AFV Club: OH-58D Kiowa Warrior 1:35 scale

[Elboogie]

you can shape some sheet plastic that is stacked together to get the height then sand it to shape and then make the cutouts on the upper dash and fit them to that. one thing you can do is make the shape of the piece on some thin sheet then use a ballpoint pen to make the indention's into the plastic and then you have a better looking lower panel.  Just some thoughts

 

I will try that Erick, thanks for ths suggestion.

I never would have thought about that.

 

Richard

[Elboogie]

So the next step is to glue the parts that will go into the cockpit.

Now while I was dry fitting the seats together I ran into something a little strange.

In the picture it will show underneath the base of the seat to show where the hole is to attach the seat to the base.

 

 

 

Now when I put the base of the seat to the base of the cockpit, is the seat suppose to be canted?

And it is canted because of the lines that you can see on the seat and also the base where it is suppose to be attached.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Richard

 

 

 

 

 

[Elboogie]

I got the answer I was looking on the seat angle.

 

So I started messing with my EZ wire for the first time.  Excellent products for adding in small wires without looking for the right gauge of wire.

Plus, in my opinion, they look like small wires when they are bunched together plus they are already white.  But they can be a pain when you start working with the "fine" thread.

Because they stretch, it took me a little bit of time to get all 7 lines of thread together....lol

 

 

Now the EZ wire in the picture is not glued and the attachments (black) in the picture is probably not what I will use in the final setting.

I just wanted to see how the wires would look.  I like it.

 

 

 

 

I should have done the wires that go from the main IP on my black hawk this way.  I will keep that in mind when I do my MH-60s build.

 

 

 

Richard

 

 

[Elboogie]

CABS

(I think that what the airbag system is called on the glare shield.)

 

So I decided that if I want to build a modern Kiowa, I would have to install the air bags on the glare shield.

 

First I started my filing off the area on the glare shield where I wanted the air bags to go:

 

 

 

 

Then I added some styrene and glued them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I filed them to the shape that I was trying to reproduce.  It still needs a little work but I don't think I did bad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also added some very small strips of styrene on the outside of the airbag to complete them .

Looking at the pictures, I still have some work to do on the airbags.

Tomorrow I will try the Archer rivets that I got for the first time to replace the details that I removed from the glare shield.  

 

 

 

Richard

Edited June 4, 2015 by Elboogie

[Out2gtcha]

Great work so far Richard!   I like all the additions you have chosen, as Im not a huge helo guy, but have always like the Kiowa.  Id definitely be using the Zacto stuff too................Chris's stuff is TOP NOTCH.

 

 

 

I got the answer I was looking on the seat angle.

 

So I started messing with my EZ wire for the first time.  Excellent products for adding in small wires without looking for the right gauge of wire.

Plus, in my opinion, they look like small wires when they are bunched together plus they are already white.  But they can be a pain when you start working with the "fine" thread.

Because they stretch, it took me a little bit of time to get all 7 lines of thread together....lol

 

 

Now the EZ wire in the picture is not glued and the attachments (black) in the picture is probably not what I will use in the final setting.

I just wanted to see how the wires would look.  I like it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A quick tip on the EZ-Line...........................if you put the bundles together and find that you have some, or an individual "wire" that stick out unrealistically of the wire bundle, try getting some MS "foil glue".   Take a smaller paint brush and brush some on the wire bundle, and let it set to dry (usually 5 - 30 min depending on the overall amount of it you have put on).

 

After the MS foil glue is set (its designed to dry FIRST then be applied, as with foil applications) it should be totally clear.................. take a set of tweezers and dip them in a small amount of water so they dont stick to the wire bundle, then give the bundle a gentle squeeze, and this will keep the wire bundle together in a more realistic tight looking loom.

[Elboogie]

Great work so far Richard!   I like all the additions you have chosen, as Im not a huge helo guy, but have always like the Kiowa.  Id definitely be using the Zacto stuff too................Chris's stuff is TOP NOTCH.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A quick tip on the EZ-Line...........................if you put the bundles together and find that you have some, or an individual "wire" that stick out unrealistically of the wire bundle, try getting some MS "foil glue".   Take a smaller paint brush and brush some on the wire bundle, and let it set to dry (usually 5 - 30 min depending on the overall amount of it you have put on).

 

After the MS foil glue is set (its designed to dry FIRST then be applied, as with foil applications) it should be totally clear.................. take a set of tweezers and dip them in a small amount of water so they dont stick to the wire bundle, then give the bundle a gentle squeeze, and this will keep the wire bundle together in a more realistic tight looking loom.

 

Thanks Brian for the tip.  I will use that tip when I get my wires together for the main IP section.

 

Richard

[Elboogie]

Today I tried Archer rivets for the first time.

I also have the set that Micro-Mark sells.  You get two full sheets when you order the Micro-Mark rivets so I am using the Micro-Mark set when I do my

MH-60s build.  I have always wanted to try them but I didn't have the gumption to do so.

 

So I cut the film very close to the rivets like I heard a lot of people that have used this product say that I should do.

 

 

 

 

Then I dipped them in water (and from what I can see, they don't have to be submerged in water for a long time).

And then I applied them to the glare shield where I filed away the rivets putting in my air bags.

