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A Corsair for Bob


David Hansen

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  • 3 weeks later...

Minor update: The deck has been glued to a piece of 1/2" plywood. I marked out the area that i need and the original 22" X 22 1/2" size is gonna be cut down to about 16" square.  Waiting on the base/ deck to be cut.

 

-d-

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Harv, i will post some pictures of it in bare form once its been cut to shape. I may have glued the planks together out of sequence, though i did follow the instructions. Need to follow up with Nautilus models on that.

 

Deck was SUPPOSED to be cut by now but......

 

-d-

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Update: Deck is now cut. 16" square. Have to wait til i return from my deployment, before i can resume work on it. Sigh.....

 

Next step will be choosing an appropriate edging material; i want the acrylic display case to sit around the edges of the deck; not on top of it. Then will go to Michael's and get some felt for a backing. Then I'll spray adhesive it onto the back of the base.

 

As Rihana would say, "It's all about the Base"....

 

-d-

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Folks.

 

And, now a long awaited update. Special thanks go out to friend, fellow model builder, and extremely cheap person Terry Schuler, who took my deck to a friends house and did a BRILLIANT job at truing in up and cutting it down to a much more easily manageable 16 X 16" square.

 

And then i felt something. Something i Haven't felt since...

 

D1116543-C28B-4607-8FBB-2D4EE76C13FB_zps

 

Crafty  supplies  found at your friendly neighbourhood Michaels. a 36" X 36" pack of green felt and a can of Krylon spray adhesive.

 

0CF487B5-A02B-4DE4-8E57-E779A8030C58_zps

1A3283BE-A86E-4DAC-BBD1-5294FA24E0DC_zps

 

I rough cut it to shape first. I have enough felt left over to make Kermit the Frog's Evil Twin...

This is the bottom surface after the wood had been sprayed and then "plopped" down on the felt which was done on my steel breakfast table.

8990CD95-D770-428C-A6D3-F33AE8F74B44_zps

 

And here it is after its been cut. Felt is actually a real ***** to cut cleanly. My work mat now looks like it has grass growing up thru the cracks.

8BA71E4F-2BBD-488F-9689-56950AC34D24_zps

 

2A016D38-EFAE-45AF-BCF9-10E1853F9CFC_zps

 

Next came the paint. Craig Pierce, author of the AMM article used craft paints that he got at a craft store, and mixed them to approximate intermediate blue. I took a look at the craft paint selections, said "Meh." and went home. I mixed up my first attempt at Navy 21 Deck Blue stain by mixing mostly Tamiya XF-17 Intermediate Blue with some XF-66, in order to kill the blueness a little bit. I thinned the paint with Tamiya Lacquer thinner, which seems to have completely avoided any potential problems with warping.

CFBD7C26-F06A-4935-A491-55B8AA08CBAF_zps

 

It takes a LOT of paint to cover a deck this big. Having it done, i feel its a little bit dark, so tomorrow i'm gonna add some white to the deck blue and go over the deck again.

BE5D0CD8-5DEB-41D0-99C1-9DF5DB51B5B7_zps

 

Corsair added for dramatic effect. Waiting on some new flame dampening exhausts.

92598680-1D8F-4CBE-B6CB-F1862BDFBFFC_zps

 

To be continued.....

 

d-bot

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And now, another update.

 

Mask mask mask mask..... paint.

Here we see the obligatory image of  how skillfully (LOL) i have masked the deck...

1081986F-CD44-43EF-B11B-CF5A32E3C1C7_zps

 

Here we can see that i can actually keep control of an airbrush for limited periods of time....

498C31BB-5EF1-48FE-A783-DC029F1F60CC_zps

 

I did the tie down cleats with the original blue-gray deck colour, but i added some insignia blue (i'd mixed that up back when i painted on the insignias; now i got a whole bottle of the stuff) to improve the contrast. I tried adding in Future to impart some gloss but it didn't seem to work. So, i went back and blasted Future over the deck cleats so they appear glossy, as seen here.

7677F194-271B-45FE-8D51-9FEB1748769E_zps

 

7C936703-5BFC-44E5-A6CB-A1EAAB7550A0_zps

 

Next up are the "Foul Lines". I looked at several photos of ENTERPRISE  and they seemed to contrast with the deck pretty good, at least when new. I originally tried to do these with XF-66, but i didn't get the contrast i was looking for.

Here is where screwing up the spacing between the rows of deck cleats really shows. The Foul lines are by my estimate, 6 planks wide, and painted between alternating rows of deck cleats. They shouldn't be on the cleats themselves actually. Anyway the proportions and spacing of the stripes is correct, even if the deck cleat rows are not. I added flat white to the gray i had mixed up to get a better, but not too stark contrast between the Foul Lines and the deck.

 

E72F86C9-A6E6-4E1B-9D1B-99FA6EA1CF7F_zps

1A60C292-2A5B-4223-926F-3995D9F5AA88_zps

 

And with that.... It's off to the Pub.

 

Last nite, i went over the deck with 2 passes of a wash of Grumbacher Payne's Gray watercolor. I was worried that i'd have problems with the wood warping or lifting, but as of last nite, so far, so good.

 

Here is a closeup of the deck with the wash applied. This is only the first iteration; then next iteration today will be a low level, high speed pass with Raw Umber.

C072D9FE-A455-4182-9637-5373CE7A6304_zps

 

That's all i got for now. Hope you likee.

 

d-smack

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Hi Alan,

 

i've pushed the weathering of the deck as far as i dare. This morning, i added some fuel and oil spills to the deck and now i regret doing so. Fortunately i only did a few and i think the model will cover them up for the most part.

 

67EE9F2D-DF47-4044-921C-7D4D564DE162_zps

 

97F12D16-458A-4F67-A8A9-7C5206B9C65E_zps

 

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B027A6E4-87BD-4CE2-B4CC-2145343AD4A1_zps

 

Next step is to put a frame around the base, which will serve as a positive locator for the display case....

 

-d-

Edited by David Hansen
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