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Skyraider Production Memo - (Number 10 of 17)


VOLKS USA

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Production Memo #1
 
There has been very much demand for the SWS production memos from the Japanese SWS Blog to be translated into English! These production memos introduced the Cut Model Skyraider. The creator is Mr. TAKE-san. It's written as TAKE but pronounced Tah-Kay! This time in the production memo, the cool areas are shown from the left part.
 
* Engine cowl. Cockpit. Fuselage side. Wing machine gun parts. 
 
We'll show four cut parts of the model. 
 
Aside from just showing you how to do a cut model scale, we'll be introducing to you how to add more detail using the ZOUKEI-MURA option parts. Today you'll see the painted parts of the console and instrument panel. You'll see the beautifully molded areas once they're cleaned off.
 
If there are any protruding areas, you can use a modeling chisel to sand them off. If there are any indentations in the area, you can use putty.
Other auxiliary parts can be made brighter using lighter paints. 
 
â–¼1/32 US Navy Douglas A-1H Skyraider
 
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Production Memo #2
 
Skyraider Model Production Memo (Number 2)

Today's topic will be the fuselage area. Before we get to that, let's go check out the SWS Concept Note No. III! And it goes without saying that the important images have been put up!

It looks like there are tons of wires, but there are only 8 of them!
There are so many in the workings of the wires aren't there? Let's do our best to recreate this for our scale! The point of construction is to start from the A-4 partition wall and to end at A-38, which ends at the arresting gear. From start to finish decide where you would like to put 8 holes in. There will be 16 holes that need to be drilled. You can look at the picture and while doing so, you can carefully design the drilling position. 
A number 6 black wire is used for this. Look at the spacing between the wires which should be around 30cm for 8 wires. Tie the ends together and then finally glue it together with instant glue.

Drill a hole through A-4 to A-38 bulkhead using a 1mm drill which will allow the wire to pass through the bulkheads without having the need to open holes in the center and allows lightening the holes.

From the A-4 bulkhead to the A-3 frame, make sure to check each wire one by one on each side before continuing on. 4 wires on each left and right side.

While looking at the Concept Notes, you can check the holes and to see which ones pass and do not pass.

Make sure that the tension of the pin doesn't interfere with the partition wall. So how is this shot? It looks almost identical to the real thing doesn't it?

While pulling on the pin, make sure that it is secure by crushing the aluminum pipe. If the tension is ok, you can use glue on the ends to secure it in place.

â–¼Concept Note No. III US Navy A-1H Skyraider

http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/index.php…

‪#‎ZOUKEIMURA‬ ‪#‎Skyraider‬
 

 

Edited by VOLKS USA
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Skyraider Production Model Memo (Number 3)

We will now cut the fuselage side

Using a sign pen to make cut lines, use a motor tool to shave off and cute. Be careful when cutting and rotating because the shape of the plastic might warp and even melt.

Use the motor tool and chisel to make thin expressions on the fuselage part. 
On the cut fuselage part, we'll recreate the ribs. The plastic plates are made one by one. So what do you think? It's looking like the real thing already right?
Next is the engine and how to up its detail. We'll introduce the installation of the main wing.

 

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Skyraider Production Memo (Number 4)

 

Hi! How are you all doing? Take here and I'll be showing you the how to detail your engine up.

 

1. Before gluing the cylinder blocks, paint the flat parts silver. After removing the parting lines from the air intake. Paint the bottom part silver. I will ink the cooling cylinder fin at this point.

2. Here we cut the cylinder head that is protruded out with a cutter. Open up a hole with a plug cord at about 0.5mm with a drill. It will open up the front and rear cylinder.

3. I've created gear housing with the plug cord piping instead of the B-12 housing. The ring is cut off. This will be a little different than what the instruction manual says and we'll be modeling from the air intake. (This starts after the steps in page 15 have been completed) 
*If you would like to use the wiring of the etching parts as well, I think it'll work better if you change the order this way.

 

â–¼SWS No.3 1/32 US NAVY DOUGLAS A-1H SKYRAIDER
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/index.php…

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Skyraider Production Memo (#5)

 

This time we will be making and processing holes for the exhaust pipe.

*Giving the exhaust pipe more detail.

Drill the mouth part of the hole and process it to look like a pipe. 
The atmosphere will look even more realistic, so please let's try this out!

1. First, make a guide to open a hole on the top using 1 mm drill. Focus on the center and carefully open a hole. 
2. The made hole should be around 1.7 mm and any size around it is a-ok! Lightly drill the hole so you don't happen to tear it.

So how is it? It's looking pretty good right?

After cutting the runners of the exhaust pipe, it'll be pretty difficult to found out what part is what. Write down the numbers and clip them to the two parts you'll need to glue. You'll be able to quickly identify and conveniently assemble!