 

 

 

 

Now don't laugh because I tried to put them in a row but it didn't come acroos that way.....lol

When the rivets dry I will fix the problem with the 3 rivets on the right side because that will bother me thru my build.

 

 

Richard

 

[Elboogie]

Tonight I was working on the middle console wall section.

The first thing that you will notice is that I added some extra card to the wall section.

The reason why is because I wanted my wires to go up to the extra wall section that I put in.

I'll explain that later....lol

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The second thing, which is a first for me, I painted the wall before I glued it to the cockpit.  

If I glued it to the cockpit and then painted the side walls, it would be nearly impossible to attach the wires to the main IP, as far as I am concerned.....lol

Second thing is, I am using EZ line and that is already painted white.  

 

So I completed the side walls and then put some small styrene boxes to the walls and painted them flat black to break up the Nato Black that I painted the wall with.  

Then I put attachments on them using small hex rod card and painted them clear red and clear blue.

And then I attached placards on the small boxes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow comes the wiring, and after the wiring then I will add some weathering.

 

The next thing that I did was I looked at a ref picture and I decided that I would model the Kiowa without doors.

A question that I do have.  On a lot of modern Kiowas that I have seen, when they have the doors removed,  they have armor plates (or shields) in their place.

I see them on a lot of models that I have seen on the Kiowas, and they are not in the kit.

 

I take it that we have to scratch build the armor plates to protect the pilots?

 

 

 

 

A little more work on the cockpit area.  Being that I want to model the Kiowa without doors, everyone can see inside.

So when looking at a picture, I noticed that part B8 and B9 have raised rivets on them and they are out in the open for everyone to see.

 

 

 

First thing that I did with those parts, after gluing them to the model, they left large gaps.

 

 

 

FIxed them:

 

 

 

 

 

 

So I broke out the rivets and started riveting on those parts and I think they look good.  Now I could not match the rivets in the picture that you are about to see but I don't think I did too bad.

 

 

Ref. Picture

 

 

 

 

 

Model:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More tomorrow:

 

 

Richard

 

 

 

 

 

[Elboogie]

Not sure I am happy with the seats:

 

 

 

 

But looking at a modern Kiowas seats, I don't know if I have the skills to reproduce this:

 

 

 

 

Maybe I will try to mess with milliput and try to recreate the seats, but I have never done so before.

But you will never know unless you try right?

 

 

Richard

[Out2gtcha]

Looks great!   Id go for the milliput...............give it a shot................the worst that can happen is you dont like it and remove it to use something else.

[Hawkwrench]

Looking good so far! Where did you get your placards from?

Testors makes a flocking material you sprinkle onto your part, but I don't remember how it gets attached to the part.

Maybe you should look it up and give it a try.

By the way, good idea on the EZ wire. I'm gonna use it on my MH-60M for the cockpit and cabin roof. Thanks!

Clear up right!

Tim

Edited June 5, 2015 by Hawkwrench

[Vandy 1 VX 4]

there's also in Oliver's mh-60s build a link for the flocking materialI he used I posted it. Use white glue to attach the flocking material It comes in multiple colors to

[Elboogie]

Looks great!   Id go for the milliput...............give it a shot................the worst that can happen is you dont like it and remove it to use something else.

 

I think I will try the milliput....but I am hoping that I can make the seats to scale and don't make them too big, that's my worst fear.

But as you say, I will try it and if it doesn't work, I can simply remove it.  Thanks for the heads up Brian.

[Elboogie]

Looking good so far! Where did you get your placards from?

Testors makes a flocking material you sprinkle onto your part, but I don't remember how it gets attached to the part.

Maybe you should look it up and give it a try.

By the way, good idea on the EZ wire. I'm gonna use it on my MH-60M for the cockpit and cabin roof. Thanks!

Clear up right!

Tim

 

Hey Tim,

the placards aren't actually placards.  I don't have any extra placards but I plan on getting some, I like the way that Oliver uses placards inside of his MH-60S build.

They are decals that I got from the Afterburner decals for my F-16 in Alaskan camouflage about 5 years ago.  They are just white writing on black background.  But they look the part I think.

The EZ wire is a great product, but because EZ line can be streched, they are a pain to get them to stay together when you have a couple of strands of them......lol

 

 

Richard

[Elboogie]

So I was looking at another picture of a modern Kiowa, I saw something on the glare shield that I have to reproduce to make the 

glare shield look more like a modern Kiowa.  

 

 

 

 

And in my haste to try the Archer rivets, I put them on incorrectly, this gives me the perfect time to replace them.

 

OK so I put tape so I won't file away all the details and continued filing away all of the indents at the top of the glare shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I applied a strip of card to the area where I filed away the indents about 1 cm wide.  

And even though I looked at the ref picture, I knew that I wasn't able to create that handle in the middle, I just put a little piece of card to represent the handle (at least that what it looks like to me, but if I am wrong, please correct me.)  And then I cut the bolts and placed them on the card.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now the bolts that I put on top of the card, I will have to file them down a bit.

And then I replaced the raised rivets that I took off filing that area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, I am not a great scratch builder and I hope that I am creating a accurate Kiowa.  I am just trying to create what I see in the pictures.

More later.

 

 

Richard