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1/18 Spitfire Mk. XIVe - Race #80

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Peter, I have a dumb question, to me (anyway) the seat seems to be pretty low. Is this because its a racer? Pardon my ignorance.....Harv

Knowing him and his crazy skill set it's probably got working height adjustment built in just like the real deal.

Edited by ade rowlands

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Knowing him and his crazy skill set it's probably got working height adjustment built in just like the real deal.

 

If I remember back to earlier in the thread, I think the seat adjuster did work!!! I'm off to have a look to make sure I wasn't imagining it!

 

Best regards;

Steve

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evening folks :)

 

 

Hello Peter,

 

Your components all look uber realistic as we've come to expect. Beautiful work.

 

Did you experiment with metal foil?

I can see why you might attempt to use a micro cloth to provide texture but even in 1/18th scale I can't magine cloth weave would be particularly noticable?

If you are still unhappy with your belts and if it's not too late, may I humbly suggest using the metal foil from around the neck of some wine bottles? Not the stiff, brittle type on screw neck bottles but rather the soft, pliable version on bottles with corks.

 

..thats something I wish I had tried GD - I guess I just dived into it and actually hated doing them so much I don't know if I will revisit them :rolleyes:

 

Those belts look pretty darn good in the photos Peter.

 

Genuine question... why are you not as happy as you want to be with them?

 

Torben

 

Thanks Torben - I don't know really, they look a bit clumsy and don't hang as loosely or naturally as I would like- I think they are the best I can do, but a set of HGW ones for a Sutton Q harness would put them to shame in a New York minute..

 

 

Peter, I have a dumb question, to me (anyway) the seat seems to be pretty low. Is this because its a racer? Pardon my ignorance.....Harv

 

..there is no such thing as a dumb question Harv - especially when I am building... I will have to check the seat - it should be right as it is made & fitted as per the drawings and as has been observed does move and is set to pretty much it's highest position - one for me to look at, thanks :)

 

onto the rudder pedals - they can be seen here as fairly simple shapes with tread areas mounted on tubular assemblies with star adjusters for reach, I guess for long & short legs :)

 

WIP1181_zpswofwmneu.jpg

 

--I started with the sides as blanks out of thick sheet aluminium and the tread areas from PE I made right at the beginning - these were annealed to curve better and mounted to plastic tube to get an even radius...

 

WIP1182_zpslvdsl9oy.jpg

 

..assembled with the mounting spigots underneath...

 

WIP1183_zpseqelfcdr.jpg

 

..which were then mounted onto the basic tube that runs the length of the assembly...

 

WIP1184_zpsveqpnmda.jpg

 

..in the monforton book there are close ups that show a threaded area where the star adjusters are so these were made from ting springs from my box of old watch bits...

 

WIP1185_zpsngvf3azs.jpg#

 

..and the assembled units..

 

WIP1186_zpsgcvwukc8.jpg

 

WIP1187_zpsf7hskffk.jpg

 

thats it for now..

 

Peter

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What size shoe fits them ??.........Harv :popcorn:

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Peter,

 

When reviewing your posted pics, I often have to re-check them, because sometimes I don't know which are pics of the real deal and which ones are of your "model".  I'm serious. :unsure:

 

So now I have a question, which I'm sure you have been asked many times before, because it's so obvious.  How do you fabricate so many tiny parts out of real metal with the correct sized fasteners to boot?  We know you are famous for your photo-etch products, but you must also have some very specific training- and specific tools and equipment far beyond the average handy-man- to create these gems for parts.   Are these work-related?  Sorry to be so nosy, but a little info in this regard would be most appreciated, to understand how human hands can accomplish these awesome feats.  Otherwise we'll have to continue to suspect that you're an alien. :lol:

 

Curious Chuck

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As wonderfully awesome as ever Peter, those pedals look the business!

 

Going back a stage - whilst most of us mortals would be delighted to get belts half as good, if you still find those pesky belts are still niggling away at you then, as previously suggested, bottle top/lead foil could well be worth a try. I've experimented in the past by adding a woven texture by pressing/rubbing firmly the soft foil against the face of a flat jeweller's file. Maybe worth a quick play... it's not like you can't handle metal with elven dexterity.

 

Torben

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thanks chaps :)

 

Peter,

 

When reviewing your posted pics, I often have to re-check them, because sometimes I don't know which are pics of the real deal and which ones are of your "model".  I'm serious. :unsure:

 

So now I have a question, which I'm sure you have been asked many times before, because it's so obvious.  How do you fabricate so many tiny parts out of real metal with the correct sized fasteners to boot?  We know you are famous for your photo-etch products, but you must also have some very specific training- and specific tools and equipment far beyond the average handy-man- to create these gems for parts.   Are these work-related?  Sorry to be so nosy, but a little info in this regard would be most appreciated, to understand how human hands can accomplish these awesome feats.  Otherwise we'll have to continue to suspect that you're an alien. :lol:

 

Curious Chuck

 

Hi Chuck & thank you

 

If I am honest you are about to be disappointed - no special tools, no training and really no special skills - not above & beyond what you might do with plastic. I actually find metal easier to work than plastic as it deforms less so can be worked to cleaner tolerances..

 

my toolkit is no different to anyones I don't think:

 

WIP1188_zpsafhbpybv.jpg

 

scalpel for scoring litho & a hold & fold for bending the score and getting clean breaks

broaches for opening out holes to get clean fits

little brass vice for holding & working parts

small drill chuck and set of carbide drills 0.1mm to 1mm

files& sanding stick for finishing

jewelers awl for adding rivets etc

 

next up the primary tool for cutting & working parts - a dremel on a flexi drive with a 0.3 cutting abraded disc & an assortment of burrs

 

WIP1189_zpsnqxe4dwx.jpg

 

the only specialist tool that I have is a mini-lathe, but I don't really know how to use it, but have to make things from rod - almost like turning a chair leg, and occasionally for centre drilling a bar or rod,,

 

WIP1190_zps1jvq0cp2.jpg

 

the other thing is I do have access to a lot of our seconds, so litrtle PE bits that have failed quality control as the fret is bent or the parts are malformed - I break down a shape I need into how I might find either the shape or a shape within a shape in these sets..

 

WIP1191_zpsd31owytv.jpg

 

..lastly, and of huge value in the larger scales are a tub of watch bits, or 'sprinkles' as the seller refers to them - invaluable foe little spigots, cogs, etc..

 

WIP1192_zpssaf70ehi.jpg

 

.so nothing special, just patience and some experience - I go back to the adage that you only see the end product - there are lots of fails on the way :)

 

not an alien, just a modeller...

 

thanks for asking

 

Peter

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