Jump to content

Recommended Posts

One trick I have heard of to deal with paint bleeding under masks is after masking, paint the same color that is being masked over.  Then paint the second color over it.  If bleeding occurs, it is the same paint color as what was under the mask.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks gents!

 

One trick I have heard of to deal with paint bleeding under masks is after masking, paint the same color that is being masked over. Then paint the second color over it. If bleeding occurs, it is the same paint color as what was under the mask.

 

Yep, that trick does work well. Ive also shot clear in the same manor before spraying the main color you want, and the clear does the same type job. All good theories, but I didnt put either of them into practice this time unfortunately!

 

 

 

 

 

Well, some good news and some bad............or as my normal modeling goes, two steps forward and one back. Now because I had to shoot the metallic blue next, I couldn't fully unmask the airframe, since the paint masks themselves needed to stay in place for the blue, and the rest of the white parts also needed to stay masked.

I took all the masking tape off except the paint masks themselves and whatever was covering the initial white parts.

 

The good news is that there is very little over-spray (just a scant couple of areas that weren't covered properly) and as far as I can tell, zero bleeding. Im sure part of that is due to the excellent way that the MRP paint lays down, and in this case, many fine coats that never had a chance to run or pool, which is kinda tough to do with MRP paint anyway.

 

Now the "one step back".........

 

I was super excited when removing all that masking....................until I got to the upper cowl. I found somehow, I had managed to set it down quite hard on the upper surface, and put a big ol dent in the pristine surface, right on top. Bummer, but I just had to suck it up and hold off on spraying the blue until I sand, smooth and repaint that area white.

 

Not too bad overall, but really am disappointed that I have to do more filling and now sanding and smoothing at this point, but Im happy there is not as much to fix color wise as I thought:

 

20180424_205051-XL.jpg

 

20180424_205042-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Uhhhh, and the problem area. It doesnt look that big, but its in a problematic area, and Im hoping it wont be that hard to fix:

 

20180424_205059-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Ill let this Mr Surfacer 1500 harden off for a couple days, then will sand, and smooth the surface, then hit it up again with some white for a base for the blue. Hopefully I can shoot some blue at some point this week or weekend, depending on how the fix goes.

 

Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Shawn. That's exactly what (keep at it) I intend on doing!

This will not stop me at this point when I'm so close to the cool parts. Hopefully I'll be able to limit the sanding damage on the cowl by masking around it, and hitting it with 600 grit on up.

 

Will hopefully have it fixed before the weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well that sucks Brian regarding the self inflicted dent! You go from euphoria to oh s**t in no time flat.

 

Good thing it's a small plane otherwise you'd be buying shares in masking tape manufacturers!

 

She's going' t' be a beauty.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautiful work Brian.  This is quite similar but more detailed than my AirShow Models Extra 300 and 300L ..particularly that Lycoming 540.  Being a wrench twister from away back,..the tube structure and the pitch and mixture controls are really oversized...But all of it looks great! 

 

I'm not building models any more due to loss of vision but I still enjoy trying to see work like yours.

 

Barney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use a hair dryer before taking the mask down.

 

Florin

 

 

Well that sucks Brian regarding the self inflicted dent! You go from euphoria to oh s**t in no time flat.

 

Good thing it's a small plane otherwise you'd be buying shares in masking tape manufacturers!

 

She's going' t' be a beauty.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

Now that is not even funny, cool looking scheme though Brian.

 

Regards. Andy

 

 

a man of your caliber will sort that no problem, shes looking ACE

 

 

Beautiful work Brian.  This is quite similar but more detailed than my AirShow Models Extra 300 and 300L ..particularly that Lycoming 540.  Being a wrench twister from away back,..the tube structure and the pitch and mixture controls are really oversized...But all of it looks great! 

 

I'm not building models any more due to loss of vision but I still enjoy trying to see work like yours.

 

Barney

 

 

 

Florin, Wolf, Andy, Mark and Barney, thanks very much for the ever so kind words.  I have been secretly working on the Extra for days and days now..........................JUST on the @#$*ing dent alone!

I have to say, Ive not encountered ANYTHING like this before, and I hope I never do again.  Its been KILLING me. Well and truly.............

 

Now I am at the point where I have filled and sanded, filled some more, sanded some more and each and every single time I did, I would end up punching through the ultra thin cowl. I used every conceivable type of filler Ive ever even contemplated using  too, including CA, milliput, MR Surfacer and the area is just SO thin that every time I touched it with a sanding pad, paper or other sanding tool, it just deformed and squished around.  Here is about attempt number 10 or so:

 

20180513_114659-XL.jpg

 

 

 

 

The area that happened to get dented in just so happened to be one of the thinnest areas on the entire model; SO thin in fact that just touching that area felt like pushing down on a spongy soft piece of resin flash that you may normally find inside of another part:

 

20180513_114705-XL.jpg

 

20180513_114710-XL.jpg

 

I'm afraid all my previous hard work on this model is for not. This is it for me on this model, it has officially defeated me.  :(  I'm not going to smash the little thing or anything but Im putting this one away on the SOD indefinitely. I just cant go on filling and sanding on this thing indefinitely, and its going to take WAY more work (cutting off the cowl, removing it and applying a stiffening plate with glue to the upper cowl to have some material to back it for sanding) than I am willing to do at  what was, the 11th hour of the build.

 

Sorry to disappoint folks, but its plain and simply not in me to continue.  Ive really not ever had a kit defeat me like this, but it is what it is, and Im going to move onto something simpler in IM that I can knock out for a modeling win and get some much needed MoJo back.

 

Apologies and cheers till I start the next adventure,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Peterpools

Hi Brian

Sometimes it’s better to walk away and stop frustrating yourself. It’s a hobby that you are suppose to enjoy and not wind up with a constant headache from banging your head against the wall. Just box up the kit, move on to a build that will go smoothly and be enjoyable. Some day when the mood strikes, you may want to open the box, look inside and close it up again

Peter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks gents
 
 

Have you considered gluing a piece of relatively thin plastic card over the area, then sanding it flush?

 
 
The problem is that there is really nothing to blend into...............the top of the cowl is SO thin that any attempt at blending any filler or card stock in just results in a bump in that area until I sand it down close to flush, then the thin resin takes over and deforms anytime I hit it with any sanding material.
And to compound that, I have now put so much primer on to try to blend that area, that now I have paint lips around the red I just painted and in some odd areas where there will be only white. Its a hell of a thing.
 
Honestly, the only real way I can see to fix this is to remove the cowl, and glue in a thick piece of styrene from the underside above the engine, and then flood it with epoxy or CA to enable me to actually sand things flush without the whole cowl distorting.

 

 

can you pour some liquid resin into the cowling to thicken that spot up from the inside?

 

 

I thought about that, and even poring some thinned epoxy in there, but there is virtually no room between the forward front engine cylinders and the cheek cowl openings, so it would be all over the visible engine cylinders before it would ever even get to the dent, which unfortunately is toward the side/back of the cowl, right above one of the most cramped areas in the engine compartment (right above where the cylinders rest. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's a good idea to walk away. Sounds superstitious but some projects I've had do get "possessed' and suck up all my good energy. My simple explanation (to me) is there is something I actually do not love about the project and work to advance it is simply low mojo and then low quality.  I once build a quarter scale horse and knight and it was really fun but the horse's anatomy was flawed, the rider sat on it funny then the suit of armor detail work just started to degrade and degrade. I had to toss pride aside and do the SOD thing. I never take success for granted. It's almost a gift.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×