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Ok, taking a seat and :popcorn:


This is another one in my stash...




I figured it would be Hubert!  :lol:   Its a REALLY nice little kit if you havnt yet looked at it up close and detailed...............engine specifically!





Cool project! That printed frame is very interesting, seems to be a hint about what we could expect in the future of modelling.



Thanks Alex. I think it is a hint of the future, but the DPI/resolution will need to get a LOT more fine IMHO; pics upcoming.

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Man, you're such a pro ... the zero is barely gathering dust and you have a full thread cranked up on this one! Love watching your work Brian, I have been a big fan since I first saw your Su-27 - keen to see how you go on an air show finish, my next one is going to be one of those ...





Thanks for the high praise Jim!  I guess technically if you get paid your a "pro" but mostly, even when doing commissions, it still is like "bad" beer or "bad pizza..............its never really that bad and it never feels like a "job".


Im SO SO looking forward to going the opposite direction from the Rufe, and get a really fantastic smooth and glossy finish on this one..................we shall see!








That box looks to be about the same size as the box the Airshow Models (Fisher) Pitts comes in... I really like the idea of paint masks rather than decals, particularly on a complex scheme like this one.  Looking forward to following your build!






Thanks John. Yeah, I have the Bulldog Pitts, from AS models/FM&P, and it is around the same size, just a tad thinner.  All around great little kit. The paint masks that Icaerodesign uses(A plastic product, "Oracal"  or more specifically in this case "Oramask 810") I am exceptionally familiar with as it just also happens to be the same product that Ad Astra used to use, and the one that StenciPal currently uses. 

Its wonderfully resilient, re-usable, re-positionable and overall a joy to work with.  As weird as it sounds, I have no fear of the scheme or the masks, as I intend on using enamels and the paint particulates are generally so small, it makes for a much smoother overall paint finish IMHO.   Even though now I have finally figured out the secret to shooting acrylics!!!     :lol:

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That internal frame is all one piece?  That is so cool!  It's amazing what this technology can do now.  Can't wait to see you put this together, looks like a beautiful little kit





Matt  :frantic:


Thanks Matt. Yep. all a single solitary piece of plastic, light a s feather, and pretty resiliently strong as well.


However, (isn't there ALWAYS one of these?!??) I think the DPI/step resolution, whatever you want to call it will need to come a LONG way before it will be up to or closer to "IPMS" type standards.

What i mean is although its awesome to see, as you will eventually see, its quite stepped, where the 3D printer prints its sections, and its going to need a LOT more work, with sanding priming and filling to get it anywhere near "smooth".






Neat kit



Thanks Ron. It is in fact a really neat little kit.  Youll see in a sec with the engine pics; some of the best/smallest and most precise molding Ive seen in an kit.

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Well, I thought since Setal was sending me a 2nd Lycoming 6 cylinder engine, I thought it might be interesting to start there instead of the normal cockpit...............and ironically enough page 1 of the instructions starts off with the Lycoming engine.  Neat!


This thing is a REAL JEWEL.   As the man in black said, (Westley not johnny) "Ive never seen its equal".     Some of the parts are SO small, but yet have still been molded SO well, its really astounding.

First thing was to cut the engine block, oil pan w/intake distributor off their casting blocks.


This is a normal hazard of any resin work, and this kit is no different. You really do need to be careful here though, as the pan and block mating surfaces have to be EXACTLY flush to meet and sit right once together.

The molding on both parts is quite astounding:









Here is the starter wheel with the prop hub. As you can see, its QUITE a bit smaller than my thumbnail, but still, every single tooth is faithfully and crisply represented:








After I started assembling the engine, I really started getting the hankering back to do some more brass work. With the success of my last brass project (A6M2-N beaching trolley) I really had the utmost confidence I could make a really neat Lycoming engine stand to support and show off the 2nd "blinged out" Lycoming AEIO-580 6 cylinder engine.


I started off by buying the appropriate sized square brass tubing, and started in on my normal way; old school, with a block of wood, some thumbtacks, a drafting triangle, and an miniature architects square.


First up, was the upper frame section which is basically just a rectangle with a smaller rectangle seated on the top of it sideways:







After getting the first upright frame section completed, and smoothed out, I tacked it to the 2x4, and made sure it was 90deg before soldering the lower frame forks in place, and adding the first of 6 45 deg tube sections:











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Thanks Iain!    Im sure it was  a rush, as the latest incarnation of this thing has quite an astounding power to weight ratio.


Next up, I made sure the sides and bottom were still square, and then added the 2nd group of two 45deg supports. I utilized two hemostats to act as heatsinks :











While I was finishing up a section on the engine stand, I received a package, and as it turned out, it was the Aerobonus 8 drawer tool chest I ordered from UMM last week for around $7 USD, and just happened to come with the perfect sized caster wheels for the Lycoming stand:







Now I added the remaining set of two 45deg braces, and we have the bulk of the engine stand complete. It made for a really cool geodesic kind of shape IMHO:









After dry-fitting a couple of cylinders to the block, and the engine bearer to that, you can start to get a small idea of how Im intending on this eventually looking:





All for now lads!

Cheers, as I will be back on this one today/tonight as well.

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The engine is a good representation of what HIRES 3D printing can do (just like the engine I got printed for my Mystery Ship). The frame is apparently another technology (i.e. FDM) and yes, the layering is visible. I was wondering whether dipping it in a product like Mr Surfacer, or thickened Future, would allow to smooth the visible ribs of the framing.


If things come to worse, you at least have a good model to do the same with soldered brass rods, Brian ;) !


Love the engine stand. Keep it coming !



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