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Masking technique idea for canopies

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As for WD40, I think I would give it a try, I generally use acrylic paint for my models.

 

Here's an example of a set of canopies that I masked for painting using Bare Metal Foil, and then cleaned up with WD40:

 

file_zps28e7b84a.jpg

 

I really like the way they turned out.

 

Kev

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I've discovered a new technique I've used a couple of time with great success.

Get yourself some 1/64th chart/graph tape.  Outline the edge of the glass with it.  Lay Tamiya tape over the panel and burnish down over the chart tape.  Trim the Tamiya tape with a new #11 blade and peel off the excess. 

When I tried just using Tamiya tape direct I was having troubles finding the edge on softer details and it seems to trim much easier being held up off the surface of the canopy with the chart tape.

 

If you use yellow chart tape, it stands out real good behind the yellow Tamiya tape, and you can use it later as the yellow sealant you see on some canopies.

 

EDIT:  I just watched Paul's video on canopy masking.  I see one very big error I have been making.  I've been using the #11 blade and could not trim correctly because I could not see where I was going.  I'll have to get me some of the curved blades he demonstrated and use the push method.

I have tried the Bare-Metal Foil trick and had the issues of the wrong blade, and getting the foil back off the plastic.  I'll have to play around with this method some more now that I see proper techniques. 

Edited by ScottsGT

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Round 2:  

 

After doing the Future dip and letting it cure completely, I've done the Bare Metal Foil thing and Goo Gone works wonders removing any residue.

 

Lately I've been using Tamiya tape, using a narrow strip as Scott recommends, then filling in with wider tape.  Use a slightly dulled toothpick to burnish the edge of the tape.  Definitely need a sharp knife blade, and the rounded blade is a big help but I still use a #11 blade for most of my cutting tho.   

 

I've also had really good luck, after the future is dried, using a toothpick to remove an errant paint that might have seeped under, if you catch it before it is completely dry.

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I've used white glue for masking with a lot of success. Thin it with water and push it into all the corners with a toothpick. Let the glue dry, paint the frame, then after the paint has dried use the same toothpick to pull up the glue mask.

 

Works great, and is a lot simpler than any other method I've tried.

 

 

 

Shot

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