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Hardcore

TDJftM: FINISHED!

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Right now this is just ordinary construction phase. Useful to you mainly to learn the nature of the trumpeter kit.

For the exhausts there was need for only a minimum of support. I took advantage of the fact that they can touch the fuselage when mounted (especially the port side). Not the most solid attachments but using liquid glue it was easy to do.

 

IMG_20150831_152451_zpsskie8z85.jpg

 

IMG_20150831_152834_zpswtec91ka.jpg

 

The mating surfaces where not perfectly even. I suppose they forgot to add the finishing touch. I used a sanding stick but would perhaps got a better result cutting off the locating pins and use a flat surface and grinding paper. Nvm.

When in doubt my method is to go slowly. That's why I in the last shot only have glued the topside of the nose, stopping at the cockpit.

 

 

IMG_20150831_205227_zpssxgkysmf.jpg

Edited by Hardcore

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Yesterday. A bit more careful glueing of the front pieces.

 

Notice the oil tank. The propeller will be glued firm to it and cannot rotate(!). Odd, but maybe a common Trumpeter design?

Anyway the tank help keeping everything in line, theoretically.

IMG_20150902_162309_zpsgovaogni.jpg

 

 

The side panel fit well. I used a paper strip to lift the MG up out if its groove in the cowl. Maybe that wasn't necessary.

Oh, the white thing in the hole for the compressor is the plasticard assembly of the right hand exhaust.

 

IMG_20150902_162219_zpsxjam60kz.jpg

Edited by Hardcore

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I can report I fell to a common trap when glueing together the fuselage.

Yep, it got too slim. I noticed this when figuring out what the problem was with the fit of the starboard engine cowling. The cause was the natural tendencies of the unsupported plastic fuselage, and that i glued the cockpit to both fuselage halves.

sigh. Easy to fix but the unnecessary work to make the cowling fit will leave marks. x-(

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Guest Martinnfb

Hi HC,

Martin has a new radiator housing for you. Trumpet's nose has a weird streched shape due the extended width of this part. All you need to do is to cut out the radiator cowl ring of the trumpeter's mold and replaced it with Hasegawa's piece,  Let me know if you want it.

Cheers

M.

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Thank you, that is kind. I will keep that in mind but basically I build this out of the box. I will spend more attention to the Revell kit which probably will appeal more to me in all ways. Or any Hase kit.

Regrettably Trumpeter seems to employ non-builders as evidenced by the peculiar mix of PE and plastic. It is cheap and looks like a messerschmitt. I give three out of five stars

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Ugh! When a kit is not shake and bake it takes forever to build and get to the priming stage. Also over time the finish tend to get worse with scratch and dents everywhere. It will be great when I can finally prime this one!

 

 

 

Today I installed the remaining "moving surfaces".

 

IMG_20150913_201218_zpsyltinqbp.jpg

 

IMG_20150913_201417_zpseqmkqmnx.jpg

 

Note that the fin lack any rivets and thus represents a wooden one, and the stabilisators are metal.

 

 

 

Regretably they are not very well made for other positions than the neutral.

When I dry fitted the flaps it showed I had to remove some plastics in order to lower the point where they attach to the wings.

IMG_20150913_151454_zpsu82t8v3d.jpg

 

Same with the elevators.

Here is photos from before and after surgery.

 

IMG_20150913_152056_zps9zvkxb8e.jpg

 

 

The flaps doesn't look too good after this but it will be hidden in the shadows under the wing.

IMG_20150913_201302_zpsaywoljjh.jpg

 

(Would you dare keep coarse paper like this close to your models :) ?)

IMG_20150913_150933_zpse1t8dlsb.jpg

 

I also worked on the PE for the cockpit. Interestingly there are TWO sets for the Galland Panzer. The unused part has a bigger clear part. New to me that the Germans did changes to this armour and I wonder were they got that information.

Oh, yes, the PE is not an option. There is no plastic so one must use the metal.  :mental:

I will go and get some black vallejo primer for that RLM 66 finish. Today I made do with a lighter one.

 

IMG_20150913_201207_zps8kcp9so1.jpg

 

 

 

Now I understand it was mistake on my part to not have studied other construction reviews of (earlier) Trumpeter Bf 109s.  

