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Kitty Hawk Models OS2U Kingfisher *COMPLETE*


Out2gtcha

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks again guys!

 

 

 



those Q'tips look out of scale............LOL!!!!!!!!!!!  beautiful job.

 

 

Good thing you think so since its yours!   :lol:

 

 

Anywho, I finally got over my cold, and have completed the custom/reusable shipping container.

 

This is my standard commission build arrangement, using an 18" x 18" x 18" shipping box, that will hold most LSP save the B-25s He-219s, B-17s ect, ect, with a layer of packing peanuts around that, then a 20" x 20" x 20" on the outside to absorb shock. This is a bit big, labor intensive, and more expensive than some other methods, but when a VERY delicate model has to be shipped pretty much across the country in the hands of people who are NOT known for their gentle handling of packages, its the ONLY way to go IMHO.

 

My method so far has a 100% success rate with 0 broken models;not even so much as a single part (hopefully didnt jinx myself) even shipping all the way across the US. I usually use FedEx in these cases, and shipping a 20" x 20" x 20" box with the light weight they usually have, the cost is usually due to shear size alone; normally around $50 - $60 USD.

 

I start off with the 18" box, and hot glue some foam board in, to lock the fist two sets of boards in:

 

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I then slide in the first two boards that hold the wings:

 

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Then when those are generally in place under the wedge boards glued to the box, I slide in and lock in place the other two boards that cradle the fuselage:

 

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You end up with this (I have also simplified my numbering system, so Glen can get all boards back in, in the order they need to be in):

 

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Then I can drop in the OS2U:

 

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Next up are the wing lock plates  that keep everything from shifting in the least, without damaging anything or scratching anything up:

 

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MORE...................

 

 

 

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Now it was time to make up the wooden dowel pins + the twist on wooden caps that lock onto the dowel rod with finger pressure. I have made some thin plastic disks and glued one to each cap to help prevent the pins from pulling through the foam board, then glued in the dowel rods to one side of each down pin:

 

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The wing lock plates slide into position, followed by inserting the dowel pins, and their respective caps:

 

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:

 

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You end up with just about every end cradled in soft foam, and not able to move, or twist at all, keeping everything in line, and all the delicate bits protected and cradled:

 

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And because of the way the foam boards interlock with each other, as well as being locked into the box itself, there is 0 shifting of ANYTHING:

 

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I just left Glen a little reminder of which ones need to come out/get inserted in which order when he goes to remove the foam to collapse the box for storage:

 

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Im pushing this one out the door Monday, and will resume the T-28 shortly............

 

 

Cheers all!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Out2gtcha
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Guest Smitty44

Nice! Glad to see your shipping methods as well. I started doing some cutting and glueing on my Fish while Im finishing up my F-4G, and it's not a bad little kit. I used an xacto to cut of the wiring harness and the crankcase with pushrods and only had one accident. What I find interesting is that some people have said the locator pins don't fit in the holes, but if you give them a firm push they seem to lock the whole assembly right in place(not so easy to get apart if your test fitting) Perfect, no but I am glad I got my grimy little hands on one! Hardly ANY flash on my example either!

Edited by Smitty44
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Thanks guys!  Very kind of you to say, and thanks for stopping in on me................

 

As to the shipping box...........

 

My method is labor intensive, and costs roughly $50 USD (ish) to make, to include two large 20" x 30" foam boards, two large bags of Styrofoam peanuts, 1 18" cubed box, and 1 20" cubed box, a 1/4" dowel rod, and two bags of wooden end caps.  This cost DOES however  cover most all LSPs, as I have even made one for my Trumpeter SU-30 which is QUITE large, and only required a slightly larger starting box to cover its length. 

 

That being said, I have yet to have a model or model part arrive broken, when my shipments arrive to my customers.    I think it is WAY worth the cost to insure that the completed model arrives in the exact condition I sent it in..........I also have made these for my personal models to carry to and from shows and displays..............without the extra out-side box i use when I ship completed models.

This is the way the end result looks (although this is a stock footage pic, and my boxes are 18" cubed for the inside box and 20" cubed for the outside shipping box):

 

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The layer of Styrofoam peanuts surrounding the inner box provides a layer of shipping protection, for the model is for all intents and purposes attached to the inner box, and if it took a hard hit with the inner box alone, the model would stand a chance of really getting tweaked and highly damaged.

 

The double layer box method is similar to oil  tankers, so that if something does pierce the outside of the outside box, the penetration will likely not drastically (if at all) effect the inner box. 

 

I sent the OS2U off to Glen the day before yesterday on Monday, with 3 day shipping, so we shall see if my 100% sucsess rate of shipping in tact models remains INTACT!   :lol:

Edited by Out2gtcha
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Bulletproof :speak_cool:

 

 

OK, parcels I got from former Soviet states were always wrapped good enough to be nuke-resistant, but they tend to cram 3 kits together into a single kit box... :rofl:

 

Regards

- dutik

 

 

Indeed!  I would always prefer to ship a kit VS a completed model - Its always a lot more work. 

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Hi Brian.... How are you mate?....

 

Fantastic job as always on this....love this plane....

 

Im away of the bench because  there is no time for it...my daughter, now with 8 months ... you know...

 

 

 

Well... still here... will return asap...

 

cheers

 

shep

 

 

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