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Skyraider Production Memo (#6)

 

Hi everyone! How are you all doing?

Take here. This time we'll be continuing on the exhaust and air intake pipes.

1. Painting the exhaust and air intake pipes.

Using wood brown, tan, and black paint you can create a gradation to add a burned effect. Adding more flat base all around will turn it into a nice matte color! Paint the bottom a little unevenly so it looks more and more real. It's looking pretty good!

2. Application of the exhaust and air intake (page 15 of the manual)

Set up middle intake pipes (C-13) just as they were explained in the manual with 9 glued parts. Line up and stack the intake pipe and exhaust (C-18) around one block each so the angle of the middle pipes would be easier to decide.

3.Application of the exhaust and air intake complete!

The exhaust hole is open and it looks even more real now! What do you think?

How amazing the 1/32 scale is! It's so powerful! 
It's just fun to look at the engine by itself. 
Next time I'll be showing you the “wiring of the plug cordâ€!

Till next time we meet again! Adios!

 

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Skyraider Production Memo (#7)

 

How is everyone doing? Take here.

All right so last time we left off at the detailing of the engine.
This time I'll be introducing to you the plug cord.

â–  Additional Plug cord piping assembly

1. I've changed a bit of the diameter of the plug cord pipes by making them smaller. There isn't a perfect ring-shape for the pipe so while trying to look for it ….
“Vallejo color†cap is just the perfect size! ♪

With a diameter of 1.5mm, wrap the cap around the aluminum line. If you cut the lighter parts, it will turn into a neatly cut ring.

2. Make 36 tiny 0.5mm holes around the ring. It should be 0.3mm deep.
3. Right there using number 6 wire, with the cut plug cords glue and set them together.
4. In order to show the contrast of the black in the pushrod, I painted the number 6 wire a beige color….
Putting the cylinder in place, it looks like the color is softly ripping.

Ah geesh!

There has been so many accidents during the production process! 
(This happens to me often)
Well, once I recover from this, I bet this will make for an interesting story later on.

 

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Skyraider Production Memo (#8)

 

Continuing from yesterday.

The whole part is ripping so the base is painted with primer and we'll continue to paint the whole part green is a choice but… since the whole part is cleanly ripped, I'm going to go with the black wire instead.

1. First off, put cords in the already opened holes of the cylinder's plug 
2. Insert the earlier cylinder into the back and front,
3. When the aluminum line and no. 6 wire glued together, it'll come out very smoothly

4. The Wright R3350 Engine is finished! It's so cool!

This is the heart of this tough guy! 
A power comparable to a titan! “The Wright R3350 Engineâ€

The mold of the cylinder's cooling fin is of course very complex! The structure of the exhaust pipe is reproduced in very high detail. It looks so amazing it looks like it'll really shoot oil smoke at you!

Oh! Speaking of oil smoke, I just remembered something.
When trying to recreate the look of an oil stain, giving it a wet and dirty look is a definite must!

So how about it? 
We've completed up to the engine so far but our spirits are soaring! It's looking pretty good! 
At this rate I can't help but be so impatient every night and to hurry and assemble this!

All right, till next time we meet again!!
Adios!!

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Skyraider Production Model Memo (#9)

 

How are you doing? Take here.
Today I'll show you the cut part of the main wing!

1. The assembly steps are basically the same from page 17 to 19 of the instruction manual.

The application of the pylon hole can be put in many various places.
On the instruction manual, after assembling the parts that are written in “caution†we'll be opening a hole guide line. This is going to be a big deal, so please do not forget about it!

2. Disconnecting the machine gun!

The machine gun part of the inner and outer part of the wing have been cut. Cutting this part earlier will make the task at hand even easier!! (This is written in the instruction manual at page 19 – 20)

3. There will be masking tape remaining from the cuts of the main wing, so leave it disconnected for a bit. I realized when gluing the inner parts but I'm glad I cut the wing parts earlier! It makes my job much easier!!

The paint and assembly are pretty much done around the main wing, so I've cut the top of the left part.

 

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Skyraider Production Memo (#10)

 

Working with the inner surface of the wing

1. I cut the machine gun and the magazine so you'll be able to see it. Lightly sand it off from the back in order to make it look more real. The cartridge isn't shiny, but I decided to paint it to have more of a dull and smoky essence. I think that the cartridge I used before is normally shiny, but I wanted to play around with it a bit. What I used here is wood brown + olive drab in small amounts.

2. Before gluing this together, put masking tape behind the inside of the aircraft make sure that the paint does not go inside.

3. The outer wings, machine gun, and machine gun magazine have been cut. The inner wings have been taped with masking tape as well.

After this has been complete, the wings are OK!

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