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Tamiya 1/48 P-47D Bubble Jug 1/23/16


Guest Peterpools

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I too have used the AKI Extreme metal paint line. I found it survives masking WAY better than some of the Alclad colors, but also is much different to shoot, as it is enamel instead of lacquer.  Again, Im aware not all Alclad is the same, but save the Chrome and polished Aluminum most all of the AKI Extreme metal paints shoot the same, and seem to be less sensitive to environmentals than Alclads are. 

Edited by Out2gtcha
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Guest Peterpools

Hi Brian and Jan
Over the past few years, I've spent a lot of time shooting Alclad and as of late, have worked with AK with no problems. Both have produced wonderful results with almost no problems st all. My only problems with Alclad have been with it's black base - especially it's drying time and more then once, it remained tacky for weeks on end. I completely gave up on Alclad's Black Base and started using Tamiya Gloss Black with excellent results. Alclad Metals are too thin to be sticky, tacky or crack; what cracks are the black base will it bleed right through the Alclad on top.
For starters, Alclad is mineral based and not a lacquer based paint. The prep work prior to the application of Alclad and AK are the key:
Once the model surface is polished and scratch free, it needs to be primed, which I always use Mig Polymer Gray Primer, an acrylic. I lay it down super smooth (thin light coats) and have never needed to polish it. Then the black base goes down. I now use AK or Tamiya  as my standard black base but on the Jug even used Alclad's Black Base as a small test: all worked flawlessly. The key is to keep the black base thin and lay it down in light coats - don't flood it on; let the layers build up until there is complete coverage and call it a day. Too thick a coat and they will remain tacky, except for Tamiya, which is a thicker paint, which I mostly use it on oleos, as the paint tends to builds up and will hide some details. Once the Black Base is dry, no more then over night, I shoot either Aclad or AK on the exact same way. I've never had a problem, never a crack or peel and mask over every color and shade with de- tacked Tamiya Tape with no problems. I've also never sealed either product, decal right on top with excellent  results. I've handled both, try to remember to wear cotton gloves and even if I don't, still no problems to report.
Each to his own with his choice for a NMF, with both being excellent.
The problem and key to the finish is the care taken with the application of the black base.
Peter

Edited by Peterpools
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Hi Peter

 

At the risk of contributing to this thread going WAAAYY out of context:  I am being incredibly unfair as I only mentioned the few "failures" - and never mentioned that I also have had excellent results with mentioned brand of paint. I think that when I say I am glad that there is an alternative now, I am really saying "...with CONSISTENTLY good results, assuming the builder did his due diligence" (and not having to fear that quality control over the chemical composition of the paint used may have been lacking).

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Guest Peterpools

Hi Jan

Agreed.I had a feeling there were a lot of successes in there as well. I guess the bottom line is to find a system that we feel comfortable with and allows for repeatable excellent results.

Peter

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Guest Peterpools

Hi Geoff

I've been building 48th scale aircraft as a "faster and non stress" project, as I work my way through 32nd scale builds. I made the mistake of tackling two 32nd scale kits simultaneously and for me it wasn't a good idea. My thought was to alternate between projects as I reach certain stages to keep the juices fresh and flowing but as it turned out, it had the complete opposite effect: I became bogged down, knowing there was a long way to go on each project and progress became slower and slower. In a past lifetime I was a 48th scale builder and my brother continues to work in 48th scale. Looking at the 48th scale kits today, I was amazed at the detail and quality of the kits. 

So where alternating between two 32nd scale kits failed for me in keeping the juices fresh and flowing, working on a 32nd and 48th scale kits together worked out perfectly. As I reached portions of the 32nd scale project that were very time consuming and needed a lot of time to complete before moving on, I would just switch gears and hop on the 48th scale project  - always seeing nice progress. So for me it was the perfect compliment. when I became frustrated or lost the mojo , I just headed over to my 48th scale project, changed gears and I was a happy camper. The juices were now back and after taking the 48th scale kit to the next level, I wouod head back to the 32nd scale project, full of vigor and ready to get going.

Long, winded story over - I just finished the Jug while working on both the Meteor and P-51. I used the Jug as a test bed for AK Extreme Metals and was blown away. I have the P-51 Hun Hunter waiting until the Meteor is done and the new companion 48th scale build while making nice progress on the Meteor: Eduard's F6F-3 Hellcat. Both are at the same stage and in the paint shop.

Peter

Edited by Peterpools
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