It appears my attempt to make sure the wings attach well to the fuselage also slightly changed the size of the cockpit, and as a consequence it is about 0.5 mm too wide now. 

 

This photo show there was no indication of this. It was only when I dry fitted the canopy that this showed up.

 

 

IMG_20150913_201432_zps66s0pcme.jpg

 

 

Annoying.

 

The best thing of this kit is the rubber wheels, and I may save them for a Hasegawa kit.

 

PS. Right I forgot to mention I removed the ribbing on elevators and ailerons. They were awful!

Edited by Hardcore

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Tonight i primed the whole thing. I suppose i should use a quality primer and not just white spray paint. Coverage is so so. The can is almost empty now, however, and for next project I will look for alternatives.

IMG_20150920_202505_zpsiji3oqn1.jpg

 

The wheels are from Hasegawas K-4. They will be black. A bit of artistic license (I LIKE shiny black!) The czech machines where after all put together from war time parts. I have not decided on the color of gear and doors yet.

Anyway it looks like the wheels will fit.

 

IMG_20150920_202455_zpsywbye7ie.jpg

 

The tail wheel present a problem. As can be seen it is shorter than the trumpeter original. I need to lengthen it somehow to strengthen it.

 

IMG_20150920_202626_zps6jxqfwcr.jpg

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So, paint. Taking advice from a post on Hyperscale (I think) i looked for a particular Ral color(i forgot which) Only producer of that in acrylic was Revell. Not a stranger to try something new i ordered a jar from an online seller in germany.

What I got was possibly the worst designed container for paint imagineable.

IMG_20150923_202704_zpskxv08qpq.jpg

There is nothing to keep the lid in place. Just pressing it in place doesn't work so well because this cause over pressure pushing back.

I will transfer the remaining paint to an eyedrop bottle.

The paint in it was actually creamy in consistency and need be diluted. Another problem is that there is a tendency for separation of colors that is hard to do something about. A gray-blue color want to float on top and you would have to stir constantly to get it to mix!

 

All the messy paint, change of needle, and no wonder I also got a sticky trigger on my AB and had to cut yesterdays session short...

IMG_20150923_202610_zpscibv2yc5.jpg

 

 

Got the rest of the ground covered today, so to speak. I forgot to dust off the model and will have to correct that. Post shading should cover the traces of any correction work.

 

 

IMG_20150924_211337_zpsimyarcah.jpg

Edited by Hardcore

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Last time i sat at the workbench i test fitted the resin spinner. Natural thing to do you know, even if it will be attached last.

Of course it didn't fit.

It is made by Roy for the Revell kit and is about 1mm to wide. This is no disaster but the original is so bad that i have to figure out a solution.

I'll post a photo later in the week.

 

Preparing the surface for decals i polished it a bit.

IMG_20151007_191346_zpssfhiaqpp.jpg

It appears i still need to buy a fan spray...

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After one or two more coats of future it is time for decals. They are made by sky's decals and cost a small fortune. For avia machines in Israel they seem to be the only producer so i had no alternatives.   

I am not too pleased by the setting of the tail band, I may splash more alcohol on it tomorrow. Otherwise the decals leave the backing paper after just a few second in water, and the opacity is great!

 

IMG_20151015_213231_zpsqmglcewa.jpg

 

I am really impressed by the picture quality. It is a Google Nexus 5 not a camera!

Edited by Hardcore

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Guest Martinnfb

Very nice . The shiny black is actually correct, you can call it RML 66 :). And Roy's spinner will fit after you send down the nose  of the model, well just a bit, it is long anyways. If that's out of the option I can send you MDC already completed with blades.

Cheers

Martin

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Guest Martinnfb

Not exactly cut it ,to sand it down 1.5 millimetre  on a flat surface does the trick .

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Bravely doing nose surgery today!

IMG_20151018_184651_zpskcnikyat.jpg

 

IMG_20151018_195114_zps4eossmrn.jpg

 

Using some Tamiya tape to mark the area to be removed. I was not overly anal about the precision in the placement. I figured it would not make the propeller sit bad.

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