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Mals Way, Corsair, USS Bunker Hill, Carrier Deck, Part II.


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Allright ......ive drilled holes on the cowling frame the attach holes for the cowling, masked all of, then Tamiya gloss black, after that Alclad, then used maskol to cover each hole, then YZC and Salmon Primer.....Yea it works for me...yes it will be light grey inside the cowling, nothing i wont miss later, all is just dryfitted.....

 

 

Oh yes it will look cool when done, washes will be applied on the cowling flaps, and the mounting holes for them panels will get washes in them......

 

IMG_1623_zpsmquqjcfz.jpg

 

 

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IMG_1625_zpslf7n06yg.jpg

 

/Mal

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Thanks Maru and Peter.

 

Allrigt Little done today...weathering proces started....im not done yet, need some rest, to easy to overdo thees things..ive used Yamiya Panel accent wash and grey/White/yellowish weathering makeup kit.... first round is done....just few touch ups, later graphite from a pen, ill run it over the springs, and some ligh light greyish dust pigment from top to down...but now let it rest and look with fresh Eyes, subtle is the key...

 

 

2n9aw07.jpg

 

/Mal

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Hi Mal;

 

This is my first post on LSP (been lurking for a couple months...)

 

First; let me tell you that you're an amazing builder, painter! 

 

I have been following your build for a couple of months (FW-190, Zero and this Corsair) and i have learned much from them.  I really admire your skill

 

I have some questions about Tamiya paint : What ratio paint / thinner and what pressure do you use to achieve that perfect finish? Do you always use the same ratio / pressure and last do you use primers?

 

I sure will continue to follow your build on LSP

 

Stephane 

 

edit: I just re read your thread... and found that you use 1:3 ratio for paint... ;)

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Thanks all for them kind Words, im glad you all like it.

 

@S.Pelletier.

My mix ratio with Tamiya is 30-35% paint and 70-65% isoprop alchohol, then a 3-5 big drops Tamiya retarder from a brush. coats that goes on wet without rinning or pooling up,

since when it dries it is very thin, and if any fiber or particle landed on the paint, it is easily removed with a soft makeup brush Before applying next coat, note i use optivisor when im doing Airbrush work so i can spot any defects real early...alot of coats needed to cover due the ratio i use, but it got benefit as Control over the paint and less risk of "to much" paint that covers crisp Surface details.

 

About primers..well that depends on the kit itself if needed. if a shortrun kit or others such as Hasegawes FW190/Me109 and others similar kits, where there been putty, redones, toolwork on the Surface, then i go for real primer paint, i use nowdays Tamiya Rattlecan primer...to detect Surface defects and errors.

If doing a kit like this that istelf is a perfect fit, very Little with putty or surfacer then no need for real primer in my opinion, so o do a paint coat that acts like a primer instead, in this case yellow/greenish, or light grey.

 

The Psi varys all between 10-up to 18 sometimes higher depending on the job AND Paint (it need to atomize properly, Always look on the spray pattern around), i use a HS Evolutuin plus something and a HS Infinity, they fit my needs very well.

 

a note, i dont look at the preassure meter that much at all, i adjust the airpreassure when the "feel" is right, i test shot top side of my hand near the thumb and feel the preassure and paint flow, weird i know but it got to feel in a way that is right....lol o know but it works for me, Erik (Somnas) saw me do it, he said damn i do understand what you mean he said.

 

I Hope this anwers your question, and feel fre to ask more and ill explain as good as i can.

 

/Mal

Edited by Mal_Belford
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Allright....Sunday morning, Went up Abou 5,30 AM...haha couldnt sleep, so on with the Coffee, take a look....and many many hours later....

 

Finnished, touch up with graphite from a pen, went over the springs and wire...this will do just fine for me...Mals Way....

IMG_1693_zps6n7rwnwp.jpg

 

Front Engine cowling...just dryfitting, this one were inded time consuming due the real shallow details, so work, layer by layer, yes, also make that White look alive, more adjustements, im not done yet, yes Little dirt is a must so it creates Life and depth....

 

 

IMG_1697_zpstourbnpp.jpg

 

IMG_1698_zpsf2vnbd9m.jpg

 

/Mal

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