but it was always a struggle and I dreaded using PE brass until I discovered this:  "Great Planes" Debonder".  This CA glue debonder is extra strength and it will get rid of ALL the mess and it will help remove ALL the parts if you want it to.  It works so good that I'm not really all that careful anymore with gluing PE brass, because I know I can remove any extra residue easily.  I position the parts in place and then use a microbrush, like the one below soaked in thin CA glue, to apply the glue to the sides of the join, allowing capillary action to suck the glue underneath.  When I'm done, I use a clean microbrush soaked in GP debonder and wipe up the remaining residue.  Perfect join and no mess.  Now I love using PE parts and have no fear of gluing them.  One caution, however, is that the debonder will eat paint, so glue cleanup should always be done on bare plastic or brass parts.

 

 

Thanks Chuck - please post away - littering this thread with useful info will be much more than I am doing with it and most welcome.. :coolio:..  I tried to get some Gret Planes Debonder, but apparently is is flammable so cannot be shipped by air and no-one in the UK carries it. There is a Zap-a-gap one though which is the cement I use so will try that..

 

 

Missed this, the seat photos on page one are mine :) that's what I put them online for, to get used.If you get stuck PM me I might be able o supply you with Manufacturers drawings a I have a lot of them.

I have a large collection of MK 19 pictures on line btw.

 

Thanks for dropping by Tony - and thanks for the loan of the superb seat pics - looking at your other pics it seems you have loads of reference material I might need so will definately be in touch :)

 

 

Just curious, I really like that shade of black (or dark grey?) that you're using for the panel. What is it, or is it a custom mix?

 

Hi Craig - this is an easy one - it is just Tamiya Nato Black - a useful very dark grey.. the only issue with it is that it is very matt but can be given a sheen with a careful rub here and there..

 

 

   Hey Peter....Can I have it when your finished?   :piliot:

 

haha - I wish I could gift it - I have an idea of what I want to do with it but we will see..

 

fantastic......would love to some 1/18 stuff like that panel for the SBD

 

hmm, never say never Rob - I am just releasing brass panels for a load of 1/24 kits - I may look to 1/18 too once I see how these go..

 

so, a little bit done on the Spit - I have been unreasonably busy lately so not much time at the bench...

 

carried on with the panel and wanted to do the little oblong Oil Pressure gauge so I cut one from a spare panel and bent it to it's rounded shape, I also prepared the acetate printout and shaped this too..

 

WIP156_zps7othhfef.jpg

 

..I painted it before assembly so I could get all around it - here I am masking for a little filler to give it solid sides..

 

WIP157_zps06thbgpq.jpg#

 

..painted up a load of parts in various blacks and also did the Boost gauge in it's characteristic dark red..

 

WIP158_zpstwj0i6pi.jpg

 

..and added the oxygen panel, Brake gauge, U/C indicator saying 'Up' and 'Down' and started some of the detail painting..

 

WIP159_zpsg7ojwuc6.jpg

 

WIP160_zpsajiivqx2.jpg

 

WIP161_zpsrum8uawg.jpg

 

..looking at it in these pics I can see some improvements and there is still a lot to add so by no means the finished article..

 

speak soon..

 

TTFN
Peter

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Awesome stuff, Peter! Just a note, though: NATO Black (or at least Tamiya's formulation of it) is in fact a very dark green. If you spray a very thin coat over white styrene, you can see it.

 

Kev

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Awesome stuff, Peter! Just a note, though: NATO Black (or at least Tamiya's formulation of it) is in fact a very dark green. If you spray a very thin coat over white styrene, you can see it.

 

Kev

 

wow - didn't know that Kev - oh well it's done now so as Ivana would say 'it is vot it is darlink...'

 

..I present the first green nearly finished Spitfire panel....

 

WIP162_zpsb1dqhrgd.jpg

 

WIP163_zpsvf2ue5mh.jpg

 

WIP166_zpstfjxrtll.jpg

 

WIP165_zpsm3txq77y.jpg

 

WIP164_zpsckqx6myf.jpg

 

WIP167_zpsnfp8vb3k.jpg

 

..enjoyed that - so now onto more of the cockpit structure..

 

TTFN

Peter

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wow - didn't know that Kev - oh well it's done now so as Ivana would say 'it is vot it is darlink...'

 

Don't worry, Peter - I think it works very well as a scale black, as evidenced by your amazing result!

 

Kev

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