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RichieB

1/32 Revell F-4E - What could possibly go wrong!

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Speaking as a former ground crew, most, if not all stenciling  on aircraft are for the benefit of the Aircrew. If the aircraft had to be "turned round" by them (only likely if they landed at a different, non type operating airbase). The information given on the stenciling would tell them the pressure/type of lubricant etc, needed to replenish the aircraft. Failing that they would ring the home base and ask the engineers advice on what size spanner/screwdriver was required and then ask the ground crew to bring said tools and while they are there "could you please turn the aircraft round as you will be far quicker and we can get back to base".

Why have a dog and bark yourself  :hmmm:

 

Great work btw.

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Oh common'... We can't have the "God's" showing up in the crew-room, buying the spark-chasers & grease-monkey's a beer with dirty hand's or do we...

 

Hmmm, something funny about that remark. Don't know if it's the combination of the "God's" with dirty hand's or the combination of the "God's" buying the techies a beer... :hmmm:

 

Kind Regards,

 

Rudy.

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Anyone know why the USAF decided to remove most of the stencils other than the sheer number of man hours required to put them on in the first place?

 

Quick question:

For weathering purposes I'm looking to use a Panel Line Wash and try out the oil dot technique with Mig Ammo Oilbrushers. Which of these should I do first?

I believe they are both enamel type products so I guess they may interfere without sealing coats.

I'm going to test it out on the drop tanks which look like this currently:

 

38765421445_6b5ea9c9ce_z.jpg

 

25790360148_50de3c0398_z.jpg

 

Any steers before I kick off would be greatly appreciated!

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Don't forget the raised longitudinal seam on the center line tank like the ones on the wing tanks!

Edited by Bruce

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the squadron walkaround #45 has some pictures you can make out the seam I'm referring to. 

also, there are 4 sway braces for the center line pylon that drop down from either side of the drop tank pylon, their location is outlined on the bottom of the kit.  There are two braces that drop down to stabilize the fins on the tank, the location of these are also outlined on the kit.

 

oQEa8f6.jpg

 

xDrdYDs.jpg

 

RCPyKWL.jpg

 

Bruce

Edited by Bruce

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Many thanks Bruce, just what I was looking for! Some scratch building required here methinks.

 

Are they rivets or bolts along the tank seamline?

Also, I presume the seam runs only on the left hand side of the tank?

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I believe the way the tank was made the center section was one piece of sheet metal that was rolled then the ends were bolted together and the cone ends were riveted on much like the wing tanks.  I'll see if I can find any close ups of the seam.

 

Bruce

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Back to the question of why stenciling was reduced on aircraft, as a retired Air Force pilot, it was my understanding that it was driven by costs. When an a/c went in for R&R and repaint, the time required to cut stencils and repaint them slowed the turnaround times and increased costs so only major items were repainted, i.e. grounding points, jack points, etc.

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Taking on Bruce's information I added a seam line and some pseudo bolts to the large fuel tank using plastic strip. Having got this far I thought I'd practise some weathering techniques on the fuel tanks before I hit the main event. Firstly the large centreline tank.

 

40273481174_1549dfd83f_z.jpg

 

As this tank sits under the fuselage it probably collects its fair share of muck, well that's my working assumption anyway!

I used a Mig Ammo panel line wash then added some random colour patches with oil dots blended in. I then added some fuel and dirt streaks and finally some pigments to show the more obvious dirt.

 

40940988092_87a1a3c32d_z.jpg

 

In addition, I've scratch built the braces that come down and sit on the front of the tank though you probably won't see much of them when they're fixed in place!

 

40090147815_caa2806f10.jpg

 

Happy so far, so on to the underwing tanks next for more of the same.

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Looks great so far, previously I've used spectacle arm screws for the sway bars they work really well.

 

Steve.

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