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Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!


chuck540z3

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There are some guys here whose work is really difficult to comment on. Youre one of those

guys. The things you do take spectacular

to to an entirely new level...

 

Geoff

 

I feel that way with everybody's work on here

 

Cheers

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Thank you everyone for your kind comments.  I'm not sure how much progress I'll be making in the next few months now that summer is here and modeling for me is primarily a winter hobby, but I'll be sure to have something to post  now and then on a rainy day.  I used to stress out about making progress in my builds until I finally realized, "Hey, nobody cares, so why should you?".  :P

 

 

Hey Chuck, IF I may make a suggestion, the underside of the canopy frame might be worth you taking another look at. I agree with your take on the wheel wells, and I am doing as you do now and saving myself some work. The situation with that big F-15C canopy frame though is that it is very visible from the front in the raised position when looking at the cockpit becaus it opens so high above the cockpit. Tamiya left out the ejection cup, and all of the linkage and pressurization equipment located in the underside of that canopy Deck not to mention the lightened frame work, pressure seal, and locking hooks. My Eagle is displayed in the display case just under eye level, and if I would have left it plain it would look out of place with all of the other work I did. I have some line drawings of the deck if you change your mind and would like them. Just my 2 cents. Oh, the canopy hoop frame has much room for improvements as well with the compass, Mirrors, and IFF engagement light tree being in need of much help.

Looks great as always,

Gary

 

 

Thanks for the tips Gary.  I have the "catchers mitt" ejection cup from the Avionix cockpit, which surprisingly has no mention of it in the instructions, as well as lots of Eduard and Aires PE bits to make the underside of the canopy frame nice and busy.  As mentioned above, I plan on adding a number of scratch built parts like little camera thingies on the canopy and windscreen, but I'm not sure gutting the underside of the kit canopy frame will be necessary or worth the effort.  We'll see.  I also have lots of Archer decal rivets that I will be using all over the build, including the cockpit area, much as I did on my A-10C.  I think everything will come together fairly well, mostly because the kit parts are pretty good to begin with.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Guest Peterpools

Chuck

Holy Cow Batman, what a front office. Absolutely spectacular work. Like Wolf, the front office is my favorite portion of the build process only second to paint and decal work

Chuck you easily raised the bar ..

Keep 'em coming

Peter

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Hi Chuck.  I was on ARC the other day and I saw a thread pointing everyone this way to see your Eagle WIP.  I have finally had the chance to read the entire thread.  I can't say anything that hasn't already been said.  Your attention to detail and the dedication to your subject is second to none.  I'm very impressed with the level of your craftsmanship.  Keep it up.

 

I have a quick question for you.  What type, shape and size of rotary tool bit do you use to clean up the metal landing gear legs?  I have a set of SAC white metal gear for a Sabre project that I'd like to use instead of the kit plastic ones.

 

Again, wonderful work and I look forward to more magic.

 

Thanks Chuck.

 

Take care.

 

Mike

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Hi Mike!

 

Since we know each other a bit, I'll remove my politically correct filter and tell you that the SAC landing gear is crap, so don't use it. Metal gear should be much stronger than the plastic and most SAC gear is so soft, the benefits of stronger gear are outweighed by the extensive clean up required on this product. A better solution, if weak landing gear might be a problem is to insert a metal pin in a drilled hole in the kit parts, much as I did on my P-38L build if you can find it. If you still want real metal, G-Factor brass landing gear is quite good, assuming they make landing gear for your Sabre.

 

Now to answer your real question. I only use my Dremel tool on really big or tough imperfections with a burr like bit, while most of my metal landing gear cleanup is by using long thin sanding sticks, like those found from UMM and other suppliers. They come in a variety of grits, are flexible and they are thin enough to get into most tiny places. I also use just ordinary sandpaper a lot of the time, because the metal is usually soft enough to erode smoothly.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Chuck

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Chuck,

 

I appreciate brutal honesty and I respect your opinion on the matter.  Understood on both aspects in your reply.  The Kinetic / Italeri plastic gear are sturdy enough.  I was just thinking that the metal gear might be a little stronger.  You're right; the SAC gear would require a lot of clean up work and if there's no real difference in strength between them and the kit part, why bother.

 

Have a great weekend and thanks very much.

 

Mike

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PS: the part behind the seat - is it resin or you modified the standard part? The flat part with the little rhomboid textures. It looks very naturally in the cockpit thanks to the shapes - so this is the OOB part after a treatment with heat (i suppose) or is it a resin part? ...  :blink:

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