CANicoll Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Super PE work. I'm always more than a little intimidated at the really small detail work (like the actuators you showed here), but the flap detail I bet will look amazing once painted and on the plane. The bomb rack is impressive too. Can't wait to see the next update! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Very nice work, Matt. Good tip with the two glass sheets, too! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogsATX Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 Upper brakes are mostly done. Still need to go back and add a few details to the internal structure and maybe beef up the main spars so the actuators hit better. But they fit well and look pretty. X15, Rdrunner, kvlazer22 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogsATX Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 And yes, even though it's not "functionally" accurate, I'm planning on posing the brakes extended in all their glory. Some years back I did an AccuMini Dauntless and only extended the lower brakes. Eh. It stole the build of a lot of potential visual impact. Not going to let all this PE work go to waste this time out. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 The PE work looks great, Matt! FYI - wiping a solder join with a damp cloth or sponge (while the parts are still hot) removes a lot of the soldering slag, leaving a nice clean joint. D Bellis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogsATX Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 The PE work looks great, Matt! FYI - wiping a solder join with a damp cloth or sponge (while the parts are still hot) removes a lot of the soldering slag, leaving a nice clean joint. Good to know! Though I've gone back to CA for these - worried about the heat doing bad things to the epoxy holding the main brake surfaces together... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogsATX Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 More PE. Light's at the end of the tunnel now, but I still have a ways to go. Got the lower brakes epoxied and stuffed under glass and bricks, and then moved on to dealing with this bit of fun. Removing the hump from the plastic. This is a PITA. I don't really see any better way around it. And it's not necessarily difficult. It's just...a PITA. So...lay out a sheet of sandpaper, and start dragging the flap across it over and over and over and over until the surrounding plastic is literally worn away. Then mild cleanup and glue it in place. Test-fit with the stock actuators. I'm still not sure if I want to take on the PE-and-rod replacement. tomv87, Rdrunner and Uncarina 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Good work Matt!....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 nice ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogsATX Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 Getting closer and closer to paint. First up, getting the Master .50 barrels sorted out. These will (sadly) be almost invisible, but I had them on hand and the muzzle (only part that will show) looks really nice. Also got the PE (mostly) done. Still have a bit more to do on that central brake housing. I have come to hate that thing - added weeks to the build with negligible visual impact. Definitely doesn't cross the Impact vs. Effort threshold in my book. But I love the brakes themselves. I had to prime some things last night, so while I had the airbrush out I decided to prime some more things. Oh, and I've installed the main gear legs since 1) the actuators for the center dive brake need some protection and 2) the legs and gearbays will be white anyway, so why not? Work will move on to some details and the IP coaming/gun cover tonight. After that gets sorted and the wingroots get some love, it should be time to hide this sucker away for paintwork. Rdrunner, Uncarina, Anthony in NZ and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogsATX Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 Getting there. Still have a few elements to sort out on the fuselage before I can get this puppy primed up. After that, it'll be going dark for the painting. Dive brakes were pre-primed with Gunze Mr. Metal Primer, which should, fingers crossed, keep any lifting to a minimum. Big bad Wolf, Rdrunner and tomv87 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Great progress Matt! That Gunze Mr Metal Primer is great stuff, I don't think you will have any lifting issues (famous last words lol). I have used it a lot and had no problems. Looking forward to seeing another one of your amazing paint jobs Cheers Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big bad Wolf Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Wonderfull work, Matt, thanks for sharing this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogsATX Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 I'm to that stage in the Dauntless where priming always seems just two or three days away, and then I always find more things that need attention. The latest example? The gun camera window on the port wing. Manufacturers seem to stuff these up more often than not, and Trumpeter's no exception here. Alignment is slightly off and the edges appear to be very slightly short shot at the join. Into this mess is supposed to go a small square of clear plastic. Yeah, no. Instead, after adding a bit of paint and a bit of detail (colored the back panel with a black sharpie, glued in a clear circle left over from my Sea King to represent a camera lens), I turned to Bondic. As a test, I first tried Bondic's filling abilities on an old Fw 190 I use as a paint mule. It "flows" like thick CA, but doesn't cure until you hit it with UV light, so it's plenty workable. And it can be sanded. It worked a treat on the 190, so on to the Dauntless! Cured perfectly clear! I see a lot of uses for this stuff in the future. Maybe not for main construction, but for filling in lenses, for securing canopies that need more hold than white glue (the stacked canopies of the Dauntless for example!)...lots of possibilities to explore. tomv87, Rdrunner and BiggTim 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Clunkmeister Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Matt, You're nailing this one to the wall. Awesome job! I love the tri color camo.. wow! I have the same kit in my stash, and it talks to me every now and then as well. But the Army version just talks louder, and some of the Aleutian birds even have great nose art as well. How'd you like the Eduard set? I've heard both good and bad on it. Looking forward to seeing this one done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now