Hardcore Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Barracuda inserts in the wings. The inserts seem to have shrunk slightly, or maybe i managed to squeeze the fuselage. In any case i used zap-a-gap, and baking soda, to cover the gap. I also had to glue several times because it is so easy to bend the wings and break the bonds. (You could have told me!) However, progress is made. One step at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 You'll get it done. Looking forward to seeing more.....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Having the CA break in starboard wing i decided to remove the resin and work to get a better fit. After some cutting and sanding it looked better. Still, i wasn't keen on using CA glue again. We have some epoxy and i tried that. It is for metallic but seems to work good enough. It also filled the wing root gap nicely. To make the resin part mate level with the wing i used a piece of plastic to lift one end. It can be seen in the photo. Alain Gadbois 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sax003 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) What does the baking soda do? Act as a filler, or a sort of concrete? Good work so far! Edited February 25, 2016 by sax003 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Better....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegallacci Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Baking soda works both as a bulk filler and flash cure for CA. But it can also be a nasty nightmare, as it will try to absorb moisture over time and weep salty ick unless it is thoroughly sealed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 A thin piece of plasticard works better IMHO. Cees Iain and Rick Griewski 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 You could always glue the wing root side first, then do the other side, probably with the help of a piece of plasticard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Baking soda works both as a bulk filler and flash cure for CA. But it can also be a nasty nightmare, as it will try to absorb moisture over time and weep salty ick unless it is thoroughly sealed.Thanks! Will prepare the surface well then. Primer and then maybe some varnish before paint. tomv87 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) Looks great so far! As recommended in your other thread, you might want to try a fresh bottle of Zap a Gap, and try cleaning the resin with something like Bleche wite (White wall tire cleaner used in movie props) I really like the way its shaping up so far, and I too use the filler method with CA. I stopped using talc for the very reasons Steve mentioned; if its not sealed it can weep a bit, especially if used or applied in humid conditions. If your so inclined, I switched awhile back to a product that the R/C community uses for filling as well; Micro-balloons. I got mine from a company called "Sig" but Im sure other companies make it too. \ Its effectively super micro small beads of glass that do not react the same way that talc does to humidity and other factors, but yet makes a great filler in anything from CA, to epoxy, to even white glue: Edited February 25, 2016 by Out2gtcha Iain and Hardcore 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) The Barracuda Oil cooler was not completely symmetric. No big deal to me, but i had to use epoxy glue to get it sit right and cover gaps. Edited February 26, 2016 by Hardcore KiwiZac 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Undercoat. It is like passing a milestone. Primer is Vallejo Panzer Grey Primer. Alain Gadbois, Out2gtcha, KUROK and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Looking good! Using a dark or black primer is really catching on these days. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Yeah, but to me the advantage is mainly to avoid light primer on a light surface. It will probably be a good sirface for the metallic later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 I intend to finish all my builds I have started threads about, and this one is currently active again. The build is an opportunity to test pre-shading so I may be a little carefree in execution. Ever since I paused the build i was not satisfied with the black Primer. I feared it would not be good for the colours making them unrealistically dark. With an Airbrush this is easy to fix and so I lightened it all up a little with some medium grey. Another first is to try use the right pressure and mixture. I would have done so long before but I suppose I didn't trust the manometer of my cheap tank. Maybe I owe the Chinese an apology. I have started applying Gunze Rlm 76 and 75 today (properly mixed 50/50 with rubbing alcohol). Next is the complementary late war green. Probably tomorrow. Funny thing is that I haven't decided on a Decal scheme yet. Sorry for the long delay, folks. ;-) LSP_Kevin and MikeMaben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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