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A Corsair for Bob


David Hansen

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D'OH!!

 

I THOUGHT i saw one in the kit but you're right; i don't recall it being called out. I'll have to look for it now. Worried that i already chucked that sprue.

 

Feeling really bugged right now....

 

-d-

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If you tossed it I'm sure there are lots of spares out there not being used. Should be a quick and easy upgrade, just pre-paint and tack on with white glue. :)

 

Allan

Yes it looks like a good fitting part and Elmers should make quick work of it. Just need to clean it up and paint it. But it'll definitely go on the model.

 

Weathering the Left hand side comes next, now that i replaced the decals i accidentally ripped off.

 

-d-

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I discovered something the other night which i think is important to pass on.

 

As you know, i'm a big cheerleader for Tamiya White Surface Primer, out of the square bottle, and thinned with Tamiya or Mr Color thinner.

 

This all started wiht the national insignias which i was painting on. I sprayed on White Surface primer where the white stars would go, and then applied the Montex Mask stars, and then just sorta forgot about things.

 

When i masked off and applied the insignia blue surrounds, i ran into some difficulty.

 

One of the things i overlooked is there is a "filler" built into this paint and it results in a slightly rough surface when the paint goes on. The little "blobs" of filler don't seem like much on a flat finished model, but jump out at you like a sore thumb if gloss paint goes over them. If you apply dark blue over the primer, then discover a  blob and then try to sand it out, the blob comes off immediately, exposing the white paint underneath. Insignia blue, just due to the thin characteristics, doesn't cover over white effectively until you build up a LOT of coverage. I wound up wet sanding down the insignias to make em smooth, then re-masked and re-shot the blue on last nite.

 

What does this all mean?

 

If you use Tamiya White Surface primer on the undersides of your USN subject matter (which i STILL recommend), carefully wet sand the primer with 2000 and higher grit sandpaper anywhere you intend to apply a dark glossy colour (like insignia blue). In other words, don't make the same mistakes i did.

 

On a GSB subject this is only relevant for the white stars in the National insignia. But i still think its important enough to mention.

 

-d-

One new discovery i made since this last posting is, the filler seems to precipitate out of solution rather quickly. You need to make sure you stir up the contents in the bottle before you decant it (shaking it doesn't quite seem to do the job alone), and then stir/ agitate it periodically in the colour cup while spraying. Depends on the size of the part, of course....

 

-d-

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Just got an email from Bob. Apparently the Skipper of ENTERPRISE did not approve of the VF (N)-101 decal on the Corsairs, so they were not permitted on the aircraft.

 

So..... One less thing to worry about.

 

Makes sense. I get the feeling there was a lot of prejudice against the Night Fighting squadron aboard the Big "E" anyway. INTREPID's Skipper seemed much more open minded.

 

-d-

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  • 1 month later...

And now, an update....

 

Weathering is underway on the left hand side of the F4U-2. My new job takes me away from home for 11 days at a stretch, so i cannot work on the model every day, but i do make a little bit of progress every day that i'm in town.

 

Its been very hot here in Portland of late. Again. Over 100 degrees.

 

A weird thing happened today. When i brought the model home from a friends house, i noticed what appeared to be a wet spot on the very front end of the radome. Last time i checked in, the radome had been glossed, primed, painted, painted again, wet sanded and another clear coat added.

 

When i wiped away the wet spot, it came off, but so did all of the paint, right down to the resin.

 

What it looks like is after almost one year since date of manufacture, the resin hasn't really cured completely, and it somehow leeches thru the Future clear coat. Suffice to say, its a freak occurrence.  Its too late to remove the radome from the wing and start over.

 

Hopefully i will be the first and the last to suffer this problem. Its not a setback, but its a hell of an annoyance. I've been working with Harold of AMS resin, and his AIA radome for the Tamiya F4U Birdcage is a massive improvement.

 

I hope to post some more pictures, soon.

 

david

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David, what make is the dome ? The reason I ask is some have had probs with Lone Star ones being un cured it the center of the dome, right where the pour stub was. I have a first copy of Harolds and it is good , to say the least.....Harv

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  • 3 weeks later...

And now, a status update.

 

Bu Aer 02710 is nearly finished.

 

At present, i am tweaking the antenna wire installation on the rudder. I may have made the rubber tensioner part too short; Might replace it.

 

It might not seem obvious, but modifying the rudder locator tab and cutting down the torque tube to facilitate installation at the end of construction makes it much easier to engineer and install the antenna attachments on the rudder post.

 

Harold is working on an improved iteration of flame-dampening exhaust stacks. I saw an intermediate example, and i'd like to wait and see how his finalized example looks.

 

The Radar Altimeter antennae, whip aerial and transponder antenna are installed. The brass pitot tube has been painted and test fitted.

 

All else that remains really is rigging the antenna wire and adding the rear view mirror in the canopy. My near vision was failing me a bit, so i went to the optometrist today for a check up and new eyeglasses.

 

I might get some pictures taken today or tomorrow.

 

-d-

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David, if I feel up to it, I might get pics posted of the fishtail flame dampers and scope I recieved from Harold. Took a quick look tonight and look great.......Harv

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